Leaky clutch slave or fitting?
 

Has anyone taken the braided hose off of their clutch slave before? Mine is leaking at the fitting, wondering if there is a seal in there, or what's leaking.

The fittings can leak if they get loose, but don't know why they would. I have a quick release, which has an o-ring in it AIR, and it no leaky.

Could leak from the fitting, or it might be leaking from the threads themselves. Put a wrench on it and tighten it down and see what happens.

No threads. This comes as a sealed unit master/ slaved with fluid in it from the factory. Looks like I have to hammer out a dowel pin and it will just pop out.

Are you sure it's not a quick release?

Thanks btw Ben, your fitting is prob the same as mine I would think. Since your assembly looks like mine with a hyd throwout. I'll take it apart

Dont know what that is

I'm going on memory here, so be ware. But It should look like this and requires a special tool I think.

I though I heard a slight whistle from the master, so I started pushing on the salve with my hand and listening for the leak, as I did, the slave exploded all over my hand. Like a 15 year old with a picture of Heidi Klum.

Are there any places that will extend my hydraulic cable and make it a bit longer?

There is that shop next to the Muffler Man that does hoses and fittings. I forget their name.

Next to OC driveline?

If you don't find a place I can look through my conversion receipts to find the place that made mine. They were very good, not cheap, but very good. AIR, they were up in Anaheim hills somewhere. All they do is hydraulic and fuel lines, special fittings etc. They made the hydraulic line that goes from my Chevy 1 Ton MC to stock hydraulic throwout bearing.

You used a truck MC? Why not just use the LS1 setup? It worked for me and other c3 guys

See my conversion thread. It mates to the C3 firewall without modification (other than the rod length connecting to the clutch pedal.)

Yeah, that place.

No shit... maybe I should upgrade while my cylinders are out

It works great, but remember it means modifying the rod lenght, which to do right means machine shop, and it means a special hydraulic cable from the truck MC to the throwout bearing. It looks stock(ish) and works well, especially with the fitment to the firewall. One other small note, the stroke and bore is slightly different than the LS MC, it works out to be a little more force application necessary to get the same movement in the throwout. Anyway, it's what I did and what I'd do again, but it does have those couple gotchas.

Eh, fuck it. Ha