My other pony "Dedicated Service"
 

So the time has come to finally pull the stock engine out of my 87 which i placed there for inspection and smog purposes temporary far too long ago. I originally planned a F1c power dart 347 that quickly was changed to a 600rwp N/A 347 since i did not want to deal with heat soak, then i came to the realization that a $20k motor was just not a smart thing to do and sold the dart motor to help with purchasing my new truck.

I then started the most inexpensive budget build i could using stuff i bought off CL/Corral/etc Finally on friday of last week i dropped everything off at the machine shop for work and assembly, normally I would build it myself but Shawn(my engine builder) said he wouldnt charge me extra to assemble the motor since he needs to do the clearancing for the crank, boring for the pistons, porting, head rebuild, tapping the block to 1/2" etc etc. All for the measly price of $600, which is nothing by todays standards of engine work. Considering im getting very extensive porting done to the heads, port matching done to my intake and changing the block to 1/2" threads.

So here is the plan for the engine, starting at the intake and working my way down.

Edelbrock RPMII Intake (custom powder coated) $350
Comp Cams Magnum roller rockers $350 (christmas present)
Comp Cams .105 wall pushrods $180 (christmas present)
Morel Link Bar lifters $350
Ed Curtis custom grind cam .373/.359 230*/240* 113/110 $350
Scat 347 "long" block and AFR 185 heads $1100
Stock Block $ Being Rons powder coating bitch
Race coated pistons rings, main bearings, and rod bearings $165
Melling high volume oil pump $45 (left over from my engine sale)
Procomp Head Studs $35
Procomp main studs $35
Procomp 7/16 rocker studs $35
MLS Head gaskets $65 (2)
Main Seal $15
Misc gasket set $85

Puts me at $3225(not bad) for major engine parts, i still need a few things like injectors, MAF, water pump and the like but those wont take long

Here is a picture of my parts shelves before i went over there


Hoping for 400rwhp minimum but my lofty goals would be 450rwhp

Going into this






I'll keep y'all updated

Cool! I look forward to getting back to the Vette someday and get up towards 440WHP (I'm 390whp now with some easy power on the table with headers and a retune). Probably by the time I get to it it'll be what a stock Accord has. :smack:

Yeah 450 will be easy for an LS1 not so much for a naturally aspirated sbf

It's the boundary for a smog legal LS1. Mine is measured as a 2001 F Body, which is a ULEV. My 114LSA 224/224 cam is as big as you can get. BUT from where I'm at, headers and reworked exhaust, rockers and lifters, I think 430~ is plausible. I'm 3,100 lbs full wet, so that's not shabby. And in a chassis designed in the late 50s offers plenty of opportunity for amusement (fear).

My car weighed 2950 with me before this motor, now with aluminum heads and removing whats left of the insulation on the firewall i missed i should be down to 2850 or less with driver. Means either way i'll be cresting tens if i launch off the limiter

Had i not extensively upgraded the chassis im sure it would scare the shit out of me

I might have another 100lbs total relatively easy weight to reduce. but I can't get down as far as you without really going nuts. However, the good part is that a huge amount of that is unsprung, so the benefits are substantial. I still dig my radio, A/C, etc., I'm looking for a sexy, but relatively comfortable cruiser/brawler with both straight line and handling performance. A por mans', American flavored, Ferrari if you will. :) I'll get there someday.

Thats how i envision my car, but i have no heat, a/c, sound insulation etc. But i have gotten the car to pull a 1.1g with the nt05's and a 1.34 using an autometer dpic gauge. Not too shabby for an old mustang

There is a fine line between exhilarating and having the shit scared out of you. That sounds like a beastly build. I am impatiently waiting for updates haha.

What compression ratio are you going to run?

Depending on how far the piston is in the bore, and actual volume of the heads etc Anywhere from 10.88:1 to 11.2:1

What fuel are you going to run? That's a little high for 91 without pulling a lot of timing.

i'll pull timing for the street, i hear conflicting reports all the time saying 11:1 is fine for 91 and some say 10.5:1 is too much for 91. Cases of torco are relatively inexpensive and if i do end up needing more i have friends at downs ;)

I think it depends a lot on the design of the head, piston, etc. The design of the 302 is not as good as say an LS where you can run higher compression. I think you're going to end up having to run either a slash of 100 or 110 or some Torco.

If I'm running race fuel I'll run straight 110 and enjoy the benefits, but I should be able to get away with a bottle of torco per tank will fix

One thing about Mufstains is that the aftermarket support is miles ahead of my Eclipse. When I get rid of the GTO, I'm thinking of getting one like yours.

I'll be here to help, restorations and suspension for mustangs are my bread and butter. Plus I have all the specialty suspension tools as well, bumpsteer gauge etc

I'm not much of a Ford fan, but I'll turn to the "dark side" for an easily modified car.

Parts for foxes are cheap

My heads (milled 4.8 truck heads) were advertised at like 11.1:1. On hot days in the summer, it'll knock. Of course the CA summer blend *might* have something to do with it. I've since gone to a 160 Tstat, which should help too, but I've traditionally run roughly a cup of Torco per 15 gal tank, and that gave the slight margin I needed. I worked out the calcs once and it was something like 92-3 octane when I was done. HOWEVER, I did and still do have some fairly gnarly back pressure, which raises combustion temps even further, so some good headers and that problem might be gone altogether on 91.

I'll know more exactly what it is when I get back and the engine is finished

That and you can damn near build a whole car from aftermarket parts.

As I did, the only ford parts left is the original chassis, 95 cobra brakes, m179 cobra rims, engine block, wiring harness and the interior plastic parts. Everything else has been changed to aftermarket parts, probably have 20k if not more into the chassis before motor, obviously you don't need to go that extreme to get a nice handling driver but I wanted to build a car that could out perform a c6z

You don't need to do anything to a Mustang to take a C6Z on a road course. Have you ever been on a road course with one? The owners drive like grandmas in the corners and then floor it in the straights. I pretty sure I could take one in my Suburban. :lmfao:

The last time I ran the Cobra at CSW there were three C6Zs in my run group and I laped all three. One of them took me two laps to pass though because he wouldn't point for me to pass (we were allowed to pass without a point by). I just stayed on his bumper and on the second lap he finally did.

I wanted it to be able to best the car not the driver :rolling:

It is cheaper to be the better driver.

I agree, but its also cheaper to replace the shitty parts on a car with good aftermarket replacements.

So yesterday we got back from vegas so i stopped in at my builder to see how progress is going, my builder spent more time on the heads than originally thought but it was worth the time, plus his dad left for hawaii so it will be some more time, which is fine since he is taking care of me, here are some pics of one of the heads

Real pretty!

I wish my chambers and ports looked like that.

They arent done yet, he says he wants to smooth them some more and do some more work on the valve pockets, heads should flow quite well

Thanks to a very kind indivual from corner carvers I am getting one of these for a very good price
http://www.jegs.com/i/G-Force%20Tran...0002/-1?CT=999
Also, heads are done...


Plus i coated my brand new oil pan

You want to sell that valve spring pressure checker??


Mine was stolen.:(

Ha, that was my builders. Mine isnt nearly as "sophisticated"

So ive been reading about dog ring straight cut transmissions and obviously they are difficult to drive compared to a synchro tranny when it comes to the street. But is unmatched when it comes to the road course. Found out the tranny is also VERY expensive. Little video of the same transmission in action
And here is the price list for the tranny.
http://www.gforceracing.com.au/pdf/T...ICE%20LIST.pdf

Are you familiar with Jerico trans? It's what the big boys use in a lot of series. Any trans that says "starts at $5,000" better rock.

http://www.jericoperformance.com/5speedroad.htm

The jerico and dog ring gforce are the same transmission. They both run about the same money and thanks to a very rich member on corner carvers who went out and bought a brand new fr500 really helped me out by letting me have it for 800.

He didnt just help me, he sold his entire car off by parting it out and accepting peoples first offers and then stuck the rest on ebay with no researve starting at .99.

Nice that rich people pay it forward sometimes.

Actually those prices are pretty reasonable. One of my friends paid $4000 for a set of custom gears for his transmission. He kept stripping third gear.

Bob

Yeah im not unhappy at all.

Ya those are cool. You can powershift a normal trans if you really want to. That's the only way to shift a dirt bike when you're racing.

I really want to put a Mendeola in the back of a truck someday. It would be so fun.

Clutchless shifting is different than power shifting. The reason for the dog rings is syncros dont like to shift above 6500rpm and my cam makes power to 7k