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12-25-2008, 02:53 PM
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#21
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird
. . .thinner compatible with alkaloids.
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You mean like a battery?  Got it. Thanx for the clarification.
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(back burner)
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12-25-2008, 06:47 PM
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#22
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Heart Attack
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 86
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Thanks Bird,i knew there was a good explanation for it (read it somewhere once) but for the life of me,i could not remember  |
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12-25-2008, 06:55 PM
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#23
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,850
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Here's the reasoning behind the sealer (reduced epoxy primer) that I got from the autobody forums.
The primer will go on "clumpy" and the sealer will go on nice and even. Better to shoot over. So I guess shooting over a sealer will yield a more glass like appearance in the end.
Guess I've got some more sanding to do. 
__________________
I <3 forced induction.
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12-25-2008, 07:05 PM
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#24
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Heart Attack
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 86
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I thought you were supposed to put the sealer on first then primer 
or maybe it was sealer,primer,sealer shit,i better do some more research because thats where i'm at now with my re-paint. |
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12-25-2008, 11:04 PM
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#25
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,850
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Not what I've been told, but it's not going to hurt anything.
I've been told, epoxy, the surfacer, then glaze & sand, then spot prime & sand, then seal...
I skipped the first step. I didn't see the need for an epoxy base, seeing as how I went to bare SMC & the surfacer that I used is a polyester surfacer.
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I <3 forced induction.
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12-26-2008, 11:07 AM
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#26
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Power's off.
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
Not what I've been told, but it's not going to hurt anything.
I've been told, epoxy, the surfacer, then glaze & sand, then spot prime & sand, then seal...
I skipped the first step. I didn't see the need for an epoxy base, seeing as how I went to bare SMC & the surfacer that I used is a polyester surfacer.
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The largest amount of product in what you are doing is elbow grease.
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Chrome don't get you home.
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12-26-2008, 07:34 PM
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#27
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Heart Attack
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
Not what I've been told, but it's not going to hurt anything.
I've been told, epoxy, the surfacer, then glaze & sand, then spot prime & sand, then seal...
I skipped the first step. I didn't see the need for an epoxy base, seeing as how I went to bare SMC & the surfacer that I used is a polyester surfacer.
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Ok i think you and I are on the same wave length here but have a different terminology for the products.
Except for the GLAZE & Sand,what are you doing here  i have not herd of the Glaze,can you explain what it is 
Remember i am a NOOB at this  |
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12-27-2008, 08:12 AM
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#28
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Power's off.
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwplot34
Ok i think you and I are on the same wave length here but have a different terminology for the products.
Except for the GLAZE & Sand,what are you doing here i have not herd of the Glaze,can you explain what it is
Remember i am a NOOB at this |
Spot glaze is a tube of putty that requires no hardner(Aerobic). It is only good for pinholes and such. Zero strength.
__________________
Chrome don't get you home.
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12-27-2008, 11:09 AM
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#29
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Heart Attack
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird
Spot glaze is a tube of putty that requires no hardner(Aerobic). It is only good for pinholes and such. Zero strength.
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OK,i have that, tube called Icing,but it does require a hardener. |
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12-29-2008, 09:25 AM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwplot34
OK,i have that, tube called Icing,but it does require a hardener.
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im guessing he is taling about a spot putty like this
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