[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by jedhead

If you are experiencing oil starvation, a cheaper alternative to a dry sump would be a Accusump. You can use the Accusump to preoil the engine at start up too.

Bob

Cool I didn't know anything about the Accusump.

[BADDASSC6]

Originally Posted by SeanPlunk

Stupid question, but what would cause a rod end bolt or wrist pin to fail? Is it just wear and tear?

Every part in your motor has existing cracks. Dont care how is was manufactured if it's been heat treated polished what ever. You can stress the parts to the point where the cracks will grow, but the entire part will not fail. As the cracks grow over time the parts will weaken until the bottom end grenades. They call it the KIC curve and it shows what stress you need to stay under to prevent the crack from propegating. SAE states that it a part can survive 10^6 cycles at the maximum load then the part will last "forever".

This is why in drag racing they say a a LS2 is good for ~550 rwhp. I ws 90 rwhp down, but I had 3 seasons of racing.

Sean,
If I took option 3 I would be in the same spot, but I don't think I will be racing much in the next 3 years. Cruising Honalulu will not stress the motor the same.

[BRIAN]

Originally Posted by BADDASSC6

Cruising Honalulu will not stress the motor the same.

Sounds like a good time though.

[BRUTAL64]

Originally Posted by BADDASSC6

Every part in your motor has existing cracks. Dont care how is was manufactured if it's been heat treated polished what ever. You can stress the parts to the point where the cracks will grow, but the entire part will not fail. As the cracks grow over time the parts will weaken until the bottom end grenades. They call it the KIC curve and it shows what stress you need to stay under to prevent the crack from propegating. SAE states that it a part can survive 10^6 cycles at the maximum load then the part will last "forever".

This is why in drag racing they say a a LS2 is good for ~550 rwhp. I ws 90 rwhp down, but I had 3 seasons of racing.

Sean,
If I took option 3 I would be in the same spot, but I don't think I will be racing much in the next 3 years. Cruising Honalulu will not stress the motor the same.

Were the rod bolts intact?

[jedhead]

When I did some rebuilds in the past I had magnafluxed the block, heads, caps, crank and rods to check for those cracks to see if any of those items needs to be replaced. The machine shops that did the machining and balancing did the checks for me.

Bob

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by jedhead

When I did some rebuilds in the past I had magnafluxed the block, heads, caps, crank and rods to check for those cracks to see if any of those items needs to be replaced. The machine shops that did the machining and balancing did the checks for me.

Bob

Magnaflux no worky so well on aluminum. Also, I think Carlos is referring to micro-cracks.

[BADDASSC6]

Brutal: I don't know yet. The only info that I have recieved was about the holes. They are pulling the heads off and I'm expecting them to determine the mode of failure.

I was refering to micro cracks in all materials. Magnaflux is a great form of non-destructive testing. I've never really done any of it with my cars because there are never any usable parts left when I'm done with it. I have used similar stuff at work. Our machinist mates ( I was one in my enlisted days) are also our welders and a few of them had to maintain a high enough level of certification.

[jedhead]

Originally Posted by Vettezuki

Magnaflux no worky so well on aluminum. Also, I think Carlos is referring to micro-cracks.

Kinda gave away how long ago my last rebuild was.

Bob

[BRUTAL64]

Originally Posted by BADDASSC6

Brutal: I don't know yet. The only info that I have recieved was about the holes. They are pulling the heads off and I'm expecting them to determine the mode of failure.

I have found 90% of rods causing massive damage was due to rod bolt stretch--bolt stretches nuts loosens then boom.