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03-23-2015, 12:17 PM
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#101
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryridesmotox
Not to bad price wise at all. Whatever you do, do NOT run a synthetic for break in. Run a standard mineral based oil. My builder has already cautioned me a few times about that. A synthetic can glaze the cylinder walls and not allow the rings to seat properly.
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Same story. Troy said three changes on full mineral oil, or a blend would be fine, with the zinc additive (like from Lucas). Perform at roughly 500 miles, 800 miles and 1,000 miles. Then full synthetic is fine. The issue is apparently synthetic, while objectively superior for shearing and heat tolerance, doesn't cling to metal surfaces at all the same as mineral oil. Or at least that's what I understood.
He said the three things that f up rings sealing properly are trying to do it on full synthetic, running boost before they're set, and of course overheating.
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03-23-2015, 03:58 PM
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#102
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vettezuki
Same story. Troy said three changes on full mineral oil, or a blend would be fine, with the zinc additive (like from Lucas). Perform at roughly 500 miles, 800 miles and 1,000 miles. Then full synthetic is fine. The issue is apparently synthetic, while objectively superior for shearing and heat tolerance, doesn't cling to metal surfaces at all the same as mineral oil. Or at least that's what I understood.
He said the three things that f up rings sealing properly are trying to do it on full synthetic, running boost before they're set, and of course overheating.
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They do make full synthetic break in oil. Also watch out because high zinc oils will kill your cats very quickly.
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2006 CTS-V
1993 Trooper
1991 Impulse RS
1988 Trooper II SAS
1986 TrooperII (No Rear)
1988 Impulse (dead)
1983 K20
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03-23-2015, 04:55 PM
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#103
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackax
They do make full synthetic break in oil. Also watch out because high zinc oils will kill your cats very quickly.
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I think that is a major reason they got away from it as a common additive. I'm only going to run it for the first few oil changes, less than 2,000 miles, and unless it gets a bunch of oil in the combustion for some reason (which it really shouldn't) not much if any zinc should make it to the cats.
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03-24-2015, 12:20 AM
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#104
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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I run diesel oil in the mustang and the cats are fine.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him
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To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. Stopping the world!
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03-25-2015, 07:13 PM
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#105
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Should have it back by Saturday. As always, just little gotchas.
The Energy Suspension poly engine mounts slightly relocate the engine and the DS no longer reaches, so I'll have to go back to the OE mounts.
Changed the AC bracket to a non-rednuck POS, OE looking Holly unit. Unfortunately, this means running down another belt.
Head cross-over pipe gasket, a dealer only item that had to be ordered.
But really, just about there.
The Luk Pro Gold clutch (supposedly LS7 OE+) is way-the-fuck beefier than the McLeod single plate street performance clutch. Also, the FW is a kind of lightened cast piece instead of aluminum. At first I was slightly butt hurt about this, but in reality I'm not doing any road racing where spinning up absolutely fast as possible is the goal. The heavier FW actually should help with street manners, namely getting away from a light; slightly less likely to bog off idle because of the rotational inertia while the clutching is engaging.
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03-25-2015, 09:05 PM
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#106
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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Your build thread sucks, there are no pictures.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him
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03-26-2015, 01:12 AM
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#107
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Here is an engine. It has pistons and things. 
This shows the top of the new Mahle "dished" pistons. The reliefs are huge.
Can't really see here but, I did go with H-beam forged rods. I think RPM was the manufacturer.
In the past I had farted around with the idea of changing the reluctor, but I kept it stock for the era.
Just kind of like this pic.
Getting ready to load up.
Loaded up.
More pics in vehicle album.
http://motorgen.com/pic/showgallery.php/cat/527
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03-26-2015, 08:52 AM
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#108
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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RPM makes good shit. I'm running their rods, and fly wheel.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him
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03-27-2015, 03:17 PM
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#109
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I, Vettezuki
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 14,754
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Fired right up, no problems. I pick her up tonight.
Question:
Other than oil changes and zinc additive for the first few rounds, do I need to be particularly concerned with how I drive while the rings are setting? FPS said other than normal considerations of making sure it's up to temp, and maybe not road racing, it's fine to get on it a little bit. Very specific break in procedures are more necessary for solid roller setups, but hydraulic not so much.
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03-28-2015, 12:51 AM
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#110
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pain's fun, hit me again
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,264
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Yes, fucking rag on it. Every motor I build gets the initial start up, 2k rpm hold till operating temp. Shut down, check over, start back up, full rpm range revs (this is the time where I do a massive burnout and a few WOT runs)If you don't have the same train of thought, Few half throttle runs then a few WOT runs should do it. Basically stay away from extended consistent RPM at any range (including idle) and you're good to go. Then change oil.
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lee
Forget about winning and losing; forget about pride and pain. Let your opponent graze your skin and you smash into his flesh; let him smash into your flesh and you fracture his bones; let him fracture your bones and you take his life. Do not be concerned with escaping safely — lay your life before him
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