[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by enkeivette

Invite me when you guys go through the diff. That's the one thing I've yet to learn.

That's it, then you're all done?

[94cobra69ss396]

Originally Posted by Vettezuki

Thanks Ron, I'm grateful for all your help.

My concern with the fitment of your tire would be how much it might expand under heavy acceleration. I rembember there beings something like maybe a 1/2 clearance. No way I'd trust something like a wrinkle wall slick of that approximate size, but maybe a DR or, basic (?) slick, might not expand too much. What do you think?


Second question. Might I be able to bring out the pumpkin to you and you could pop it open and take a look at the gears and maybe the LSD to evaluate it's condition. I figure while things are totally apart, it makes some sense to evaluate their condition.

They fit fine and even if they grow they won't rub. However, with the short sidewall on them I doubt they will grow much.

We can take a look at the rearend anytime. All we need to check for is the wear pattern on the ring and pinion and check the bearings and race for pitting and wear. As for checking the limited slip it all depends on what type Mazda used. Did they use a clutch style?

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396

. . . As for checking the limited slip it all depends on what type Mazda used. Did they use a clutch style?

Thy had both in that era and I "believe" ours is a clutch type.

[Vettezuki]

What is the difference betweent he Tbird and Explorer 8.8 Diffs?

It looks like a guy is building a setup to allow mounting an Explorer sourced 8.8 into the stock IRS. Some fab required for axles, but otherwise, looks like a pretty slick solution.

http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...ar-v2-0-a.html

[Ultraperio]

I'm new here but this sort of project is right up my alley.

As for the diff selection, if your going to be using a blown 302 with 500hp or less there is no point in the time, energy, or cost of doing a solid axle swap. I don't know what model FC you have but ill assume its a GTU based on the 5 lug hubs, LSD, and 4.11. I wouldn't trust the n/a diff much farther than you can throw it. It'll probably hold up... for a bit. I would go with a TII rear, these little diffs have proven to hold up reliably with 600+hp launches(im talking about SBC power here). Hell they actually swap the TII rears into 93+ FD's. If one does happen to grenade they are on ebay all the time for ~$200. As for gearing your pretty much limited to 3.9, 4.11, or 4.33 as far as readily available ratio's go.

Another option you might want to look into is a guy in the 7 community was building subframes to fit an IRS dana 36/44 out of a C4 into the FD and FC. I'll look to see if i can find his page/thread(been a few years since i've heard anything) but this will enable you to keep the IRS and open up all kinds of gearing options. The other, more common way to go would be the cobra 8.8 irs swap. there's guys that make subframes already and you can pick up the complete 8.8 setup for about $1k.

If you do decide to go live axle the most reasonable method would be a '96+ explorer (all over junk yards in good condition for ~$250). the explorers have the higher spline count axles and are stronger than most of the 8.8 ranger and mustang rears. You'd want '96+ because of the disk brakes. There's no reason to go with a 9" as far as i can tell based on projected power. Plus if your stressing over any slight lateral location of the pinion on the 8.8. the 9" pinion is around 2" to the right.

I personally have something against live axle 7's tho, its a good handling car. If you just want a good power to weight with a live axle for the strip there's always the fox body.

Anyway, I'm about a year late for this party so the decision might have already been made. But still, i'd love to help out. Anything you need to know about the FC just let me know.

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by Ultraperio

Another option you might want to look into is a guy in the 7 community was building subframes to fit an IRS dana 36/44 out of a C4 into the FD and FC. I'll look to see if i can find his page/thread(been a few years since i've heard anything) but this will enable you to keep the IRS and open up all kinds of gearing options. The other, more common way to go would be the cobra 8.8 irs swap. there's guys that make subframes already and you can pick up the complete 8.8 setup for about $1k.

Hot damn! Consider yourself volunteered. My current thinking is the 8.8 IRS setup, but I thought total cost pushed $2k, by the time you were done with the half shaft work etc.? I seriously considered the TII diff as it does seem to be strong, but we'll be talking a torque monster on sticky rubber and it seems 450WHP is more the real world break point. At least that's what I found. Putting the TII is tribial and cheap compared to the 8.8" . . . that's for damn sure.

BTW, This project was put on a kind of back burner as my wife left her gig about a year ago now and we decided now is a great time to start a small business. It's working out ok, and all the foot work is done on that, but still hemorrhaging play money. Nevertheless, I'm hell bent to keep pushing on this as I can and one the play money comes back on line, it'll be totally focused on this project.

[Ultraperio]

Originally Posted by Vettezuki

Hot damn! Consider yourself volunteered. My current thinking is the 8.8 IRS setup, but I thought total cost pushed $2k, by the time you were done with the half shaft work etc.? I seriously considered the TII diff as it does seem to be strong, but we'll be talking a torque monster on sticky rubber and it seems 450WHP is more the real world break point. At least that's what I found. Putting the TII is tribial and cheap compared to the 8.8" . . . that's for damn sure.

BTW, This project was put on a kind of back burner as my wife left her gig about a year ago now and we decided now is a great time to start a small business. It's working out ok, and all the foot work is done on that, but still hemorrhaging play money. Nevertheless, I'm hell bent to keep pushing on this as I can and one the play money comes back on line, it'll be totally focused on this project.

Considering the scope of this project, I'd assume $200(cost of a TII diff, less if you can find one in a yard) isn't going to break it. I'm not suggesting throwing money around but if a $200 experiment could save you $1500 in fab work, it might be worth it. That's not so say if the TII rear doesn't work out you couldn't still splurge on a built 8.8.

Depending on your fab skills you might be able to throw together a budget dana 44/8.8 conversion on the cheap.

I feel you on the play money, or lack thereof. >.<

[Vettezuki]

Originally Posted by Ultraperio

Considering the scope of this project, I'd assume $200(cost of a TII diff, less if you can find one in a yard) isn't going to break it. I'm not suggesting throwing money around but if a $200 experiment could save you $1500 in fab work, it might be worth it. That's not so say if the TII rear doesn't work out you couldn't still splurge on a built 8.8.

Depending on your fab skills you might be able to throw together a budget dana 44/8.8 conversion on the cheap.

It's a good point. If a TII could even work for a while, it might substantially improve our timeline to getting the project on the road for real.

[enkeivette]

Originally Posted by Vettezuki

That's it, then you're all done?

For carb cars... yes

[kdracer73]

I got the hubs apart, front bearings packed. The studs not the same front to rear. The front studs have a longer spline area, and overall length.