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Old 05-08-2013, 12:06 PM   #21
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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Bigger tubes work with aluminum since it's a harder metal. I suppose there is minimally less surface area on the sides...
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:06 PM   #22
BRUTAL64BRUTAL64 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
They are:

Not relevant, because

a) They have proven themselves to last long without issue
and,
b) They have proven themselves to keep high hp mills cool, all day long.

What's wrong with copper brass radiators you ask?

They are:

a) Heavier,
b) More easily damaged and internally warped because they are softer,
c) More expensive,
d) Less aesthetically pleasing,
and,
e) More likely to corrode.

Class dismissed

For a really smart guy..sometimes you can just......


Ok...you guys don't want the info....fine by me
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:07 PM   #23
enkeivetteenkeivette is offline
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Let's hear it! Im curious now! I can still be humbled, Ben has done it before, haha
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:11 PM   #24
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I want to make sure I dont accidentally fuck up and do this 'thing' to mine.

Btw, while we're on the subject, I think everyone should install one of those corrosion attracting plugs in their radiator. Saves your aluminum heads from pitting. Also, make sure there is a solid ground from your aluminum heads to your chassis. Helps prevent electrolysis
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:11 PM   #25
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I R Curious too. Have no real idea why all things considered I'd prefer a "traditional" over aluminum.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:09 PM   #26
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It's due to having two dissimilar metals in an electrolytic solution. It's Galvanic corrosion. Basically a non issue on LS motors since they are aluminum sleeved blocks.

This result in having to conduct a lot more maintenance.
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Old 05-09-2013, 12:58 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BADDASSC6 View Post
It's due to having two dissimilar metals in an electrolytic solution. It's Galvanic corrosion. Basically a non issue on LS motors since they are aluminum sleeved blocks.

This result in having to conduct a lot more maintenance.
Mm. Same idea as when someone repipes their house half assed with copper and leaves bits of it non-copper. Those joints corrode like a mofo. I guess aluminum + iron is worse than brass (copper+zinc) + iron is. But for aluminum + aluminum, no real problem. Got it.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:24 AM   #28
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Sleeves in the LS block are still cast iron. Ive never built an LS but I would think they protrude into the wet part of the block. Not to mention, the multitude of engines out there with iron blocks and aluminum heads from the factory.

Electrolysis is the result of dissimilar metals causing acidity in a solution (same way a battery works). In that respect, whether you chose to install an aluminum radiator (on any engine, because they all have iron somewhere) the choice is no different than installing aluminum heads or an aluminum water pump. Aluminum in the cooling system is still aluminum, no matter the function.

The thing in my cooling system is called a sacrificial anode.
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Old 05-09-2013, 07:35 AM   #29
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Ya, look, LS sleeves touch, so the coolant has to flow around them. So even an LS setup has iron and aluminum in the cooling system.

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Old 05-09-2013, 09:56 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette View Post
I want to make sure I dont accidentally fuck up and do this 'thing' to mine.

Btw, while we're on the subject, I think everyone should install one of those corrosion attracting plugs in their radiator. Saves your aluminum heads from pitting. Also, make sure there is a solid ground from your aluminum heads to your chassis. Helps prevent electrolysis
Ok that is ONE of the problems that Alum Rads have...that is the fix..very good.

Number two problem is a BIG one....If your thermostat sticks closed...it will cause all your tubes in the Alum rad to collapse. Yep..seen this a hundred times. Fix is to get a fail safe thermostat that only sticks open.
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