Widen Rims?
 

Does anyone know a shop that does this? Or a general cost to widen rims? I'm talking about, slicing them down the center, adding material and rewelding.

I ain't gonna lie. I've never even heard of such a thing. I would think you'd simply be better off selling your existing rims, combining proceeds with what something like this might cost (to do properly) and buy a new set of rims at the desired width. :huh:

Chuck and I found a guy who said he could this type of thing. Picked up the wheels, had them for 2 months, sent them back and said he can't do it :smack:

Here's a company I know some Mustang guys have used with success.

Awesome, thanks Joe. Need to offset my trailing arms then I will be doing this. I plan to go in as far as possible, without cutting the frame. It would be so nice to get some 335s back there.

You can off set the tailing arms quite a bit, but the upper frame is the issue. Do some measuring and (IF I remember correctly) there is not as much room that you think there is.

Gay. Have people been notching the frame or what do they do?

Mostly crying alot. I don't remember the exact measurment, you could notch the frame but it would be easier to go out-ward extending your fenders out also. Your paint is fresh so you will not notice it after you paint it.:boggled:

No flares.

Then you're pretty limited. Going off memory, I think something like a 10" rim with 305~ is the max you can get under the body with the offset trailing arms. But, 305 in something sticky (you aren't putting a lot of miles on it) wouldn't be bad at all.

Yea, if you could get that to fit--then maybe:motorsmile:

Correct answer. Now you know why Greenwood and Guldstrand made wide bodies. The offset T/A's give you a tad, and relocate the ebrake cable, but your limited by the frame. Flares are the answer. "You can't have your pudding till you eats your meat."

I noticed that the other day when I stuck my head under there. Actually I really don't even see how offset trailing arms would make a difference.

I thought about doing flares when I was doing body work but I don't like the way they look. Looks like gummy bear tires will be my best option. I think with some Hoosiers 295s on my 19s I should be able to stop crying about traction so much.

Do you guys think my diff will hold up to this? How about my clutch? My clutch is supposed to be good for only 500 ft/ lbs.

No, I snap the inner stub axles on my Vette if I power shift from first to second. Done it twice. Once with an LT1 motor with dual quads and second with a 400 with dual quads.:crutches:

There's obviously ways to do it. I remember the guys at Legendary Motor Cars built up an old C3 with a nutty L88 that was like 700HP and sticky tires and it didn't break anything. I forget his name, bird knows, maybe Glenn too, but there's an old timer on Vettemod that is the guru for the netire C3 stock rear end, including building super tough 12 bolt diffs, custom offset TAs, etc. etc.

Then I guess I'll try to make my Nittos last till I'm out of school and have a job. :(

Tom Diffs in Paramount is the 12 Bolt king for the C2 and C3s.

GTR1999 on Vettemod.com is the best I know of for the 8.2 Vette Diffs.

Yep. Except I believe Tom sold out to a guy in Idaho. Gary (GTR1999) knows the scoop. The 12 bolt set up is pretty killer. Then, you can start snapping something else. TimAT is afraid if he ever hooks that LS-7 hard, he'll grenade all kinds of shit.

Did he finally get some wide tires under there?

I talked to Gary already before I installed the blower. He says the weak links are the side yokes, the ring gear bolts? and the posi clutches. I guess I could take it apart and just upgrade all of that stuff and see if it holds. Before I dump 3.5K into a 12 bolt.

I wouldn't bother till it grenades, but if I were you, I'd install safety yokes, so that when it goes, you don't have a half shaft up your ass.:D
Before you spend any more $$ on upgrades, I would install an SFI bell housing, flywheel, and saftey yokes. :thumbs_up:
Right now, your tires are the "saftey valve." Hook them up hard, and it will become somewhere else.;)

I asked this question on VM with no response. Who makes a safety bellhousing for the T56? And will it fit in my tunnel? I'll answer the 2nd question for you. No.

Call McLeod they are local. They do safety bellhousings.:drink:

Nothing is going to fit in my tunnel. And Mc Leod would want too much money.

ATI Makes one for a lot less. As for fitment I don't know, good question. As for cost, how much are your feet worth?

ATI SFI Bellhousing

That's not going to bolt up to a T56. This is the problem I keep posting to everyone. That looks like it's for a SB to a 4 speed.

You didn't say anything about cost.:boggled:

OK, but does Mc Leod even make a bellhousing for the T56?

Someboday asked about this on VM awhile back, and Marck had the answer. I can't find it now.:uh:

Know anybody that does fiberglass?:nutkick:

Our tunnels are steel.

Well then I guess that's permanent and unchangeable..:inout:

You founf it Bird, nice. $500 :o

TT found it. Just write it off as necessary. When you REALLY hook up, the rules change. Gotta remeber, these things were designed to work with nylon cord tires. Excess HP just became smoke.:lmfao:

It'll make sense to do this when I do the clutch, and tires. After watching that vid on VM of the exploding clutch I don't think it will be a good idea to have an underrated clutch with sticky tires.

Alot of people look into C4 rear end when swapping LS's into FC's for more strength and more gearing options so you might look into that. Not sure what kind of power they can take but the TII rear can take upwards of 500hp and the C4 swap is said to be a substantial improvement.

But if your looking for strait line traction and grenade proofing, a 12 bolt or 9 inch would probably be a better investment.

I lokked into this quite a bit for our project car, RX-Snake an FC with blown SBF. It seems how much the TII unit will handle is highly traction dependent (as always). There's guys running them with big power LS motors, but on street tires and as bird says, it just gets turned into smoke. On sticky rubber 400-450WHP seems about it. Ford 8.8/9" is the way to go if you go much beyond this. We plan an 8.8.

You're right about the C4 Dana 44 as a good replacement for C3s, but the 12bolt is the best big power sticky option. Neverthless, at 390WHP I've gotten dozens of drag radial launches on my C3 aluminum Dana 44 . . .