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Old 01-25-2010, 06:29 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BADDASSC6 View Post
This reminds me of the late 1990's when all the single turbo Poopra's were running around with wiggings clamps on there radiator hoses. I agree with Brian. I thing you have a blown head gasket. If it was the rings then you would be burning oil, but you wouldn't be getting all the water. The good thing is that a head gasket would be cheaper to fix. If it's the rings then you'll problably have to get the block honed.

On the flip side, it's a great oppurtunity to upgrade!
thats one thing I'm afraid of. paying for a new motor isn't exhaust my cup o tea right now.

Gonna look at different possibilities tonight and tomorrow to at least address the misfire, then find out about the head gasket and order one (found 40% discounts from factory mopar parts ftw)
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
Catalytic converters convert NOX & Hydrocarbons into CO2 & WATER. A blown HG is not going to allow the piston to suck up enough water to notice it shooting out your tailpipe. It will burn up and steam out... gets pretty hot in there.

If you have milkshakey oil, then you have a blown HG. If you have water coming out your tailpipe, it only means that your car was made after 1974.

If your motor is burning oil, could be rings. But at 90K I doubt it. If your valvecover leaks oil onto the exhaust manifold, it could seap in through the gasket and burn out the tailpipe. Happened with my L48 motor. Does the smoke go away once it's up to operating temp?

Replace your cam sensor with a new one before you try to diagnose the misfire. Those are easy to replace.
thanks for the input, i'll check the gasket and oil cap. it's oil blackened water thats coming out not clear water. pretty nasty lookin stuff.

I'll check on the operating temp, kinda don't wanna run it that long on a misfire, is that ok?? lol i really need to protect this from getting any worse.

ok... game plan is

step 1 = camshaft position sensor
step 2 = crackshaft position sensor
step 3 = wires
step 4 = coil pack
step 5 = injectors

compression test on cylinders 1-4

kdracer73, do you also have a cooling system pressure tester? im starting to have tons of hand tools but all this other stuff not yet lol.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:50 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by BlacknBoostn View Post
kdracer73, do you also have a cooling system pressure tester? im starting to have tons of hand tools but all this other stuff not yet lol.
Mine is broken I am mooching one from a co-worker when I need it.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:03 PM   #14
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The water will be dirty, your exhaust pipes are dirty. I had two badly blown rings on a HG in my Vette. And my motor moves a lot more air than your motor, I never saw water coming out of the tailpipe. Trust me, water out the tailpipe means nothing.

Steam out the tailpipe once the motor is warm might, however.
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:05 PM   #15
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You're noticing the water now because of the other issues, and you're paranoid about having a blown HG.

It's like hearing the hiss from the brake booster after you replace it. It was always there, people just freak out when they have a reason to.

Not saying your HG isn't blown btw.
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:42 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
You're noticing the water now because of the other issues, and you're paranoid about having a blown HG.

It's like hearing the hiss from the brake booster after you replace it. It was always there, people just freak out when they have a reason to.

Not saying your HG isn't blown btw.
ok point taken, i'll chill till i can better diagnose it. just never seen it like that before lol i'm pretty observant about my car lol. Doin the comp test tomorrow probably the am.
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Old 01-26-2010, 12:25 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by BlacknBoostn View Post
ok point taken, i'll chill till i can better diagnose it. just never seen it like that before lol i'm pretty observant about my car lol. Doin the comp test tomorrow probably the am.
Should all be within 10psi, but for a newer motor like yours I'd be surprised if they were out by more than 5psi. Have someone stand on the gas as you crank it to keep the throttle open. Crank it till the guage maxes out.
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Old 01-26-2010, 03:53 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
Should all be within 10psi, but for a newer motor like yours I'd be surprised if they were out by more than 5psi. Have someone stand on the gas as you crank it to keep the throttle open. Crank it till the guage maxes out.
Is it a mechanical throttle? If it's fly by wire, like most modern cars, I don't think the plate will be open all the way even if you stand on the gas.
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Old 01-26-2010, 02:47 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Vettezuki View Post
Is it a mechanical throttle? If it's fly by wire, like most modern cars, I don't think the plate will be open all the way even if you stand on the gas.
It's a mechanical throttle. Like most modern cars.
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Old 01-26-2010, 05:16 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
It's a mechanical throttle. Like most modern cars.
ummm.. by mechanical you mean i'd physically be able to hold the throttle cable with my finger from the bay right?

if so then yah, it's electrical. Thats one of the things i had to rewire a few months ago...

ok... results

ok ran a compression test... all cylinders were consistent w/n 5psi for each test.

cylinder 1-4 was at about 110 for 3 tests of 5-7 revolutions.

on each test it was a low or a high spike (not more than a 5 psi variance) on initial crank for only 1 or two revolutions, after that the remaining revolutions were consistent so i think those can be excused. call it 110 across the board i think.

Problem is getting a misfire code for c#4, and a camshaft position sensor code.

at this point i'm thinking my piston rings are prob. ok, and i should be more concerned about the head gasket.

input?

I don't know if this is "low" compression for my car, i'm trying to figure that out.

Enkei, pulled off the oil cap and on the cap itself there appeared to be a silver milky substance. couldn't see any of that ANYWHERE else tho, even on the metal below the cap.

U were right about the oil/water i think. happened on start up for a few minutes, then got to operating temperature and stopped smoking and dripping.

my buddy will be here a little later to help me troubleshoot.
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Mods: Coilovers, Mopar CAI, Maxxfab o2, catless DP w/ Borla exhaust...

Best ET 14.668 see timeslip
Mods to come: rims + rubber, intercooler, piping, Stage 3 equivelent turbo system with aftermarket turbo and all supporting systems. Goal HP: 400fwhp Goal ET: 11.90 on slicks.

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I'd race ya, but you'd eat me up dawg!!!
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