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10-17-2011, 04:20 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,557
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No suitable connector in my books. Checked A/C Delco and Motorcraft. All the ones they show are to low of a amp rating.
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10-17-2011, 04:41 PM
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#12
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdracer73
No suitable connector in my books. Checked A/C Delco and Motorcraft. All the ones they show are to low of a amp rating.
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Thanks for your help Saturday and thanks for looking.
So it's bone yard or solder I guess. I'm trying to rememeber this place near buena park which handles all kinds of custom wiring and connectors. I'll also hit up Zac at Speed Scene Wiring to see what he's got.
BTW, what kind of amps we talking here?
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10-17-2011, 05:03 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
Thanks for your help Saturday and thanks for looking.
BTW, what kind of amps we talking here?
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Not sure , was just going off the size of the wires and spades in them.
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I drive a hybrid, It burns gas and rubber..
Alcohol Tobacco & Firearms should be a convenience store, not a government agency.
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10-17-2011, 06:07 PM
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#14
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,850
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I had this exact issue. After screwing around with the multimeter, wasting a good amount of time, I discovered the negative battery cable connector was corroded, and it wasn't grounding sufficiently for the amperage draw when you crank the starter.
Do your lights go dim when you turn the key, trying to crank it?
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I <3 forced induction.
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10-17-2011, 06:53 PM
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#15
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
I had this exact issue. After screwing around with the multimeter, wasting a good amount of time, I discovered the negative battery cable connector was corroded, and it wasn't grounding sufficiently for the amperage draw when you crank the starter.
Do your lights go dim when you turn the key, trying to crank it?
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Haven't checked that. The reason we think it's right at the connector is that when we take it out of the equation, the starter has 0% trouble triggering.
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10-17-2011, 08:16 PM
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#16
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,850
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At the starter connector? Sure it's not the fusible links?
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I <3 forced induction.
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10-17-2011, 08:41 PM
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#17
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
At the starter connector? Sure it's not the fusible links?
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No. Harness in the engine bay. Big old connector spliced from the main harness to a sub harness including the line to the solenoid on the starter.
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10-17-2011, 08:42 PM
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#18
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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From ls1z28, who did most of the real swap and harness work.
Quote:
The place you are looking for is M&H electric in santa fe springs. It would be the starter jumper harness that you are looking for.
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10-21-2011, 03:45 PM
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#19
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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M&H only makes and sells harnesses not connectors.
So I went to J&D and while I was able to locate used male and female connectors from the parts bin and bone yard, they wanted $80 for the pair. Balls to that, so I called up Zac at Speed Scene Wiring in TX. They're the ones who made my custom harness. He's pretty sure he has them new and will check on Monday after I send him some pics. Shipped $25-35 for the pair. That's more reasonable!
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10-22-2011, 01:49 AM
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#20
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That's Mr. Bitch to you.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,265
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Supply and demand you would pay it if it was your daily driver and you needed it to get to work. But since you don't drive it every day you can save your self some coin and get it from Texas. Good deal hope it fixes your problem. If not try the big 3...
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P.S. Fuck Apple.
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