Step 1, remove stuff! (Remove the brake caliper and the wheel.) The caliper needs to slide out from the bottom on the drivers side, from the top on the pass side.
Step 2, remove more stuff! (Unbolt the McPherson strut from the steering knuckle) Remove the axle nut (center of the rotor/ 32mm). You may need to loosen the sway bar to push the lower control arm down in order to remove the end of the axle from the knuckle.
Step 3, pry the axle from the case, stick the pry bar between the casing and the metal sleeve on the axle, do not pull the axle at the end, that may damage the CV joint.
Step 4, remove the most intelligently designed battery box in the entire world. It is held in by 9 bolts and yes, it has a ram air cooling duct... for the battery. Too bad Dodge didn't use this sort of engineering to design their transmissions and engines.
Step 5, remove the two mounts, the starter, the stupid bobble (trans shock), and the motor to trans brace.
Step 6, remove the shifter cable mount and the clutch cable. There's a plastic cover on the casing that will pop off and allow you access to the clutch cable. (No need to pull the clutch fork back on this trans)
Step 7, unbolt the trans and slide it off! Out with the old.
Step 8, in with the not as old.
Note: If this took you longer than 4 hours, and if you needed any sort of instruction manual... you're not as cool as me.
This procedure will likely be similar for 2nd gen Neons and SOHC motors, seeing as how they use the same trans. Post Feb 2000 you'll have to deal with a hyd clutch.
While I'm in here I'm going to see if I can get those coil overs to work, and also I'm going to cut up the battery box getting rid of the cooling ducts so that I can do some sort of ram air setup for this motor. Also I'm going to replace that stupid bobble with something solid.