I did a compression test on cylinder 4 to see if it was still low after cooling down and it registered 130. So I pulled the head so I could take a look at the cylinder wall. It actually doesn't look all that bad however, I pulled the whole engine and I'm going to check the rings to make sure none are broke. I'm also going to pick up Phil's bore gauge to make sure the cylinders are not out of round.

After I pulled the heads I checked to make sure all the valves were sealing and every single one of them leaks. I don't know who did the valve job on them but there is just no way that the overheating caused all of them to leak. I'll have to pull all the valves and lap them.

Here's how the car looks now.

I'm thinking..if it was mine...do the WHOLE engine over ....new bearings, rings and mic everything.

You did not let the cam idle at all ----right?

The condition of the bores and pistons should be good...?

That sucks

I never let it idle, as soon as it fired I brought it up to 2000 rpms to break in the cam and I set the idle screw there to hold it while I looked for leaks. It ran for about 15 minutes and I usually run it there for 20 to 25 minutes. Do you think 15 minutes is enough to break the cam in or do you think we should still break in the cam the next time we fire it up?

The pistons all look good and so do the cylinder walls but I'm waiting to hear back from my brother about his bore gauge to check the shape. I'm not going to work on it today but I'll probably take a look at the bearings tomorrow as well as the rings on cylinder 4 and give you guys an update on it.

An investment of around $150 will get him new GOOD rings and VERY GOOD bearings. Just a thought.


Yes....do treat the cam as needing to be broke in....You need lots of oil on the cam at start up...just to be safe...15 minute break in is usually OK..but with the way things have been going ....better to be safe than sorry.

I know you know this..oil with ZINC.



At least when you guys have the engine back together...you will know it is good.:judge:

We added a bottle of Comp ZDDP oil additive.

Good bearings cost a hell of a lot more than $150. The bearings in the race motor were about $200 per set. Rings weren't cheap either.

I'm going to take a look at them and see how they look.

Clevite 77 and Single Molly rings come to about 150....depends on the place you get them from ...yes you can spend more but not always needed.:judge:

You probably know this already..but just for shits and giggles...check to make sure the bearings are steel backed and not alum back cheap asses.:p