[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by BADDASSC6

Let me out it this way. C6 and c5 vettes have 50/50 distribution, but the run a 245 front with a 295 rear. Steady rate. Cornering the car pushes. As far as race cars and what's ideal there are a lot of other factors. In F1 engine packaging and aerodynamics dominate. Those cars are so light that the driver is a significant mass. They car more about overall weight and packaging. The tightest corners they are still doing 90mph. Aero is always in play. I red a great article about the development of carbon fiber transmission housings. They were lighter than the magnesium units, but the cars were already running ballast to make weight. The big gain was that the magnesium units got soft at something like 300c. They CF ones can run hotter which allowed them to use smaller heat exchangers. This resulted in a big top end gain and a big gain in fuel efficiency. The best advice I ever heard was to look at what the competive guysare running. GT cars have much more room for design levity and this you see much more varing competitive cars. In gt2 we see mid engine ferraris fighting with ass happy 911s fr M3 and Big bore Corvettes having very tight battles in long 24hr races. Ultimately you can make anything work. Vary tire sizes componds, suspension tuning, wings whatever. The key is to get out there and see what works.

Or hire somebody who knows what they're doing from experience.

[enkeivette]

I leave for two days and there are a thousand pages to read. I'm bored with this, did Carlos say 50 50 for front engine rear drive or what?

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

I leave for two days and there are a thousand pages to read. I'm bored with this, did Carlos say 50 50 for front engine rear drive or what?

Carlos said.

[BRUTAL64]

Originally Posted by Vettezuki

Betcha it's Twin Turbo (Marck) over in Europeland. BTW, the Guldstrand 5 Link is basically the same setup for C2/3 as the C4 suspension. In fact, as the story goes, GM got it from him practically over lunch. This is something I seriously consider for down the road.

Very impressive hardware. I really want to talk to Dick before he's gone. I have talked to his son a number of times. Want to take a trip out there?

[BRUTAL64]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

I leave for two days and there are a thousand pages to read. I'm bored with this, did Carlos say 50 50 for front engine rear drive or what?

Read my son and learn..........

[enkeivette]

Originally Posted by Vettezuki

Carlos said.

I read that, it's not a direct answer. It means, it depends. And since the Americans have been able to produce front engine rear drive cars that can keep up with and even pass up the exotics, the 50/50 must not be an accident.

Regardless, your C3 oversteers, if it's anything like mine. And adding weight in the back is going to make that worse. I'm over this now. Fin.

[Ultraperio]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

I read that, it's not a direct answer. It means, it depends. And since the Americans have been able to produce front engine rear drive cars that can keep up with and even pass up the exotics, the 50/50 must not be an accident.

Regardless, your C3 oversteers, if it's anything like mine. And adding weight in the back is going to make that worse. I'm over this now. Fin.

It also came out in this thread that the C2/3's overteer due to rear suspension geometry changes causing toe out.

[BADDASSC6]

Adam,
here is what I would do:
- research the c3 suspension and see if they are any major faults that cause the over steering. A good example of this would be the older mustang LCAs. They would flex them bins under load causing snap over steer. A simple parts swap would get you 90 percent there.
- next get the car corner balanced and try to get as close to 50/50 as possible. You cand do this by jacking up on corner and forcing it to carry more load.
-Then take the car for a ride with a friend that can drive. Maybe Ron. I'm not saying you can drive, but it helps to have someone with some track time there to make sure that the problem isn't a driver input issue.
Set your air pressure at 32 to start. Take it on a windy cruise. Every 20 minutes measure you tire pressure. When hot bleed them both to 36. Then adjust the pressure to make the car handle neutral. Go in half pound increments. Try to stay between 32 and 36. If you need to vary the pressure my more than 2# front to back then its time to start making other adjustments to sway bars or shifting weight. Easier still is to play with the tire sizes. If you can get your hands on a Pyrometer with a probe then you are money. I like to measure the temps in the inner center and outer part of the tire to make sure I'm using the whole contact patch. Also I check to ensure that the tires are getting to the manufacturers recommended temperature operating band. This way I know that In getting the most out of my tires. So I will go as far to say that is is best to start as close to 50/50.

[enkeivette]

I know about the toe out, when the halfshaft move above the 90 degree mark, and continues to compress, the wheel moves up the arc, pulling the back of the trailing arms in, causing toe out. If the car is high enough, compressing will result in toe in which is what you want. (The shaft will move up the arc approacing 90 degrees, pushing the arm out.)

I had my alignment guy set the car with toe in with this in mind. And my suspension is so damn stiff, I don't see it compressing all that much anyways. My car will slide before it dips too much. I've never noticed a problem with the geometry issue personally, after I lowered it to the point that it was technically an issue.

Carlos, thanks for the info. I'll keep those numbers in mind. As far as the oversteer is concerned, I like a little bit. I prefer it over understeer. And I'm no pro, as you know. My car can out perform my abilities as a driver both in a straight line and around a corner. So I'm really not too worried about it. It's fun for me, that's all I'm after.

That and proving to Ben that he's wrong. Hahahaha.

[enkeivette]

Originally Posted by BADDASSC6

Adam,
here is what I would do:
- research the c3 suspension and see if they are any major faults that cause the over steering. A good example of this would be the older mustang LCAs. They would flex them bins under load causing snap over steer. A simple parts swap would get you 90 percent there.
- next get the car corner balanced and try to get as close to 50/50 as possible. You cand do this by jacking up on corner and forcing it to carry more load.
-Then take the car for a ride with a friend that can drive. Maybe Ron. I'm not saying you can drive, but it helps to have someone with some track time there to make sure that the problem isn't a driver input issue.
Set your air pressure at 32 to start. Take it on a windy cruise. Every 20 minutes measure you tire pressure. When hot bleed them both to 36. Then adjust the pressure to make the car handle neutral. Go in half pound increments. Try to stay between 32 and 36. If you need to vary the pressure my more than 2# front to back then its time to start making other adjustments to sway bars or shifting weight. Easier still is to play with the tire sizes. If you can get your hands on a Pyrometer with a probe then you are money. I like to measure the temps in the inner center and outer part of the tire to make sure I'm using the whole contact patch. Also I check to ensure that the tires are getting to the manufacturers recommended temperature operating band. This way I know that In getting the most out of my tires. So I will go as far to say that is is best to start as close to 50/50.

Being this hardcore I take it you're running some of those 3K mile tires on the street?