Locating 5.0 Engine
 

It seems Pick a Part is having their next half off on Thanksgiving weekend. Who's in?

http://www.pickyourpart.com/sale/

Wish I could join you but I'll be out of town. I haven't gone to a junkyard in awhile.

I'm working Fri and Sat, but Sunday might work...

I am probably going to be helping with final prep on one of either of two cars that are going to be run at the 25 hours of Thunderhill. If we are done with that, I may come dumpster diving with you.

I will be gone the whole following week for the T25, but if we want to have a group work day after that some time, I would love to meet the car, and reacquaint myself with a few of you.

I'm in possibly as long as it doesnt clash with food events.

I have two junk yards within 10 mins of my house so we will be close to the fox

Pick Your Parts?

The link above is to a 50% off during Thanksgiving weekend at Pick Your Parts.

I can go. Just let me know what day. Just an fyi but the one in Ontario always has lots of Explorers. Last time I was there they had 5 complete 5.0 engines.

No we have ecology & pickapart out here.


The "your" confused me.

That pick a part is a little dirty but that have a lot more cool cars/trucks.

It's also not a Pick Your Part. Which I don't care about . . except for the 50% off part.

Ron, for reference what does a typical complete 5.0 from an Exploder cost at the Ontario Pick a Part?

I can also check my personal favorite, LKQ Corp., but they're a bit more expensive has they're already fully separated and ready to pick up on crates, but it would be the engine, trans, computer and harness. I'll have to check to see what they're running, but probably out of range for this project.

I think they are about 250 ish (with no warranty)

I hate to be a negative nancy, I'm usually of the just fucking do it mindset, but you may want to weigh your options.

Pick your part is getting way too expensive and becoming not even worth it. I went it for a jeep fender, which was listed at $40. Well the listing was out of date, it was really $50, then I had to pay a $20 core fee, then another $15 for a CA recycle fee ...ya. So it was $85 for the fender... plus tax. :o And by the time you've gotten yourself all cut and dirty, you'll pay whatever they ask up front.

We pulled a 4.10 LSD Exploder rear end for my friend's Ranger... that turned out to be like $200+ somehow... after all their bullshit math. :rolleyes2:

It's going to be a lot of work to pull the motor, and you'll have to drag your own hoist across the yard.

And then hopefully the motor which you made sure was freely spinning... doesn't have any lil head or block cracks or glazed cylinder walls.

I would definitely check craigslist and ebay for local listings first.

Good advice. That's one thing I like about LKQ Corp., you pick your shit up, pay for it, 90 day warranty. I'll check to compare prices

Yards provide hoists. If we have to hone it and ring it then so be it, another $40 for rings and $20 for bearings. If they want a core give them the piece of shit 4 banger.

They wont take the 4 banger as a good core. The block has been ventilated by a rod which wanted out.

We'll hide it then. Bondo does great things.

LKQ Corp. is running about $1k, including computer and harness. The engine itself is warranted, but that's a bit much.

That's ridiculous for unreliable 200hp.

It's probably fairly reliable at least. And they are very easy/cheap to make substantial power on. Not bad when an LS is still in the $2,500 range for a half decent one.

Plus when the ported heads are put on it will make substantially more hp then 200hp.

$1000 for a 2 - 3 decade old 200 hp motor is not reasonable.

Spend half that and get a carbureted SBC or a SBF. If this is a race car and you're not worried about dialing in a lean AFR at cruise and idle and part throttle, its easy as shit to tune for WOT.

Yes, it's more than I want to pay . . by a lot. I was looking <$400 engine, ecu, harness. Slap on some groovy heads from Guy's builder and call it a day. They're around, just have to keep our eyes open, but I'm not excited about cracking knuckles in a yard to get it into the car and have it go boom. That's the one big upside to LKQ Corp.

I know this is going to sound weird maybe, but what about just getting a new 2.3 block, have Guy's builder port the heads, and put on ghetto turbo setup (like off a SAAB/Volve). Yes some fab would be involved, but it'd be a poor mans SVO and since the power would be rolling on rather than hitting maybe we could get away with the stock trans and diff? Plus it would have "goofy factor". Injectors plus could rebuild the injectors. I'm assuming the ECU can be reflashed. Just a whacky idea. Remember that car as it sits ran fine until it pitched a rod. It is complete as it sits.

Do 5.0s share motor mount spacing with carbed SBFs and BBFs? You guys should find a BB from an old Ford truck, port that puppy and cam it up.

Intriguing. Though this car has to make turns and the Fox is fairly light. A BBF would probably yield something like 60/40 or worse weight distribution. :huh:

We don't have to worry about the cost of the 5.0. Remember, the documentation has to support how much we paid and I have a free '97 Explorer. Who says that the 5.0 we get didn't come from that? We can take pictures of it to show why it was free.

We can also use the carrier with ring and pinion from it along with the disc brakes. It has 3.73 gears which I think is a good ratio for Buttonwillow. The only thing is that Explorers have 31 spline axles and Mustangs have 28.

I have a 289 laying around. If you want it, it's yours. I pulled it out of a 65 Mustang. It ran fine when I pulled it. It just didn't have the power I wanted. You can't beat the price.

Is it a complete engine?

I PM'd a couple of guys about 5.0s they have for sale. One is a complete engine from a '75 F150 (read carb'd) for $100 the other is fuel injected from an F150 (non roller) for $200 and is also complete.

It's a complete longblock, no carb. It has the crank pulley and water pump, but I'm not sure about the rest of the brackets and pulleys. I'm pretty sure I don't have the alternator.

Just FYI guys there is no such thing as "free" in the rules

Where is all this $1000 unreliable engine talk coming from? Ive paid under $200 for complete engines intake to pan many times. Shit i GAVE away alot of those engines too. Let me dig, i will find.

Jeez, whiny people here you go, offer him $75 for the long block minus the heads, done.
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/2687138990.html

Seems like it's going to need a lot to finish it out. What about the FI one from Ron's friend, the F-150 for $200. That's the range I was looking in.

I have the FI intake for the engine, throttle body, everything. The f150 engine is non roller, and speed density which COULD work if we leave the truck intake on it and run a speed density computer. Actually scratch that, it will run like shit after the heads and cam redegree.

I say we ditch FI and go with a carb/intake. You can pick them up cheap at the hot rod swap meet. It would just be less to go wrong and less wiring to deal with.

What we spend on the carb and intake we can get the computer and harness. We'll see what we can come up with. I talked to shawn and he said the EFI cams run like shit in a carb setup.

You can pick up old holleys for $20 and intake for about the same.

With a non roller block we would just use a flat tappet. Besides I know a bunch of offroad trucks running B303 and E303 cams that run great.