Block filler.
 

Just reading up on 4.06 and 4.08 bores, for future reference. Looks like with over one bar block filler is reccommended. So what's the deal with this stuff? Can you pour it in on an engine stand and spin it aroud, do it yourself? Or how does it work? Does it make the engine run hotter?

Uh, what's block filler?

It's basically like cement. You pour it into the water jackets and it strengthens the bottom end of the block. Due to this it is not recommended for street cars. It is mostly used in drag cars that don't run long.

Adam, have you had the cylinder wall thickness checked? Why are you going to bore the block over that much? If it is just because you want to build the block you already have now I would just pick up another 350. You can pick them up for around $150. If you just want the extra cubes from a bigger bore, it's not worth it. I prefer the thicker walls for strength over the extra cubes.

I've got the heads on. I'm going to run it as is and see how it does. I was just thinking... if it doesn't run ok, or in the future.

I'd want to bore it over to get rid of the damage. If 4.04 didn't do it, I'd have to go 4.06, or 4.08. Which is when I'd want block filler.

I'd order lower compression pistons 2618 forged, and smaller HGs with the correct quench. Also a blower cam. Mmm. :D I think regardless of how it runs I'll treat myself once I get a job.

...Think I'd get some studs and girdles too. Do it right. So then, will the block filler make it run hotter???

Just save up and get a Dart block instead. Then you won't have to worry.

Wait... I just read something about this. Is block filler supposed to fill the whole block? Or just coat the insides??? I was thinking it was just moved around to give a coating and then poured out...

Is your BB a GM block?

You pour it in about half way up in the water jacket and leave it. That's why it doesn't work in a street car.

Yes, it is a factory 2 bolt GM block out of Phil's old '85 Suburban that he bought from our mom's cousin. The stock crank broke with about 200,000 miles on it. All it needed was a light hone and a line bore. I bought an Eagle cast crank and I'm using the original rods with ARP bolts.

Here's the instructions for Hard Block.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...str-022005.pdf

OIC, thought it was just a coating.

It's called block fill, not block coat. :nutkick:

Ditto on the Dart block. Ford Performance Solutions here in Anaheim sells a, let's say, very similar block, (yes Chevy as well as Ford) for rather less. . .

I third the dart block, sometimes i regret seling it, but then i remember what it got me.

If I did that I would have literally no GM parts in the engine. Haha. As of now I have no moving GM parts.

It wouldn't really be a SBC, it would be a small block Dart/ AFR/ Scat/ JE/ Edelbrock/ Harland Sharp/ Comp/ MSD/ Barry Grant.

And? It's SBC by form factor/basic design.

I know, I was just being silly.

...While also bragging about my build.

And it is funny that not one single piece of my entire engine would be from GM. How many things in the world can you do that with? Certainly not every engine. ...Some guns I'll bet.

Sadly only part of my engine that is ford is the block, probably the worst part to have too...
Someday I'll have a stroked ls7 but that's a long ways away

LS7 in your Fox? An FI LS7 or carbed?

Traitorous pig.

FI, I'm not a carb man.

Sonic, says the man with an ls powered vehicle :smack:

There's a long tradition of SBC's in Fords. :drink:

Personally I straight don't give a F*ck. Enkei and I want to put a 4-rotor in a 2nd Gen Camaro.

My issue isnt with an LS swap, id love an LS FD or some such. Rather my issue is that people sell the ford motors so short. Nothing that an LS can do that a big inch windsor cant, people just dont bother to do it. The windsor motor is a fantastic platform, and it just doesnt get the credit it deserves. :huh:

That's because of ease, convenience, rate of adoption, breadth of available parts and market prices, etc. It's probably more an economic distinction more than a technical one. I think BRUTAL64 said the big tipping point on this was back in the day when Edelbrock decided to focus on SBC over SBF. :huh:

But now that you mention it (and because I mortally hate GM) I wonder if one could do a Coyote motor into and FD. That'd be cool; a smooth DOHC in an FD. :thumbs_up:

I just wanna go really really fast.

I'm really trying not to be a fan boy, I'll include the Coyote if it makes you feel better because it makes my point too. 400 hp stock and 20mpg...just sayin'

Yeah, but if youre doing a swap into a different car, what does stock performance have to do with anything? Again, not hating on the LS, Hell, look what im driving. Just wish the windsor would get a little credit sometimes, ive built some affordable and very strong windsors, if you know which parts to replace first it can economically viable as well.

I'm with Sonic only because BBFs and SBFs can be built cheaply too. It wouldn't be worth the headache of swap headers, mounts, and custom wiring/ throttle actuation to swap in a motor that didn't fit (IF I had another option). But I could care less about putting a GM engine in a Ford. That is the description of virtually every 32 roadster out there.

I thought about going LS in my car, but went SBC because I didn't want to deal with everything I said above. ...Though, gas was low $2 a gallon at the time.

If I had a fox body, I would build the 5.slow with a centrifugal blower. That car just isn't pretty enough to derserve an LS motor. Haha, sorry Shaolin.

No I know what you mean, but you said "NOTHING" lol