[Vettezuki]

Hey enkeivette, how long do you think it would take to remove a T56 from a C3? Mine no worky

[enkeivette]

I pulled mine out and put it back in, in one afternoon. Sucks without a lift, had to drop it on my chest, crunched my cell phone in the process. But it wasn't so bad, I'd rather pull my trans than swap those pedals or do a heater core.

And remember to pull the clutch fork. If you don't the trans won't slide out. If you need some help give me a call.

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

I pulled mine out and put it back in, in one afternoon. Sucks without a lift, had to drop it on my chest, crunched my cell phone in the process. But it wasn't so bad, I'd rather pull my trans than swap those pedals or do a heater core.

And remember to pull the clutch fork. If you don't the trans won't slide out. If you need some help give me a call.

You'll be getting a call. BTW, clutch fork? I thought you had a hydraulic Slave . . .

[enkeivette]

Ohhh... that's right, you have the hydraulic throw out bearing. I do have a hydraulic slave, but it's a cylinder that pushes a clutch fork. The LT1 T56s use a fork while the LS1 T56s use a throw out bearing. That is basically the only difference between the two. Nevermind then.

[SeanPlunk]

I still think it had to be some kind of defect to just break like that, but what do I know. I think Brian's friend has a lift and he might be willing to let you use it. I'll have to ask him.

[enkeivette]

Also, you're going to want to support the oil pan before you try to pull the trans. Allow it to drop a little to get a useable angle, but you don't want the motor pushing down on the input shaft as you try to pull it out.

And I found that with this trans it's easier to remove the bellhousing from the engine rather than leaving the bellhousing bolted to the engine. It's tough to get to the bellhousing to trans bolts.

You should also remove the driveshaft completely to give yourself some working room. Give me a call though, I'll help.

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

Also, you're going to want to support the oil pan before you try to pull the trans. Allow it to drop a little to get a useable angle, but you don't want the motor pushing down on the input shaft as you try to pull it out.

And I found that with this trans it's easier to remove the bellhousing from the engine rather than leaving the bellhousing bolted to the engine. It's tough to get to the bellhousing to trans bolts.

You should also remove the driveshaft completely to give yourself some working room. Give me a call though, I'll help.

Well, that's goddamned fascinating, because I tell you this, there ain't no way that trans is coming out WITH the bell housing. Remember I have an LS bell housing. There is a bolt from the bell housing to the motor which is totally unreachable (Driver-side high) when installed. Great, this sounds like we may have to remove the motor/trans from the top I can reach all the bolts, though one of them is hard, from the trans to the bell housing. . . I also have to locate the special tool for separating the hydraulic line to the throwout bearing. Man, this is fun.

[enkeivette]

If I remember correctly you can't get to the upper most bolt until you drop the back of the trans and the motor swings down. You do have an LS1 though! So your engine/ trans may be set back a little more than mine. In your case it might be easier to leave the bellhousing on the motor. But don't freak out, for problems there are only solutions. We'll get it out. I have ratcheting wrenches, they fit into very tight spaces.

How do you know that the internals are damaged BTW?

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

If I remember correctly you can't get to the upper most bolt until you drop the back of the trans and the motor swings down. You do have an LS1 though! So your engine/ trans may be set back a little more than mine. In your case it might be easier to leave the bellhousing on the motor. But don't freak out, for problems there are only solutions. We'll get it out. I have ratcheting wrenches, they fit into very tight spaces.

How do you know that the internals are damaged BTW?

Fortunately, I'm well equipped with tools, including air tools and wratcheting wrenches, etc. But do need to get that special tool for release the hydraulic line from the throwout bearing. I don't know if the internals are damaged or not, it's more of a fear; like the reason the output shaft destroyed itself is because the internals grenaded first, binding, then releasing a lot of force through the output. . . Time will tell.

[SeanPlunk]

If we do this on a Saturday, I think we might be able to go to the dealership where Mike's dad works and put it on a lift there.