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08-02-2013, 02:39 AM
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#21
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Made a little video. I looped it and did some EQ to partially isolate the noise, it is most obvious around 1:43. Almost sounds like a diesel valve train.
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08-02-2013, 05:59 PM
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#22
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Fast & Filthy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,840
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That sounds like a rod knock to me.
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08-02-2013, 06:02 PM
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#23
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396
That sounds like a rod knock to me.
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Problem?
Cause?
Solution?
It did start happening on my way home the other night shortly during/after a WOT romp.
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08-02-2013, 06:11 PM
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#24
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Fast & Filthy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,840
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Get a broom handle if you don't have a stethoscope, cut it down a little and use it to listen at the oil pan.
Numerous things can cause a rod knock but the most common I guess would be a loose rod bolt.
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08-02-2013, 07:20 PM
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#25
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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Or use a long handle screw driver. Ron is right, loose rod bolt, spun bearings, etc.
Also sounds like cam knock, which the LS series are notorious for.
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him
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08-02-2013, 07:27 PM
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#26
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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So probably loose bolt(s) and worn bearings is what I'm looking at minimally. Anything involving the cam means pulling the engine. If I go that far, I'd probably do a bunch of things, like a typical car idiot. . .
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08-02-2013, 08:28 PM
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#27
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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Not even worn bearings really, at least not with the cam Dick was telling me that he's seen factory stock engine with as much as .010 Gap on the bearings.
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him
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08-02-2013, 10:54 PM
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#28
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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The only things I heard from this engine before were a little piston slap during warm up and a little "typewriter" sound from the valve train. Pretty smooth otherwise. That's why this stuck out.
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08-03-2013, 01:18 AM
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#29
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Fast & Filthy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,840
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Listen with a broom handle, stethoscope, screwdriver and see if you can determine where the sound is coming from. I don't know anything about the LS cam issue but if it's a rod knocking it will be the loudest under a heavy load. Since you have a manual trans the only way to load the engine is by driving it. Just get out on the main street and put it in third at a lower rpm and give it some throttle. If it's a rod issue it will rattle loud.
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08-03-2013, 02:12 AM
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#30
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396
Listen with a broom handle, stethoscope, screwdriver and see if you can determine where the sound is coming from. I don't know anything about the LS cam issue but if it's a rod knocking it will be the loudest under a heavy load. Since you have a manual trans the only way to load the engine is by driving it. Just get out on the main street and put it in third at a lower rpm and give it some throttle. If it's a rod issue it will rattle loud.
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I can tell that's exactly the kind of conditions under which it makes the most noise. Coming home on the freeway when I first heard it I slowed down a bit and tried to cost and just nudge it. Whenever nudging it would get louder, when costing it didn't make any sound.
I'll try to double confirm with a stethoscope that it's coming from the pan area. Assuming that's it, I guess this is a matter of draining the oil (needs an oil change anyway thankfully) and removing the pan to see the rod connections to the crank.
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