[BRIAN]

Originally Posted by big2bird

Your right about one thing. I think your theory is a load of crap.

Thanks, luckily it's not my theory, if it even is a theory anymore.

Originally Posted by big2bird

Can you point me to one case study that shows this is true, before I scan Ebay for the now highly desirable used tranny fluid?
Maybe I'll start manufacturing "pre-stressed" tranny fluid.

Find it yourself. If you see an article you want to read, before shelling out the cash try searching the document number on the net first. Might get lucky.
http://www.sae.org/servlets/SiteSear...pe=ALL&x=0&y=0

Originally Posted by joedls

You actually believe that a battery, with a less than full charge, will cause more drag on an engine because the alternator is "working harder"? I'm not a very bright guy, so you'd have to explain this to me very simply, because I don't understand. As far as I know, the alternator is being driven by a belt that is being turned by the crank. This is always happening while the engine is turning, except for those alternators that have a clutch pulley. But the engagement of the clutch pulley has nothing to do with the output required of the alternator. And, as far as I know, the alternator doesn't have any internal parts that make it drag more or less, depending on required output.

So again, I'm not very bright, so please explain this to me.

I'm not great at understanding electronics like conversions from one thing to another, magnetism,....yet but try this. Hop in you car and start it up. Turn on every accessory you have including head lights, dome lights, ect, hold the windows switches down even after they are already completely down and watch your RPM's VERY CLOSELY and INTENTLY. Depending on age you might be absorbing a measly hp. Try when it's warmed up though and idle is at opt temp specs.

It's best you actually witness the effects sometimes than reading some guys "crap."

[joedls]

Originally Posted by BRIAN

I'm not great at understanding electronics like conversions from one thing to another, magnetism,....yet but try this. Hop in you car and start it up. Turn on every accessory you have including head lights, dome lights, ect, hold the windows switches down even after they are already completely down and watch your RPM's VERY CLOSELY and INTENTLY. Depending on age you might be absorbing a measly hp. Try when it's warmed up though and idle is at opt temp specs.

It's best you actually witness the effects sometimes than reading some guys "crap."

There's absolutely no reason for me to do this. I know it will have no effect on my RPMs. The only accesories that will cause a drag on my engine are the AC (because of the clutch engagement) and the PS (if I turn the wheel). Do you actually believe this nonsense or are you just spewing something you read somewhere?

[BADDASSC6]

1) I have heard that switching to a lower viscosity fluid will free up horse power. I read magazine articles where they have switch to redline oil and then gained ~5hp on a dyno. Now if you "assume" that the horse power increase was due to reduced engine friction then the parallel can be made the increased fuel efficiency will be had by forcing the motor to do less work turning itself. I've never seen a trust worthy report proving this. Honestly if it fress up 5 hp on a 400 hp motor than that is an increase of 1.25%. Ratio that over to a car that gets 20 mpg then you should see a end 20.25 mpg. You will never see this.

2) The alternator drag issue. In order to generate an electrical current you need a conductor in a magnetic field with relative motion. Hence when you spin the magnets in an alternator it causes a current in the wires coiled around it. The problem is that now you have an electrical current in a magnetic field. That's how you create an electric motor. This is called counter torque. The counter torque is directly proportional to the magnitude of the current. So if the battery has a low charge then there will be a higher difference in the voltage potential (worded poorly) from the voltage source (alternator). That means that the magnitude of the current flow will be higher. Higher current means higher counter torque will be generated by the alternator. The energy source for the alternator is the mechanical energy generated by the motor. This higher load would be seen as decrease fuel efficiency. The reality is that the battery only holds ~14 volts and doesn't really cause that much of a load therefore effectively negligible. The ignition system and stereo are much bigger loads.

[BRIAN]

I reread the entire thread and I think I made it seem as if the benefits were great. They aren't. There fairly marginal. I'm a bit irritated now, not anyone's fault here just don't like arguing and getting on peoples bad side. I tried my best to avoid it. I won't continue on this anymore, so hopefully were all good here.

[BADDASSC6]

It's all good|

[BRUTAL64]

Just in the old days we used to use a Alt cut off switch to gain an extra 1/100 in the 1/4. Just something we used to do.

[joedls]

[big2bird]

Originally Posted by BRIAN

I'm not great at understanding electronics like conversions from one thing to another, magnetism,....

Allow me to help. 1 hp=735.6 watts/12volts=61.66 amperes.
An alternator draws "X" HP with no load. This is inertia load, fan, slip, etc.
For every 60 amperes of load, it will draw 1 additional hp, depending on speed /regulator output. The regulator determines the load, and varies the strength of the rotating field to regulate its output/hp requirement.
Since the alternator 'senses" the battery voltage, and regulates it to the required output, the battery would have to crank quite excessively to create a low enough voltage to require full output.
Therefore, according to your train of thought, we are talking fractional HP in your "quick start" scenario.

As for changing tranny fluid at 100,000 miles, my tranny guys encourage that. 90% of their work is from burnt/ broken down fluid. They say "Go for it."

[enkeivette]

Whether or not additives take time to have an effect, the length of time the oil is working at operating temp will determine how long it has to live. Therefore even if the additives are just kicking in, the oil itself is degrading. Therefore, changing it out sooner is better. I care more about the oil lubricating moving parts and being clean and debris free as it travels through the valvebody, than I do about additives. That the trans WOULD otherwise work without.

P.S. Bird you know nothing of electricity.

[big2bird]

Originally Posted by BRIAN

I reread the entire thread and I think I made it seem as if the benefits were great. They aren't. There fairly marginal. I'm a bit irritated now, not anyone's fault here just don't like arguing and getting on peoples bad side. I tried my best to avoid it. I won't continue on this anymore, so hopefully were all good here.

Brian,
It's all good. I am somewhat of an automobile historian. There have been claims and hype since the auto was invented, and I am from the "test of time" school.