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Old 01-06-2012, 09:51 PM   #271
Shaolin CraneShaolin Crane is offline
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Remember thin gaskets are good for radical RPM or FI cars used in serious race use as they WILL seap some and burn coolant. Besides, the single piece thin gaskets are likely to cost around $100 each, where with the other heads we can run the 9333-bt's which are around $15 each
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:13 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaolin Crane View Post
Remember thin gaskets are good for radical RPM or FI cars used in serious race use as they WILL seap some and burn coolant. Besides, the single piece thin gaskets are likely to cost around $100 each, where with the other heads we can run the 9333-bt's which are around $15 each
Ok, sounds like it's pretty close to down to whatever the comp would be with standard gaskets and my heads. If it's in range we're good, if not, we'll probably go with Shawn's heads. Let's see what Ron says. Just keep in mind, we're already stopped on getting anything more, at all, until more money comes in.

BTW - Spindles came today.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:15 PM   #273
Shaolin CraneShaolin Crane is offline
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Compression is likely to be pretty low, and I doubt the heads are going anywhere
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Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him

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Old 01-08-2012, 05:10 PM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 View Post
They're still better than the '75 smog heads that are on the engine now. However, I think the 64cc combustion chamber is larger than what's on there now so it will drop our compression even more.

Guy, do you have a set of the factory forged pistons from one of your engines?
Who cares. Does the V-8 work now? let's leave is that way and get the car together. If we want to go big later we can, but let get it together now.
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:26 PM   #275
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It does and if you guys want to just run it how it is now that's fine with me. We just need a set of valve covers which we can pull from a wrecking yard and the accessories.
 
Old 01-08-2012, 05:54 PM   #276
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I think its the best way to make sure we finish. Lets get it together. It will move just fine when we take all the weight out.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:29 PM   #277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 View Post
It does and if you guys want to just run it how it is now that's fine with me. We just need a set of valve covers which we can pull from a wrecking yard and the accessories.
Assume
  • we use my heads (which I have valve covers, and exhaust manifolds for)
  • you touch them with mild porting (optional)
  • we use use the cam and lifters we bought.

This means nominal cost for HG and labor time are the costs.


QUESTION
Is there any scenario where the above would be NO better performance than the motor as it sits because of compression drop or not really being able to breath well enough to take advantage of the larger cam?


Another way to think about it. In short, consider three scenarios.

1 - Use the motor exactly as is, no new cam/lifters or heads of any kind.
PROS Minimum cost in money and time.
CONS Low power. Arguably no net advantage over the stock I4 even.

2 - Use my heads (as is) with the cam and lifters we bought.
PROS Possibly some meaningful bump in power and torque. Nominal cost for gaskets. Not sooo much labor time.
CONS ?

3 - Use my heads (ported by Ron) with cam and lifters we bought.
PROS Slightly more bump in power than scenario 2.
CONS Considerably more labor input relative to possible power bump.


I can't speak for Ron's time. From a money POV, these are all fine as the only difference in cost is basic head gaskets, everything else is using things we already have and most importantly, labor. IF scenario 2 or 3 bumps power quite a bit over 1, and Ron has the time, it's worth going that direction I think. If the power doesn't really move up (becuase of CR drop or whatever), then it obviously doesn't make sense. If the power goes up, but Ron is substantially short on time delaying completion, then 1 is also probably better.

Basically regarding above money is an irrelevant parameter; it comes down to cost/benefit of performance increase to labor time. What do you think Ron?
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Old 01-09-2012, 05:50 AM   #278
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Run the motor the way it is.

It's going to take effort to:
Do a thorough job of reducing weight
install the cage
make chamber caster plates
box the upper and lower control arms

It's going to take money to:
Buy decent brake pads
Shocks
Cage
fire extinguisher
paint
Seat and mounts

The motor needs to be reliable so we can get some track time. Track time will make the car fast.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:05 AM   #279
Shaolin CraneShaolin Crane is offline
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We wont need to make CC plates since we arent lowering the car, we can get 1.5- with the stock ones. We wont need to box the control arms unless we have solid bushings in the control arms.
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him

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Old 01-09-2012, 09:44 AM   #280
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If we're going to leave the engine alone we are also going to want to leave the current gearing. The stock cam in this engine only has .368/.380 lift with 184/189 duration at .050 with a 109 LSA. It's done by 4000 rpms.
 
 



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