Quote:
Originally Posted by BADDASSC6
1) The real issue is that you need a tune. Lowering the oil temps if they are not unreasonably high is a band aid.
2) I think you already have one, but if you don't I would go for a 160F thermostat.
3) What spark plugs are you running? This can make a big difference. I like the old school autolights. I will stay away from any platinum shit. The stay hotter which helps them last alot longer, but they are way more likely to detonate.
4) As a referance point for a similar motor: Normal friving oil temperature is about 200-215F, When I'm road racing oil the oil will get to 255F. With the new synthetic oils thier breakdown limits are so high that you would have other major failures before that point.
Go get a tune  |
I have a tune. It took a full day from a reputable tuner. He said I might have higher compression than advertised. With 91 octane, 18 degrees total timing is all he could do before it got ugly. I run Torco (about 1 quart to 15 galoons for a net of about 93 octane, I can explain if you want). With that it's safe, but there's probably A LOT on the table with tuning and higher octane. The Vette my motor was originally in gat 432 to the wheels with mid length headers and the ls1 intake. I have an ls6 intake, a different TB, stock manifolds and of course the C3 IRS, and the best I've gotten is 391. My Dyno chart was reviewed by a serious F-Body guy who said there was a little on the table in the way of low end torque with the same octane, but it was otherwise already idealized.
HOWEVER
I'm running a stock temp thermostat. I don't recall what that is, but it's not 160. And I'm running Iridium plugs
MY GUESS
Since I'm running a fairly high compression motor with retarded timing, there's a bit on the table. The main problem is heat causing pre-detonation thus requiring retarded timing. If I can lower some of the temps and up the timing, I can get some "free" power.