[BlacknBoostn]

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396

He already has a knock sensor and the tuning software should allow him to see how much timing the ECU pulls if he has too much timing. At least that is how my friends software works on his GTO.

As for how much timing to run it differs for every engine. It also depends on weather, fuel, engine temp, etc. I didn't tune my Cobra so I don't know what the timing curve is. I can tell you that when I take it back to the tuner to have another tune done for the meth injection I'm going to have him pull 4 degrees of timing out starting at 3800 rpms. That way I can run 10 degrees base instead of 6 (the car has much better low speed throttle response with 10) and it won't detonate. I don't have a knock sensor with OBD1 so I have to get out of it if I hear it ping.

I don't have any software yet, no knock sensor either (other than the factory CEL code.) all will be coming.. the e boost controler will have a knock sensor

[BlacknBoostn]

Originally Posted by st-evo-9*corn fed-8urvet*

NNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO dont freakin ever tune ur car to 12.5:1 afr on 91oct or even race gas

and dont even shoot for 12.1:1 afr JESUS u guys are gonna make him blow up his engine!!!

shoot for on 91oct 11:1- 11.3afr
on 93-95oct shoot for 11.3:1-11.5:1afr
on 100oct or up too c16 or even meth injection shoot for 12:1

and 30-40 timing advance is way toooooo much at his WOT he will detonate all over the place.

dude if you want..when ever you get your tuning equipment ill stand over ur shoulder and tell u wat too do. the srt-4 engine is close to the evo engine in tuning so its not too foriegn for me to give you a hand lol.

That'd be rad basically. I really want to learn how to do this. I feel confident that I can tune my car myself and I'd love to do it. I'll be callin you when I'm ready!

[94cobra69ss396]

Originally Posted by BlacknBoostn

I don't have any software yet, no knock sensor either (other than the factory CEL code.) all will be coming.. the e boost controler will have a knock sensor

Your car does have a factory knock sensor and the PCM will make adjustments (retard timing) if it receives input from it.

[enkeivette]

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396

He already has a knock sensor and the tuning software should allow him to see how much timing the ECU pulls if he has too much timing. At least that is how my friends software works on his GTO.

As for how much timing to run it differs for every engine. It also depends on weather, fuel, engine temp, etc. I didn't tune my Cobra so I don't know what the timing curve is. I can tell you that when I take it back to the tuner to have another tune done for the meth injection I'm going to have him pull 4 degrees of timing out starting at 3800 rpms. That way I can run 10 degrees base instead of 6 (the car has much better low speed throttle response with 10) and it won't detonate. I don't have a knock sensor with OBD1 so I have to get out of it if I hear it ping.

I know he already has a knock sensor. I'm talking about a knocklite.

Didn't see that he had tuning software. If so, and if it shows how much timing the engine has pulled, that would be cool and he should be good without one.

I bought one because I have loud exhaust, and didn't think I'd be able to hear knock until it was serious.

Cornfed, I wouldn't base the timing on an Evo setup at all. That sounds scary to me. Different head design, different compression, different timing. Everything else, have it your way. I've heard of 1st gen SBCs losing power below 12:1, even below 12.5:1. I was told that 12:1 would be better for a boosted SBC.

In fact, I think Ben's H&C LS1 was around 14:1 WOT, but I could be wrong.

[enkeivette]

Boostn, I'm almost positive that you have a knock sensor already. It's more likely that you'd be installing a second one made to work with the tuning software specifically. I'll bet if you read the fine print that it will specify certain factory Bosch sensors that it will also be compatible with. If you don't mind splicing into your factory harness.

[st-evo-9*corn fed-8urvet*]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

I know he already has a knock sensor. I'm talking about a knocklite.

Didn't see that he had tuning software. If so, and if it shows how much timing the engine has pulled, that would be cool and he should be good without one.

I bought one because I have loud exhaust, and didn't think I'd be able to hear knock until it was serious.

Cornfed, I wouldn't base the timing on an Evo setup at all. That sounds scary to me. Different head design, different compression, different timing. Everything else, have it your way. I've heard of 1st gen SBCs losing power below 12:1, even below 12.5:1. I was told that 12:1 would be better for a boosted SBC.

In fact, I think Ben's H&C LS1 was around 14:1 WOT, but I could be wrong.

well for fuel NA motors can actually hit the 12.5:1afr which is the most ideal power to fuel afr for ever car application but boosted application cant hit that especially boosted aluminum blocks. also it depends on his compression ration and the lower u get the harder it is to hit that mark, which is y NA higher compression motors can do that all day.

also the 14.1afr on bens car re-ask him and confirm because that counds insane to me and seems more like a cruising or idleing afr, then again i know ive never dabbled in NA motors but i know for a fact that 12.5:1afr is the most perfect afr for power to fuel. and anything above that at wot would be too lean.

also as for the timing issue with boost you lower timing thats always the most general rule of thumb

IE- stock evo @ 3500rpm @ 19-20psi is around 8 degrees
while @ 7000rpm @ 14-15psi is around 11-14 degree

from the factory when the boost is lower they upped the timing, subie sti timing looks the same as well.

i believe i read on an earlier post on hear somone stating they where runing more timing on his NA set up then on his boosted set up he runs less.

[st-evo-9*corn fed-8urvet*]

Originally Posted by BlacknBoostn

That'd be rad basically. I really want to learn how to do this. I feel confident that I can tune my car myself and I'd love to do it. I'll be callin you when I'm ready!

ya dude just give me a jingle when ever. i also got a portable wideband o2 sensor so hopefully next week i can start tuning all evo's from evo5's too evo 10's and sti's :-D finally i can start making some money after being laid off :-(

[big_G]

Originally Posted by BlacknBoostn

That'd be rad basically. I really want to learn how to do this. I feel confident that I can tune my car myself and I'd love to do it. I'll be callin you when I'm ready!

I put a F.A.S.T. system together a few weeks ago for my ProCharged 383 'Vette. I enjoy the tuning on the laptop and seeing the v/e tables change and the tune work. Still got a few bugs to work out, but the lower end torque is much improved. It's nice to change the tune without getting gasoline all over the place....

[94cobra69ss396]

Originally Posted by st-evo-9*corn fed-8urvet*

well for fuel NA motors can actually hit the 12.5:1afr which is the most ideal power to fuel afr for ever car application but boosted application cant hit that especially boosted aluminum blocks. also it depends on his compression ration and the lower u get the harder it is to hit that mark, which is y NA higher compression motors can do that all day.

also the 14.1afr on bens car re-ask him and confirm because that counds insane to me and seems more like a cruising or idleing afr, then again i know ive never dabbled in NA motors but i know for a fact that 12.5:1afr is the most perfect afr for power to fuel. and anything above that at wot would be too lean.

also as for the timing issue with boost you lower timing thats always the most general rule of thumb

IE- stock evo @ 3500rpm @ 19-20psi is around 8 degrees
while @ 7000rpm @ 14-15psi is around 11-14 degree

from the factory when the boost is lower they upped the timing, subie sti timing looks the same as well.

i believe i read on an earlier post on hear somone stating they where runing more timing on his NA set up then on his boosted set up he runs less.

On a N/A engine anywhere between 12.5:1 to 12.8:1 will make the most power. Also, you are correct that you will run more timing on a N/A engine than a boosted one. On the Chevelle I have 40 degrees (use to be 36 with the Mallory box but had to up it to 40 to get the same mph with the MSD POS) all in by 3000 rpms. Again, I don't know what the Cobra has but I read on other forums from guys who tuned their own boosted Stangs anywhere from 16-20 depending on the amount of boost. I'm also assuming that on a car like my Cobra with a centrifugal blower that you would be able to add more timing at lower rpms and then back it down as the boost climbs. This would give you more torque at lower rpms and also keep it from detonating in the upper rpms. A turbo car would be a whole different story because you have full boost at a lower rpm.

[SeanPlunk]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

I know he already has a knock sensor. I'm talking about a knocklite.

Didn't see that he had tuning software. If so, and if it shows how much timing the engine has pulled, that would be cool and he should be good without one.

I bought one because I have loud exhaust, and didn't think I'd be able to hear knock until it was serious.

Cornfed, I wouldn't base the timing on an Evo setup at all. That sounds scary to me. Different head design, different compression, different timing. Everything else, have it your way. I've heard of 1st gen SBCs losing power below 12:1, even below 12.5:1. I was told that 12:1 would be better for a boosted SBC.

In fact, I think Ben's H&C LS1 was around 14:1 WOT, but I could be wrong.

NONONONONO, Cornfed is right. 12.5:1 on a boosted car is WAY too lean (maybe carb. cars are different Enkei?). The leanest my car goes is 11.7:1. Steve, 11:1 would actually be too rich on a Cobra. Evo's may be different, but 11.5-11.8 seems to be the accepted range you want to be in for supercharged domestic cars (I know Cobras and most LS1's are in that range generally). I'm not sure how much timing the Cobra is running at WOT though.