Does the a/c need to be charged?
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You money hound! Yes it does.
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Ha, was just asking.
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How much? I had to drain the whole system.
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Same price as always $100 flat plus parts. Hit up ed's for a drier, unless you want to risk running the old one. For $35 its cheap insurance. Then where ever you can find some r12. There's a bunch on CL usually. If you find a buttload for cheap i'll go in on some cans with you since I need some for the 88
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I think mine was converted, Ill have to look again though.
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How well did it work? Usually the conversion sucks cause the compressor cant move the r134 the same way as r12
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It actually worked really good. So Ill look for r12.
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Ill look for some and I have to wait a bit to have you do it since I had to buy a new phone today.
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Buy the r12 and i'll fill it and we'll take care of the payment later. It's getting hot so we'll keep you from sweating.
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I found two people fairly local that have r12 and quite a few on ebay.
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People are always tossing them on CL, sometimes cheap, sometimes a buttload.
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I ordered my dryer last night.
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Very nice
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Ive been trying to figure out why I couldnt go above 10.5psi ever since I got the truck running again. Earlier today when I started the truck to go to school, something sounded like it was rubbing and then it just stopped. Okay, so I went to school. Went to look and see what the noise was and I found a good chunk of my fan shroud missing. I also checked my air filter to see how dirty it was, its not that old at all, and it was soaked in oil from before. Ran it without the filter and bam, 14.5-15psi, like its supposed to do. Soaking filter in some dish soap right now.
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Why was the filter covered in oil?
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From the valve cover that had the blown piston, a lot of oil mist was blowing out of the vent which goes into the air intake tube directly on the air filter. I cleaned a bunch of oil out of the tubing but I guess I never cleaned the filter.
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Oh that makes since now lol I would just replace the filter and not worry about it any more.
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I would but it's a K&N that I had to order.
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Today my truck almost went up in flames, well it seemed like it. The wiring for the alarm to the horn for the alarm and the horn itself decided it wanted to short out inside the horn and cooked pretty good. No clue how it happened, just driving down the street, almost home. So now my alarm has no horn.
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Finally found a swaybar from a newer Blazer 2 door and and made a huge difference. Best $50 mod so far.
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Quote:
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It was a bit unstable, it's a lot better now. I haven't done a good off ramp/on ramp test yet, but so far so good.
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It needs a panhard style brace in the back to cure washyness, a swaybar will only bandaid the problem.
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Quote:
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Where did you get it from?
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Which? The shocks? I had a 2002 4.3liter auto S-10 extreme to begin with... but guys sell the take off bilsteins for decent prices. And I had almost 100k miles on mine and they were rock solid. Or you can do a beltech drop and be real low with some bad ass shocks. Also the extremes come with some heftier sway bars than stock s-10s did as I recall. Either way the pan hard bar suggestion will help handling more than a drop or shocks. The springs on the back of the Chevy mini trucks are more for comfort than for anything else. The rear end has a tendency to wrap so you have to stabilize that first, before you go for power or handling really.
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Any panhard brace is probably custom made, there's a dude in rancho that makes them for the lightnings, all years, i'm sure he can do one for you. I'll ask my buddy how to get a hold of him.
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Can he do a watts link? A lot of s-10 guys run a watts setup instead of a pan hard. I had a 1inch panhard on mine and it worked ok but if I get an s-10 again in the future I would do a watts linkage if I kept the leaf springs, instead of going with a 3 link like I really want.
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I can do anything the 2 door guys do. Not many Typhoon guys do much as far as corner handling. The guys that do probably work for a shop. I don't want to go crazy with the suspension, but front coil overs will be done to get rid of the torsion bars and all that's related with them.
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Personally i swould run a panhard bar
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Im researching those, but no one of the S10 forum has either for performance reasons. They just use them for their airbags.
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What about something like his: http://thorbros.com/4-link-kits/thor...s10-3-link-kit
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That looks sweet. A buddy of mine ran a similar kit with airbags on his Blazer/S10.
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Try and find something that mounts to a spot other then the cover. Honestly wouldnt be hard to make a panhard bar for it. Maybe Ron or John wants to make a little cash and make you one? Dont want to sound like i'm volunteering them, if i was a better welder I would.
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I'll probably go with a panhard bar, but I really do like the Watts bar.
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I would not trust how they mount to the diff cover.
What axle do you have now? 10 bolt, 12 bolt? |
10 bolt.
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I give up. I changed out the belt, power steering pump and then the steering box and the problem still persists. The belt appears to be plenty tight, power steering fluid level is good. The a/c is off as well. Screaching noise only starts when I'm barely moving and making a turn say into a parking stall, when the steering wheel is turned 50-75% in either direction. Doesn't make the noise if I'm not moving at all and doesn't make the noise if I'm driving at street speed.
Does anyone have any idea as to what the problem could be? Anything I need to check? |
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