Bringing her back online
 

Well, dropped off the Vette this weekend with ls1z28. He poked around yesterday and whatever the ticking sound is, it's nothing accessible with the engine in the car. He doesn't think it's cam bearings, mostly because oil pressure never drops out of spec and he says when the LS gets sloppy tolerances they tend to lose quite a bit of pressure. He'll still check of course, but his guess is maybe wrist-pin. In any event, we'll find out. Engine comes out and apart this week.

While it's out "probably" drop in some new lifters (Rhoads variable duration is a top candiate since it is fundamentally a street car) and reseal anything even vaguely tired looking. I DON'T think I'll lower compression with a thicker HG because I'm expecting some of my 91 octane summer knocking is because of the rather high backpressure I have, which will go away with headers and hi-flow cats.

If it turns out to be something more ominous or potentially catastrophic, not sure what I'll do. Not a fan of throwing money at losers.

Morel lifters are hands down the best lifters for the money. I have run them in every motor and they are very popular with the LS crowd as well. SO much so its the only lifter Ed Curtis recommends.

Every instance of cam knock I have seen has shown adequate oil pressure as well, I'm not sure the exact cause of it, and not sure anyone has really determined why they do this, but wrist pins would make a whole hell of a lot more noise than what I heard.

We'll have a definitive answer on the sound here in a couple days.

Do the Morel's move enough oil at lower RPMs? It's a street car, bulk of run time will be between 2-3k rpm, or even lower.

Yes, absolutely. They are a short travel snap ring retained tool steel lifter. Even solid roller lifters are fine for low rpm street use.

Here ya go
http://www.flowtechinduction.com/mor...raulic-roller/

Oh that's reasonably priced. I thought they were going to be like $800 or something. Do I need to get a new set of lengthened push rods too?

They are usually the same length as the stock units, however as with any valvetrain piece, the pushrods will need to be checked after they are installed. There's a good chance your old ones will work, however with the added strength and oil pressure of any link bar lifter a single piece formed end pushrod is ideal. Mahle, comp and trick flow make great ones that are under $200 a set.

Well, apparently my clutch was down to the rivets. So there's one thing.

Ride that clutch grandma

No. Maybe it was never fully releasing! BHP and this clutch are about matched, and with something like 70 strip launches, that probably didn't help. So those occasions when the clutch was fully engaged and I felt like it was maybe slipping just a lil . . it probably was. Probably have to go up to a moderate twin disc. I don't want anything so aggressive.