Its my job to fuck with you. I know all too well the issues with the hydraulic t56 setup. Which is why I will always prefer a cable.

What power are you putting down now? And what block are you using? I've been AWOL from the forum for a while so I'm a bit behind. I did an LS9 clutch in my V last year. You have to get a Katech flywheel because the LS9 has a unique crankshaft bolt pattern. Its actually more expensive than the clutch, but if you can find one used, like I did, you can have a clutch capable of 700-800whp that feels like an OEM LS1 clutch.

Ls7 clutch should hold fine,be cheap, and drive easy. Look forward to seeing this car in action.

Thanks for the clutch refs, I'll look into them. I want OEM feel whenever I can get it. Te McLeodd was fine, just burnt up . . .

Right now it puts down 390WHP. With a few planned engine and exhaust mods, just things like lifters, valves, rockers and exhaust and retune, probably/maybe somewhere around 430~WHP. And that'll be fine. If I keep it, which is where I'm at at the moment, and do the remaining suspension, brakes, wheels and tires mods I've thought about, I'll be under 3,000lbs full wet and 430~ to the wheels NA. That's plenty for a street car. :)

I thought you were making more power. With under 500 to the wheels I'd stick with an LS7 all day. As far as master cylinder, you might want to consider an upgrade. No stock GM clutch master cylinders seem to be worth a damn.

It's just a H&C 346. The heads are aggressively moded, but the cam is the common max smoggable cam, 114LSA, 224/224,0.566 lift The exhuast is stock, so very restrictive out of the block.

I use a GM Truck MC because it has almost the right bore and stroke and mates to the firewall of the C3 without any mods. No other MC does.

Oh. Main bearings were on their way out too, so it's good we pulled and tore down before something more catastrophic happened. I'll be talking to ls1z28 this afternoon and forming a game plan. I'm keeping a cap on the "while I'm at it" but also want be smart about the "while the engine is out and apart".

Ls7 clutch might "hold" but I know several people that complain about it not disengaging either. I believe R1 is coming out with a line of performance clutches based off OE specs.

Well, we were within shouting distance of a total failure.

The sound was coming from rod #6, the bearing was almost toast, but fortunately hadn't spun; it was the slop. There was a lot of metal in the pan that had gone through the motor. Not good, but could have been much worse.

Soooo, ls1z28 recommends a thorough rebuild or an altogether new motor to be reliable.

clean
bore/hone
resurface
check for straightness
balance
new pistons
lifters
push rods if necessary

Cam shows wear and needs to be reground or at least re-polished if not replaced.


Oh the McLeod branded clutch, was just a re branded Valeo. The FW is toast, has hot spots all over.

So I'm looking at a rebuild and new clutch setup.


Mmmm. Anybody have any idea on shops that have experience with LS1s (aluminum blocks) and are reasonably priced?

Called Troy at FPS. That's the one I know and is close to me. They are mostly known for higher performance Ford engine setups, but I asked if his shop has experience with LS and and he said yes. Prices seem good to me. If I bring the block disassembled, it starts at $350 for basic block work, crank turn $150, balance $125 for labor. Parts are nomial, so even with a bunch of options and extras like the morel lifters, probably still under $1,500. That doesn't seem too bad.

LUk (a German firm and GM OE) makes a Gold Pro Series. Lingenfelter used to sell these at around $700~, supposedly good for 700 ft/lbs. Rock Auto has them for $350~, that includes the FW, etc. Far as I can tell this would be an LS7 or LS7+ setup.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...798&cc=1361450

RA also has an Exedy setup for $450, but I can't find any reason it's better than the Luk except maybe in the disc material/design. But not clear specs.

I'm going to get a clutch before going to the machine shop since may was well get it balanced while it's apart. It's only $125 and may make a nice difference for overall smoothness on longevity.