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- Engines, Transimissions, Suspension, etc. (http://www.motorgen.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=98)

- - Head Studs vs. Head Bolts (http://www.motorgen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40450)

Quote:

Originally Posted by fiveohwblow (Post 100058)

My point was its just subjective. I run my junk hard too.

I have been told by everyone and their dog that revs kill them also. I take mine to the 6200 redline I have set every time it runs. Not sure if that's considered high by all, but by most I guess it is *shrugs*

If you're shifting at or near redline its not high at all. The blue car is nearly indetical to Rons motor so should run as such. The race car however is projected to have a 7500 rpm red line and a 7k shift point. I dont expect 100k out of it

Quote:

Originally Posted by enkeivette (Post 100074)

Add 13lbs of boost on a motor setup to produce 450hp NA and youll get a better idea how I screwed up a rocker stud. Plus I spin to 6500, rev limiter is set for 7k, and Ive hit it.

The Chevelle put 461 to the wheel NA and I also shift at 6500 and spray a 250 shot with 12.25:1 compression. I've never had an issue with a rocker stud.

Dont remember, and now you have ;) Ps, the only GM part on my engine is the block and the dist clamp. Theyre AFR studs, a top of my sexy AFR heads.

AFR studs are just standard sbc studs. Nothing special about them.

Youre saying AFR studs are OEM for GM? :p

Question, I'm looking at replacing the main bolts. Looking at ARP bolts and studs, they both have the same tensil strength. Why are the studs way more expensive? Is it worth the extra cash if they have the same tensil strength? Common sense tells me no.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Damian (Post 100120)

Guy briefly stated the same thing earlier, but:

Quote:

Torque Efficiency

During engine assembly or maintenance, a bolt must be installed by torqueing it into place. Due to the head bolt’s design, it has to be rotated into its slot in order to engage the threads and secure it into place. This process creates both twisting force and a vertical clamping force, which means that when the cylinders within the engine’s combustion chamber begin accumulating load, the bolt will both stretch and twist. Because the bolt has to react to two different forces simultaneously, its capacity to secure the head is slightly reduced and it forms a less reliable seal in high-powered engines.

By contrast, a head stud can be tightened into place without any direct clamping force applied through the tightening. A stud can be threaded into a slot up to “finger tightness,” or the degree to which it would be tightened by hand. Afterward, the cylinder head is installed and a nut is torqued into place against the stud. The nut torque provides the clamping force, rather than the torque of the fastener itself, and the rotational force is avoided entirely. Because the stud is torqued from a relaxed state, the pressure from the nut will make it stretch only along the vertical axis without a concurrent twisting load. The result is a more evenly distributed and accurate torque load compared to that of the head bolt. This ultimately translates into higher reliability and a lower chance of head gasket failure.

http://www.thomasnet.com/articles/ha...ead-stud-bolts

Starting to get silly, it is a budget motor. Id just reuse the old shit. If ford heads are defunct thats one thing, but bolts for everything else. Id even reuse the HG if it was an MLS. Ive reused mine 3 or 4 times, just copper spray it.

Piston rings too, theres really no reason you cant reuse them, especially if you kept them in order.

I don't know what you're talking about? This is a technical discussion of bolts vs. studs, not so much specific application. You're assuming Snake only. The Snake is not so much a budget motor (probably around 500-550BHP with a roots blower) compared to the lemon Fox, for which duct tape would be sufficient if it works. Studs $55 . . .that's free. The rings are already replaced and installed. Done.

This was to answer Damian's specific technical question.