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01-28-2009, 12:39 PM
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#441
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Fast & Filthy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
23 at minimum, if we pump it up 22 or even 21. I think I'm even running a 21 at this point.
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Pumped up with this blower is only 12psi. I'm running the 23's in mine without any issues at 10psi.
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01-28-2009, 02:24 PM
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#442
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
. . .And why are you building a new engine when you have a fully forged one sitting in your garage? You need to save your money for fiberglass materials for all of these one time molds that you want me to flash. . .
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I want to fix the 174, pure and simple. The engine we have has forged pistons and a balanced stock assembly as I understand, not fully forged. It's a 302 with relatively low compression: 9.x:1.
If we can't fix the 174 there are two paths to get into vaguely the same performance level:
- Other FI solution
- Some kind of NA solution
A well thought out FI kit for the 302 and a stroker kit with big cam are going to run very similar price range all said and done, in other words, similar prices for similar results.
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01-28-2009, 02:25 PM
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#443
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396
If we go boost run Autolite 3923 if we go N/A run 3925 or 24. The 23's are 2 steps cooler then the 25's which are the stock replacement plug for a Mustang with a 5.0.
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What about wires? MSD, Accel, Duralast?
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01-28-2009, 11:27 PM
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#444
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Power's off.
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
What about wires? MSD, Accel, Duralast?
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Ben. 7mm for point ignition, 8mm for HEI. I suggest MSD 8mm with straight boots. You can leave them straight, or bend them individually up to 90*.
Header socks are a must.
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Chrome don't get you home.
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01-28-2009, 11:38 PM
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#445
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird
Ben. 7mm for point ignition, 8mm for HEI. I suggest MSD 8mm with straight boots. You can leave them straight, or bend them individually up to 90*.
Header socks are a must.
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Thanks for the info. Picked up an Alt and Starter today. The marine battery was intriguing, but our future holds a highly electrical project . . . hint hint.
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01-29-2009, 12:32 AM
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#446
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Fast & Filthy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
What about wires? MSD, Accel, Duralast?
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I've had great results with Taylor wires. I run the 45 degree ones on both the Chevelle and the Cobra and haven't burned one yet.
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01-29-2009, 02:20 PM
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#447
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Finally got through to Ed at PSE Superchargers in Oklahoma. He said because this is a B&M Unit, nobody has original parts anymore, however, Weiand took over production and some parts are interchangable. Basically he'd have to see it to give an estimate. Minimum rebuild is $650, shop rate for repairs is $125/hr. We could at least send it in for an estimate. Whattaya think Joe?
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01-29-2009, 04:43 PM
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#448
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
I'm asking in preparation for RX-Snake, but asked here because it's a good general info topic.
- We will be using an HEI Distributor.
- The motor is setup with something like 9.x:1 static compression.
- I'm really hoping we can fix the 174 Blower. It's a roots style blower than can get up to about 12psi boost on that motor.
I was thinking of using E85 because a) the cooling properties help mitigate the very hot nature of a roots blower b) will allow us to run more timing c) is half the price of race gas d) I'm looking for an extra quirk on the project car for that cool factor.
Plus, as the hippie tree huggers continue their reign of terror, no matter how poorly reasoned E85 should become more readily available, so I'm interested in this fuel as a performance fuel.
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well looks like you got all your ducks in a line except for that blower. also 9.x:1 compression holy hell on e85 you should play with a smaller pully and double boost!!
then again im not familier with sbc's so i dont know how well the engine as far as rod bolts, head studs, and rods will hold up to that will hold up to that but just a fanciful thought
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ask me about my weener!!
**Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car
**Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
**Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall
**Torque is how far you take the wall with you.
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01-29-2009, 05:03 PM
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#449
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Resident Avatar Gambler
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st-evo-9*corn fed-8urvet*
well looks like you got all your ducks in a line except for that blower. also 9.x:1 compression holy hell on e85 you should play with a smaller pully and double boost!!
then again im not familier with sbc's so i dont know how well the engine as far as rod bolts, head studs, and rods will hold up to that will hold up to that but just a fanciful thought
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I don't think that particular blower is good for much more than 12psi. That is my understanding anyway
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01-29-2009, 05:18 PM
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#450
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Fast & Filthy
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st-evo-9*corn fed-8urvet*
well looks like you got all your ducks in a line except for that blower. also 9.x:1 compression holy hell on e85 you should play with a smaller pully and double boost!!
then again im not familier with sbc's so i dont know how well the engine as far as rod bolts, head studs, and rods will hold up to that will hold up to that but just a fanciful thought
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The heads on this engine would lift with that much boost. Also, the 12psi is with the smaller pulley. Ben, also know that you are going to go through a lot more E85 then you will with race fuel because it needs a much richer mixture. The stoich AFR for E85 (at 85% Ethanol) is 9.76 as opposed to 14.7 for gas.
I got this from www.e85mustangs.com
"For a late model modular Ford engine, we can tell you that it requires about 20% more fuel at part throttle, and about 40% more fuel at wide open throttle (WOT) so ensure you have adequate fuel flow to the cylinder before you begin. This is where the experience of a professional tuner becomes important to understand just how much fuel to add and when, to make the perfect fuel curve."
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