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View Full Version : Controversial Breakin Recommendation

Vettezuki
03-26-2011, 10:56 PM
Bottom line this fella says on modern engines with fine hones and very tight tolerances, the way to seat the rings very well is to run it hard early, not baby it. He explains more and gives detailed recommendations on procedures here:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
ZexGX
03-26-2011, 11:37 PM
That is more or less how I want my motor broken in... I have heard from many sources that high RPM when the motor is being run for the first few times is extremely important for a proper ring seal, and if it is not done then the motor will be plagued by compression and oil consumption issues until it gets a re-ring.
94cobra69ss396
03-26-2011, 11:54 PM
Seems to make sense. I know when I built the engine in the Cobra I took it easy for the first 500 miles and then took it to the dyno. It was 800 miles before I quit smelling oil burning.
Vettezuki
03-26-2011, 11:56 PM
Seems to make sense. I know when I built the engine in the Cobra I took it easy for the first 500 miles and then took it to the dyno. It was 800 miles before I quit smelling oil burning.

This has implications for the Snake as it has new rings, but a rough hone. I wonder which is best? Especially if we're blowing it to boot. Fortunately, we have time to contemplate this question. ;)
enkeivette
03-27-2011, 12:12 PM
I've read that. I think break in procedure is overrated. If you're breaking in a flat tappet cam, follow the rev procedure to avoid wiping a lobe. But as long as a roller motor is built properly, the rings probably break in once the motor gets up to operating temp.

I think people that have issues with break in, have issues with how the cylinder walls were finished, or ring install issues.
enkeivette
03-27-2011, 12:14 PM
I would agree with not using synthetic oil though. I think it works too good and doesn't allow the rings enough friction to seat properly. I had less oil consumption with my current set of rings and I broke them in with organic. Last set I broke in with Mobil 1.
Shaolin Crane
03-27-2011, 12:17 PM
Every engine my father and I have ever built have always been ran HARD right after they were done. I mean start it, let it run for a few minutes, change oil then go do a massive burnout or take it to the track or something, never had an issue.
94cobra69ss396
03-27-2011, 01:42 PM
Every engine my father and I have ever built have always been ran HARD right after they were done. I mean start it, let it run for a few minutes, change oil then go do a massive burnout or take it to the track or something, never had an issue.

That's the same with my dad. When we built the 396 in the Chevelle back when I was in high school the first thing after breaking in the cam he took it up the street and left a 300ft burnout. That engine had well over 200,000 miles on it when I pulled it out and I used to race it every Friday, Saturday and Sunday for about 3 years.
Shaolin Crane
03-27-2011, 02:03 PM
I babied ONE engine and it just never ran as hard as the other we would beat the shit out of, something just seemed "off" about it
blackax
03-27-2011, 03:05 PM
Ya thats the way my motor was broken in.
94cobra69ss396
03-27-2011, 09:59 PM
I took it easy on the Cobra and it seems to run well but the Chevelle I raced it right away and it also runs well.
Shaolin Crane
03-28-2011, 09:35 AM
Blowers make all things run well :D
injdinjn
03-28-2011, 12:38 PM
I have always used the "varied speed" method. I don't race it or baby it for the first 200 or so miles, but I take it out and getting to and from a place to do a couple of 80-100 mph blasts takes care of the "easy" driving.
Shaolin Crane
03-28-2011, 12:45 PM
Yah varied speed. Do 100mph then slow down for the turn, then do 100mph again :)
jedhead
03-28-2011, 06:19 PM
I always used a varied rpm method. I keep the engine running at different rpms for first 200 miles or so. Change the oil, then get the engine to operating temp and do some max power, max rpm runs. Some of the high performance engine come factory filled with Mobil 1 when new. I wonder how this applies with the too little friction theory.

Bob
Ryridesmotox
04-01-2011, 01:37 AM
Mine came with mobil1 in it from the factory... GM says to vary speed and take it easy... yea haha right... I didn't buy a fast GM tuner to take it easy. I beat the hell out of my car all the time and she takes it like a champ.
Kozak
04-02-2011, 05:18 AM
Mine came with mobil1 in it from the factory... GM says to vary speed and take it easy... yea haha right... I didn't buy a fast GM tuner to take it easy. I beat the hell out of my car all the time and she takes it like a champ.

You think you're so cool with your factory mobil 1, but you're not...*looks under hood*...I mean, me too. Mobil 1 is the best!:thumbs_up:
Damian
04-02-2011, 11:13 PM
I was always told to break it in the same way you normally drive it.
enkeivette
04-02-2011, 11:57 PM
Wot from 2k rpm to 4k rpm, allow to decelerate in gear till 2k. Repeat.
C5Natie
04-12-2011, 07:33 PM
I broke mine in hard as well. Didnt beat it up but gave a couple wot and drove it hard. Doesnt use any oil as of today 1yr later. Changed the oil at 1500mi and drove it normal..which is hard anyway. My friend builds lot of motors, old and new school. The first startup takes 15min with breaking oil. He then changes the oil, makes a couple 1/4mi passes, changes the oil again and drives it. No blowby or oil consumption issues. Running it hard early helps the rings expand and seal better. Babying the car just glazes over the cylinders and will always blow oil by. Good rings are important as well.