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04-23-2008, 10:50 PM
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#11
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Resident Avatar Gambler
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonydalrymple
Hey Sean..... Sounds interesting. Any chance of getting a bit of a confirmation when everyone gets together there? It's a bit of a drive to get there & I'm willing to do it; but I don't like the idea of going & "Oops.... two hours from now is when the get together happens.....".
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LOL, I will DEFINITELY get you some kind of confirmation. I can't make it this weekend as it turns out anyway - I have to go to my friend's babies 1 year birthday. She's an awesome baby though - so it's cool.
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04-23-2008, 10:53 PM
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#12
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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What are market prices for a Notch Back that has a good chassis, ok panels/interior and toast driveline? I'm thinking it might be a good cost effective electric drag car platform. . .
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04-23-2008, 10:56 PM
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#13
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Resident Avatar Gambler
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
What are market prices for a Notch Back that has a good chassis, ok panels/interior and toast driveline? I'm thinking it might be a good cost effective electric drag car platform. . .
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The chassis aren't too bad, I think you could get one for less than 5k? I would LOVE to have an electric drag car...max torque at 0 RPM FTW.
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04-24-2008, 12:23 AM
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#14
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanPlunk
The chassis aren't too bad, I think you could get one for less than 5k? I would LOVE to have an electric drag car...max torque at 0 RPM FTW.
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I was thinking more along the lines of $2k (Anthony got his for $900, but I'm guessing that's below average). There this kinda cool site I know, it might be a fun way to promote it. .
BTW, I know it's fun to say max torque at 0 rpm, but when we launch our cars hard we're close to max torque from launch, which is what counts. Serious auto drag cars with trans brake and hi stall TCs launch with more torque than the engine's peak torque. (Torque multiplication factor.)
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04-24-2008, 06:34 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
An explorer intake and diff huh? Do you know what the highest factory explorer diff ratio is? And those are all LSD right?
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I honestly don't know what the highest gear ratio available in an Explorer is; I do know 3.73's are a dime a dozen in them. I look for the diff tag# 3L73 & I know that that it is a guaranteed 31-spline 3.73 LSD.
I imagine I'd be looking for a 4L10,4L11,4L30,4L56 rear diff tag number if they came with higher gear ratios.....
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04-24-2008, 06:41 AM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
I was thinking more along the lines of $2k (Anthony got his for $900, but I'm guessing that's below average). There this kinda cool site I know, it might be a fun way to promote it. .
BTW, I know it's fun to say max torque at 0 rpm, but when we launch our cars hard we're close to max torque from launch, which is what counts. Serious auto drag cars with trans brake and hi stall TCs launch with more torque than the engine's peak torque. (Torque multiplication factor.)
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Whoa... You can find 4-banger notch Mustangs all day long for under 1K. Real 5.0 notches don't come up often & typically are ragged out & fetch 2K-7K. The 5.0 hatches & convertibles either still don't rate or there are still too many of them out there to demand much over 1-2K unless it's inabove average condition and low mileage. With patience; there are some great deals out there.....
My '89 2.3 notch I bought for $500, my first '89 vert was $800, & the current '89 'vert was indeed $900.... All needed some "medium work" \ money invested to get into driver condition & of course more too go above that IMHO....
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04-24-2008, 12:16 PM
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#17
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonydalrymple
Whoa... You can find 4-banger notch Mustangs all day long for under 1K. Real 5.0 notches don't come up often & typically are ragged out & fetch 2K-7K. The 5.0 hatches & convertibles either still don't rate or there are still too many of them out there to demand much over 1-2K unless it's inabove average condition and low mileage. With patience; there are some great deals out there.....
My '89 2.3 notch I bought for $500, my first '89 vert was $800, & the current '89 'vert was indeed $900.... All needed some "medium work" \ money invested to get into driver condition & of course more too go above that IMHO....
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Since I wouldn't care about the engine/trans, is there any fundamental difference in the chassis between the 4 bangers and the 5.0s? (Structural reinforcements.) Probably not I guess, but I'm guessing there must be quite a difference in the rear-end . . .
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04-24-2008, 02:34 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
Since I wouldn't care about the engine/trans, is there any fundamental difference in the chassis between the 4 bangers and the 5.0s? (Structural reinforcements.) Probably not I guess, but I'm guessing there must be quite a difference in the rear-end . . .
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You are correct; the chassis are identical.
The differences in vehicle components:
engine
trans
rear diff assy (small diff w\7.5" ring gear versus larger diff w\8.8" ring gear)
{Whole diff assembly will interchange; control arms & mounting points are the same}
alternator harness
engine computer
motor mounts
trans mount
maybe trans cross member(my memory's a bit vague on it)
smaller 9" front discs & specific matching spindles
cheaper base cloth seats
85mph speedo versus V8 140(late '89-93)
There may be more, but i think I covered most of them.....
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04-24-2008, 02:42 PM
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#19
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anthonydalrymple
You are correct; the chassis are identical.
The differences in vehicle components:
engine
trans
rear diff assy (small diff w\7.5" ring gear versus larger diff w\8.8" ring gear)
{Whole diff assembly will interchange; control arms & mounting points are the same}
alternator harness
engine computer
motor mounts
trans mount
maybe trans cross member(my memory's a bit vague on it)
smaller 9" front discs & specific matching spindles
cheaper base cloth seats
85mph speedo versus V8 140(late '89-93)
There may be more, but i think I covered most of them.....
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Cool, what's the cost of swapping out 8.8"? Will it take a 9" without too much hassle. Seems like a toast (but good chassis) 4-cyl is the way to go. I wouldn't care about any of that other stuff except diff.
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04-24-2008, 10:20 PM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 91
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An 8.8 is almost as strong as a 9". If you plan on going faster than 10's; then you get a Currie "bolt in" nine inch. If not; the 8.8 will do quite nicely with some minor mods, (i can go into the details later if you like).
An 8.8 from a V8 '86-93 Mustang runs about $150 from any Pick-a part; complete from drum to drum. Often when found; the diffs have had a gear change. Last weekend there was one with 4.11's in the Pick-A-Part here in San Berdo......
Another option is to bolt in an 8.8 out of an '87-88 Thunder chicken turbo coupe..... The auto cars have a 3.73 LSD & the stick cars have the 3.55 LSD....... Both have rear discs as well.... The T-bird can also donate the 2.3 turbo setup.... If interested in the turbo coupe rear diff swap; go here: http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/
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