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12-03-2008, 11:16 PM
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#1
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,850
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Impulse auto buys.
When I bought the Vette, I knew nothing about cars, I lucked out. Drove away with only a broken motor mount.
When I checked out my dirtbike, it took us about 30 minutes to get the motor to fire. (It was worn the f*ck out). But impulsively I bought it anyways, had to replace the motor/ trans after 1 1/2 seasons.
When I checked out the Neon, the bottom of the motor and the transaxle was caked with oil and grease. And the transmission made a funny noise upon acceleration. That noise became more funny as time went on. ![Laughing](images/smilies/sm_laughing.gif) Also the shifter was loose as hell. Thinking about how much money I would save on gas, and the freedom that I would have to work on the Vette, I bought it impulsively. Within two years I've had to replace all of the valves/ guides, the shifter cable grommets, the HG, the timing belt, and idler pulleys, the spark plug wires, and now the transaxle. How much money have I saved now? Well... still prob quite a bit. Haha.
Before we settled on my brothers car I checked out 4 cars in person and talked with probably another 10 over the phone and another 20 via e-mail. The Mustang was the only one that didn't worry me. Oil free undercarriage, nice shifting trans, clean oil, didn't climb towards the upper temp range, (Which reminds me, if you're checking out a car, let it idle for 20 mins, who cares how the owner will look at you. If the car is going to overheat, it will likely do it at idle (no air flow to the rad)). Smooth rotors, tread left, brake pad left, no strange noises or creaks, pulleys didn't wobble, no valve train noise (I'll put my ear right over the rocker covers and rev the engine to listen for anything) no evidence of body work/ frame damage. One more tip, before you drive there to check out the car, tell the owner not to drive the car at least 5 or 6 hours before hand. Cold starts are great for checking idle quality, and the possibility of blue smoke (oil burning) or white smoke (coolant burning). Both of which can disappear once the engine is warm.
Had I been this thorough with my other vehicles, I would have most likely not have been so disappointed.
__________________
I <3 forced induction.
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12-04-2008, 09:34 AM
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#2
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Boost Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
When I bought the Vette, I knew nothing about cars, I lucked out. Drove away with only a broken motor mount.
When I checked out my dirtbike, it took us about 30 minutes to get the motor to fire. (It was worn the f*ck out). But impulsively I bought it anyways, had to replace the motor/ trans after 1 1/2 seasons.
When I checked out the Neon, the bottom of the motor and the transaxle was caked with oil and grease. And the transmission made a funny noise upon acceleration. That noise became more funny as time went on. ![Laughing](images/smilies/sm_laughing.gif) Also the shifter was loose as hell. Thinking about how much money I would save on gas, and the freedom that I would have to work on the Vette, I bought it impulsively. Within two years I've had to replace all of the valves/ guides, the shifter cable grommets, the HG, the timing belt, and idler pulleys, the spark plug wires, and now the transaxle. How much money have I saved now? Well... still prob quite a bit. Haha.
Before we settled on my brothers car I checked out 4 cars in person and talked with probably another 10 over the phone and another 20 via e-mail. The Mustang was the only one that didn't worry me. Oil free undercarriage, nice shifting trans, clean oil, didn't climb towards the upper temp range, (Which reminds me, if you're checking out a car, let it idle for 20 mins, who cares how the owner will look at you. If the car is going to overheat, it will likely do it at idle (no air flow to the rad)). Smooth rotors, tread left, brake pad left, no strange noises or creaks, pulleys didn't wobble, no valve train noise (I'll put my ear right over the rocker covers and rev the engine to listen for anything) no evidence of body work/ frame damage. One more tip, before you drive there to check out the car, tell the owner not to drive the car at least 5 or 6 hours before hand. Cold starts are great for checking idle quality, and the possibility of blue smoke (oil burning) or white smoke (coolant burning). Both of which can disappear once the engine is warm.
Had I been this thorough with my other vehicles, I would have most likely not have been so disappointed.
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My dad has kinda the same issue... He has a 1976 Triumph TR6 in the garage that needs over 5k of work to make it reasonable again. new carbs fuel lines etc... hasn't moved in about 1.5 years.
He also has a 98M3 convertible that works most of the time... convertible top has been repaired more than 3 times, AC works half the time... motor is sound though and suspension is fine... it's always the little things. A bmw is alot to fix
__________________
Mods: Coilovers, Mopar CAI, Maxxfab o2, catless DP w/ Borla exhaust...
Best ET 14.668 see timeslip
Mods to come: rims + rubber, intercooler, piping, Stage 3 equivelent turbo system with aftermarket turbo and all supporting systems. Goal HP: 400fwhp Goal ET: 11.90 on slicks.
<guy in turbo eclipse>
I'd race ya, but you'd eat me up dawg!!!
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12-04-2008, 09:36 AM
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#3
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Boost Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 729
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I will admit the SRT4 was an impulse... I should have driven more of them.. My friend owned one so I was already pretty familiar with the car. Turned out well anyhow!
__________________
Mods: Coilovers, Mopar CAI, Maxxfab o2, catless DP w/ Borla exhaust...
Best ET 14.668 see timeslip
Mods to come: rims + rubber, intercooler, piping, Stage 3 equivelent turbo system with aftermarket turbo and all supporting systems. Goal HP: 400fwhp Goal ET: 11.90 on slicks.
<guy in turbo eclipse>
I'd race ya, but you'd eat me up dawg!!!
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12-04-2008, 10:19 AM
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#4
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 6,850
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That reminds me, AC will also need to be fixed in the Neon for the 2nd time now.
__________________
I <3 forced induction.
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12-04-2008, 10:54 AM
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#5
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Boost Junkie
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enkeivette
That reminds me, AC will also need to be fixed in the Neon for the 2nd time now.
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still blowin cold here haha
__________________
Mods: Coilovers, Mopar CAI, Maxxfab o2, catless DP w/ Borla exhaust...
Best ET 14.668 see timeslip
Mods to come: rims + rubber, intercooler, piping, Stage 3 equivelent turbo system with aftermarket turbo and all supporting systems. Goal HP: 400fwhp Goal ET: 11.90 on slicks.
<guy in turbo eclipse>
I'd race ya, but you'd eat me up dawg!!!
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