Painting
 

Paint booth pics, day 1.

Eric

Bill

Adam

Cambria

Whatever color you paint it, that car is going to be sick!

:iagree:

I have to agree here. Just a DAMN FINE job you did. :hail:

+1 :hail:

not sure where your painting it but I work at a paint selling shop if you need the paint and at a good price PM me let me know what you want :)

Few weeks too late, I've got the HOK paint sitting in my room behind me. Thanks though!

:( well hopefully you got a great price for it :x I should have started posting here more often. GL what color did you end up going with

I did. I paid less at the paint shop than I would have had I bought it from TCPGlobal.

Spent about $1100 on everything. HOK Base, Pearl, Clear, PPG epoxy, SlickSand, and all of the reducers activators etc. I got about 30% off MSRP, probably 5 or 10% less expensive than TCP.

nice if you ever need anything else let me know :)

Skools out for winter, LSAT is done, Neon is fixed, no more excuses. Going to try and get the rough cut sanding done tomorrow. Then I'll spot prime as soon as Eric's Dad lets me come over. Then... 320 sanding, should go real quick, then... paint!!!

Should've knocked on wood. My hours tripled as soon as school ended... holiday season.

Anyhow, had a free day today. Got the windows out, the side view mirrors off, and finished block sanding and filling with glaze (gree stuff). Trying to decide now whether I should (or have the time) to spot prime then seal, or whether I should just reprime with epoxy primer and then topcoat the same day (no more sanding).

Anyone know the benefit to shooting reduced epoxy as opposed to straight epoxy?

Drying time. Reducers are especially important in cold weather. Also, a fast reducer would be better than a slow one.(Hot day)

You are moving right along with it. I finally got all fender seams finished today and smoothed out. im going to put some sealer on then get after all that primer work :judge:
My garage is friggn mess,looks like an explosion at the flour plant,i should have done this while it was still warm out :bang:

By reducer do mean thinner? What's a reducer? I don't know much about paint.

Reducer does the same thing as thinner.

Does the same thing or IS the same thing? In other words, if I go to X and buy a thinner, am I buying a reducer? Sorry to be so semantic, but just want to know.

I don't either. The only "P" word I know is primer.:smack:

They do the same thing,both thin the paint. But from what i understand (and i am no pro at this) the new paints/clear/primer use the reducer. I don't think you can use thinner in place of reducer,when reducer is called for.

sorry but that is all i know about it :huh: which aint much :o

Laquer uses thinner

Enamels use reducer

They are both "thinners", but "reducer" simply means a thinner compatible with alkaloids.

You mean like a battery? :smack: Got it. Thanx for the clarification.

Thanks Bird,i knew there was a good explanation for it (read it somewhere once) but for the life of me,i could not remember :bang:

Here's the reasoning behind the sealer (reduced epoxy primer) that I got from the autobody forums.

The primer will go on "clumpy" and the sealer will go on nice and even. Better to shoot over. So I guess shooting over a sealer will yield a more glass like appearance in the end.

Guess I've got some more sanding to do. :(

I thought you were supposed to put the sealer on first then primer :confused:
or maybe it was sealer,primer,sealer shit,i better do some more research because thats where i'm at now with my re-paint.

Not what I've been told, but it's not going to hurt anything.

I've been told, epoxy, the surfacer, then glaze & sand, then spot prime & sand, then seal...

I skipped the first step. I didn't see the need for an epoxy base, seeing as how I went to bare SMC & the surfacer that I used is a polyester surfacer.

The largest amount of product in what you are doing is elbow grease.:smack:

Ok i think you and I are on the same wave length here but have a different terminology for the products.
Except for the GLAZE & Sand,what are you doing here :huh: i have not herd of the Glaze,can you explain what it is :o
Remember i am a NOOB at this :judge:

Spot glaze is a tube of putty that requires no hardner(Aerobic). It is only good for pinholes and such. Zero strength.

OK,i have that, tube called Icing,but it does require a hardener.

im guessing he is taling about a spot putty like this

It's a 2K glaze from Evercoat.

Spot priming tomorrow btw. :D

Good stuff...expensive, but good.

Thanks for the info guy's :thumbs_up: i'm applying epoxy tomorrow,i was reading the tech sheet on it again and noticed i have 3 days to top coat it,or i have to scuff and shoot again :suicide:
Nothing like a little pressure to make things go smooth :damit:

Spot primed. Going to buy some sanding sponges and get this bitch done. Just need to let the primer harden for 24 hours.

I like it that way. That is way cool.:D

let me know when you guys need paint supplies I can get all those putty's and sand paper bondo. . . pm me what you need and ill order the stuff for you

The date is set. Wed, 9am Jan 7. Are you excited?

Actually,yes.

What's the plan: paint, clear, wetsand, buff?

I wish.

The plan is, tomorrow, to finish sanding with the 320 grit. And sand the headlights and gas cap lid and rocker panels. Possibly remove trim around window. Also, sand the lights.

Tuesday, gun should arrive in the mail, I will take it out of the box and pet it for several hours.

Wednesday:

1)Drive to Resurrection Rods get the car in the booth, jack it up, remove the wheels, mask it off.
2)Straight epoxy prime door jambs and rocker panels.
3)Seal the entire car with reduced epoxy primer, and the hood, T-Tops, etc. (Allow to flash)
4)Spray the black HOK base.
(Allow to flash)
Repeat, at least once, probably twice.
5)Spray the trim and rockers black.
6)Spray the HOK pearl.
(Allow to flash)
Repeat, at least once, probably twice.
7)Spray the HOK clear.
(Allow to flash)
Repeat, at least once, probably twice.
8)Spray the rocker panels and trim with clear, over the black.
9)Use the left over clear, add candy black tint, spray the tail lights and side marker lights.

Allow to dry over night in the booth. Pick it up Thursday and begin reinstallation of everything that I removed, such as the windows and door locks, and the hood, etc.

Still haven't decided if I want to color sand. If it goes on nice and smooth, I might not. I don't want to sand the clear thin if I don't have to. I will polish and buff at least though.