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Old 01-06-2009, 10:34 PM   #61
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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I think this looks better overall, but I prefer the font in the first rendition. This one looks pretty cartoony.
You're cartoony.

Ya, I agree, a more serious font would do the trick. I did it by hand because I had a hard time finding an R that was thick enough to be a snakes tail.
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Old 01-07-2009, 01:06 AM   #62
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Flares, not what I was thinking, but possible.

I definitely prefer this style of flare to the standard skirt. Let's have some style.
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Old 01-07-2009, 01:09 AM   #63
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I'd kinda like to make glass replicas of the bumpers and customize them to be more flat and hang lower to the ground. Nothing fancy, just more Nascar like. That would definitely be a process though, because I would be venturing into new waters, deep waters. But I'm sure I could make it happen given enough time.


I like this idea. I'll support you however I can and we can begin soon. Check the development phases in the main thread. I'm trying to keep the whole project within six months.
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Old 01-07-2009, 01:30 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by keithc View Post
I think this looks better overall, but I prefer the font in the first rendition. This one looks pretty cartoony.
Gettin warmer, minus the R now being black. But Adam will fix it.

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Old 01-09-2009, 12:18 AM   #65
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well guys if you decide with anything from House of Kolor I can get you a great price on everything from paints sandpaper and all that fun stuff.
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Old 01-09-2009, 01:56 AM   #66
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well guys if you decide with anything from House of Kolor I can get you a great price on everything from paints sandpaper and all that fun stuff.
enkeivette, who's the lead on the body/paint may be talking to you. We'll see how the budget shakes out in the next couple months.
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:06 AM   #67
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I've been thinking about this, if we don't need a paint job that will last 20 years on this car, it would be best not to strip this thing down to bare metal/ plastic. (Just in the places that it needs to be, for body work).

Skipping this step will allow us to save many hours stripping (and dollars on sand paper and chemical strippers), and more importantly it will allow us to skip the primer surfacer phase (which will save another $100, more sand paper, and many, many more hours guide coat/ block sanding). I vote to feather edge scratches and simply scuff the factory paint with 400 (maybe cover with epoxy if funds allow) or maybe 600 if we dont prime and take down only the places to receive body work to bare metal. This will save A LOT of time.

Fender flares! There are a few routes. If someone wants to cough up $150 for these:
We can do it the easy way, I would outline where they are to be mounted, cut the metal fenders off the car, and glue/ screw/ mold these in place. (I should have enough of that $50 glue left to do this) This will buy us about 2 1/2" of track width, not very much. Or, I could space these out, and fill in the gap with glass, then mold them in transition smothly. (Unless these are bolt on replacements, that would be too easy.)

Or we could do it the hard way. I was thinking that I could lay some foam on the car, and cut away till we get the shape that we like. Then lay out a set of our own in glass, cut away the metal, bond them in place, and spend lots of time with filler shaping them to get it looking good. This will obviously take A LOT longer, but we would be able to make them as wide as we want and I should be able to do it for about $40 (Since I should have enough resin already).
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Old 01-14-2009, 08:11 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
I've been thinking about this, if we don't need a paint job that will last 20 years on this car, it would be best not to strip this thing down to bare metal/ plastic. (Just in the places that it needs to be, for body work).

Skipping this step will allow us to save many hours stripping (and dollars on sand paper and chemical strippers), and more importantly it will allow us to skip the primer surfacer phase (which will save another $100, more sand paper, and many, many more hours guide coat/ block sanding). I vote to feather edge scratches and simply scuff the factory paint with 400 (maybe cover with epoxy if funds allow) or maybe 600 if we dont prime and take down only the places to receive body work to bare metal. This will save A LOT of time.
In principle this is fine with me. There are a couple spots where the body is down to bare metal. Most notably the passenger front quarter panel because of something I did. Would a little bare metal here and there cause any problems to using this strategy?

Instead of a 20 year quality paint job, would this be a good 5 year durabilty? How about other issues like final finish? Could it still be color sanded to at least slightly better than OEM orange peel?

BTW, what bout touch ups on pearl paint job. I'm thinking maybe to just go with a flat arctic white and candy letters. THe pearl would look great, but this car is gonna see a lot of action and I'm wondering how that pearl is going to look if it needs to be touched up several times. Or is it candy that's near impossible to match, I get confused.



Quote:
Fender flares! There are a few routes. If someone wants to cough up $150 for these:
We can do it the easy way, I would outline where they are to be mounted, cut the metal fenders off the car, and glue/ screw/ mold these in place. (I should have enough of that $50 glue left to do this) This will buy us about 2 1/2" of track width, not very much. Or, I could space these out, and fill in the gap with glass, then mold them in transition smothly. (Unless these are bolt on replacements, that would be too easy.)
In the pic these look fine, though if we go with a fuel cell instead of stock tank, I'd like to glass over the filler cap. An extra 2.5 inches track on each side should be plenty. I imagine something like a 255 - 275 max width. No need for anything wider on a 10 second car with this weight as far as I understand.

Quote:
Or we could do it the hard way. I was thinking that I could lay some foam on the car, and cut away till we get the shape that we like. Then lay out a set of our own in glass, cut away the metal, bond them in place, and spend lots of time with filler shaping them to get it looking good. This will obviously take A LOT longer, but we would be able to make them as wide as we want and I should be able to do it for about $40 (Since I should have enough resin already).
Probably I'd prefer to use the off the shelf flares, then spend a little extra time on the idea you had for the front and rear bumper. I think that would have lot more visual impact.
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Old 01-15-2009, 01:57 AM   #69
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Pearl are almost impossible to touch up, candies are worse. The best way to do it is to sand down the entire panel, mask the rest of the car, and touch up the base, blend the pearl, then re-clear. If you want to do it, we should do it, have no fear.

The problem with taking it down to bare metal is that we will wave the body, this will need to be reconciled with high build surfacer and careful block sanding. If you only scuff the factory finish, it is not an issue. We can just pay attention to getting the body work straight.

If you really want to take it down to the substrate, we can do it and the paint will last longer, much longer, but expect to spend at least another 3 weeks with 3 or 4 guys working on it. You could also try media blasting. I'm not so sure how this works, and if it will require surfacer afterwards, I can find out. But I have no experience with this.
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Old 01-15-2009, 02:14 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
Pearl are almost impossible to touch up, candies are worse. The best way to do it is to sand down the entire panel, mask the rest of the car, and touch up the base, blend the pearl, then re-clear. If you want to do it, we should do it, have no fear.

The problem with taking it down to bare metal is that we will wave the body, this will need to be reconciled with high build surfacer and careful block sanding. If you only scuff the factory finish, it is not an issue. We can just pay attention to getting the body work straight.

If you really want to take it down to the substrate, we can do it and the paint will last longer, much longer, but expect to spend at least another 3 weeks with 3 or 4 guys working on it. You could also try media blasting. I'm not so sure how this works, and if it will require surfacer afterwards, I can find out. But I have no experience with this.

Thanks for the additional info. See my post about registration in the main thread. It looks like this will be a trailer queen. Please talk to your buddy and see exactly what he did.

I'm leaning towards scuff the paint and go with a non-pearl solid color with candy letters for this project. The next (yes, there will be more) maybe we could step it up with going down to the body and doing a more extravagant paint job. I think I'd like to use those off the shelf flares. But would, if you are down, go after the redone bumpers. I think this is focusing on a strong but manageable challenge. This is going to involve you A LOT, what do think of that direction?
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