[enkeivette]

Holes welded shut, one grinded down, next step will be filler or glazing putty.


Tracing the spider veins with my dremel, next step, grinding a bigger groove, then filling with Fibertech reinforced filler.


Finished emblem holes, drivers fender, Fibertech.


Antenna hole, Vette Panel adhesive with Fiberglass matte underneath, next step Fibertech.


Crack in old molding job, grinding a groove, next step Fibertech.


Sanded, next step glazing putty.


Fiberteched, next step DA, then more Fibertech, then blocking...


This used to be a hole in my hood, it was a small hole, but the hood is really thin right here (SC pulley) so I spread the filler wide to give it some strength.


Decided to redo the old molding job with Fibertech.


...For those of you who are interested.

[enkeivette]

Tip:

After grinding out the spider veins I went over the area with laquer thinner to clean it off. I noticed about 10 cracks that I had missed because of the laquer thinner. After you wipe it on, it will highlight the hidden cracks for about 3 seconds.

[SeanPlunk]

Adam, I give you mad props for doing all that bodywork yourself

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by SeanPlunk

Adam, I give you mad props for doing all that bodywork yourself

I agree. Respect.

[enkeivette]

Thanks guys.

[SeanPlunk]

I have a stupid question. It looks like you had to grind quite a bit down in order to completely smooth everything out - does this mean you could only repaint a fiberglass car a few times before you'd actually have to start replacing body panels?

[enkeivette]

No, once the spider cracks are repaired they should be good, if it's done right there shouldn't be any need to repair them in the future. Sort of like a broken bone, the broken spot is actually stronger once it heals, and it may break again, but almost never in that same spot, if it heals right.

The bumper might crack in a different area in the future, but that's the nature of the beast. BTW, from what I can tell, SMC (factory body material post 73) does not have this problem. My rear bumper (aftermarket fiberglass, 82 style) does.

These are spider cracks, for those who aren't familiar:

[enkeivette]

Good news and bad news.

The good news: The lip of my bumper/spoiler is actually about an inch longer than I thought. The groove was covered by an inch of Bondo. The guys who did it must have been afraid of cracking. You can sort of see the huge mound of it in this pic. It makes sense to me that the rear end always looked wavy in the groove. There was so much freaking Bondo there's no wonder they couldn't get it straight.

I grinded a groove in areas where the the seam was exposed and replaced the Bondo with Fibertech. Hopefully it will hold up better than it did last time.

The bad news, I measured my bumper to be 4" long and I made the spoiler 7" long for a 3" overhang. Now that the bumper lip is about 5" long, the spoiler won't hang over enough to have a cool effect IMO. So I'll probably ditch it, or make a new one.

[Vettezuki]

Do what you think is cool in your opinion. Not much else matters.

[enkeivette]

Update:

I've taken off 98% of the original lacquer (white coat, sorry Steve my car looks less like a cow) and 75% of the original primer. Plan it to block off the rest of the primer, hopefully this will minimize blocking after the surfacer is sprayed on.

I've taken all of the Bondo off the rear end, and replaced it with Fibertech. Just need to go over one small spot and she'll be nice and smooth. I've also taken off nearly all of the Bondo and surfacer around the doors, front and back. 80% of it didn't need to be there, it was above the original surface. The guys who did body work on this car last had a love affair with Bondo.

Also, I reshaped the front quarter by the gills, it was repaired before and bowed out a bit too much. Doubt anyone would ever notice either way, but it makes me happy.