Sorry I didn't call Ben, phone died. I was in AZ this weekend, sorry I couldn't make it. But like I said, I'm up in OC practically every weekend. Normally free all day Sat till night and Sun till about 4. Anyways it looks like you guys do just fine without :D That front bumper is looking snaaazy.

Shoot some primer before cancer sets in, just spot prime, cover up the glass. Or order some epoxy and I'll buy that gun and I'll do it.

Oh yeah, Aaron dropped off his gun and welder. We just need some primer to protect.

What does the welder's nameplate say as to "Input circuit required." Or, "maximum fuse/CB size"?

It's a Lincoln Electric Pro Mig 135. All it says on the front is:

For use on a 20A branch circuit. If used on a circuit protected by fuses, use time delay fuses marked (D).

Don't forget to weld up that front fender lip. And feel free to dremel away any welds that look like they'll rise up too high.

120 or 240v?

Sorry. 120.

What quality of primer do we need? In the near term the point is to cover any bare metal spots to prevent flash rust. Of course, there isn't much point in covering anything in a poor or incorrect primer that'll have to be sanded off just the flash rust would.

Epoxy is best for bare metal. For now I would hit it with some PPG black (epoxy primer). If you want to save money and only use one type of primer, we could prob get away with using only surfacer, which would be Slick Sand (Evercoat). We will need the surfacer either way to block out those grooves in the door that will be wavy regardless of how much we sand them.

Here's a wee lil' Time Lapse from the last few days of creating the buck for the mold for the front bumper.