I like this one too. |
Adam or somebody would need to redo this on the computer. But you get the idea.
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FYI - I going to make a section for Motorgen project cars and break out the threads and posts into main subjects. It's obvious this is going to get totally out of control trying to do it in one thread. |
Nah, I'm done. I need to do more hw. Yes, I have hw before school starts, and lots of it. How awesome is that?
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BTW, if we're going to be putting crazy snake logos all over the car, you might want to consider a green pearl over the white. It wouldn't look as sexy, but it goes more with the snake theme. Just a thought. If you look at the lower panel (looks like green pearl over black) this is why I decided against blue pearl over black. The black will sometimes take on the color the the pearl. Flares, not what I was thinking, but possible. |
Universal type. I could mold these in and smooth them out to the body, they'd be much easier to do. But I could do it either way, well leave that for the polls.
I'd kinda like to make glass replicas of the bumpers and customize them to be more flat and hang lower to the ground. Nothing fancy, just more Nascar like. That would definitely be a process though, because I would be venturing into new waters, deep waters. But I'm sure I could make it happen given enough time. |
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Here is the logo enkeivette did. I was thinking about something along these lines as well. I think that the scales were a little too much so I removed them This is just a rough concept drawing.
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Remember we must keep Brutal happy. Yes, we do. |
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Looks good Adam. How about with the snake in front of the x?
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:confused::bang::leaving: |
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Ya, I agree, a more serious font would do the trick. I did it by hand because I had a hard time finding an R that was thick enough to be a snakes tail. |
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I like this idea. I'll support you however I can and we can begin soon. Check the development phases in the main thread. I'm trying to keep the whole project within six months. |
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well guys if you decide with anything from House of Kolor I can get you a great price on everything from paints sandpaper and all that fun stuff. :)
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I've been thinking about this, if we don't need a paint job that will last 20 years on this car, it would be best not to strip this thing down to bare metal/ plastic. (Just in the places that it needs to be, for body work).
Skipping this step will allow us to save many hours stripping (and dollars on sand paper and chemical strippers), and more importantly it will allow us to skip the primer surfacer phase (which will save another $100, more sand paper, and many, many more hours guide coat/ block sanding). I vote to feather edge scratches and simply scuff the factory paint with 400 (maybe cover with epoxy if funds allow) or maybe 600 if we dont prime and take down only the places to receive body work to bare metal. This will save A LOT of time. Fender flares! There are a few routes. If someone wants to cough up $150 for these: We can do it the easy way, I would outline where they are to be mounted, cut the metal fenders off the car, and glue/ screw/ mold these in place. (I should have enough of that $50 glue left to do this) This will buy us about 2 1/2" of track width, not very much. Or, I could space these out, and fill in the gap with glass, then mold them in transition smothly. (Unless these are bolt on replacements, that would be too easy.) Or we could do it the hard way. :D I was thinking that I could lay some foam on the car, and cut away till we get the shape that we like. Then lay out a set of our own in glass, cut away the metal, bond them in place, and spend lots of time with filler shaping them to get it looking good. This will obviously take A LOT longer, but we would be able to make them as wide as we want and I should be able to do it for about $40 (Since I should have enough resin already). |
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Instead of a 20 year quality paint job, would this be a good 5 year durabilty? How about other issues like final finish? Could it still be color sanded to at least slightly better than OEM orange peel? BTW, what bout touch ups on pearl paint job. I'm thinking maybe to just go with a flat arctic white and candy letters. THe pearl would look great, but this car is gonna see a lot of action and I'm wondering how that pearl is going to look if it needs to be touched up several times.:huh: Or is it candy that's near impossible to match, I get confused. Quote:
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Pearl are almost impossible to touch up, candies are worse. The best way to do it is to sand down the entire panel, mask the rest of the car, and touch up the base, blend the pearl, then re-clear. If you want to do it, we should do it, have no fear.
The problem with taking it down to bare metal is that we will wave the body, this will need to be reconciled with high build surfacer and careful block sanding. If you only scuff the factory finish, it is not an issue. We can just pay attention to getting the body work straight. If you really want to take it down to the substrate, we can do it and the paint will last longer, much longer, but expect to spend at least another 3 weeks with 3 or 4 guys working on it. You could also try media blasting. I'm not so sure how this works, and if it will require surfacer afterwards, I can find out. But I have no experience with this. |
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Thanks for the additional info. See my post about registration in the main thread. It looks like this will be a trailer queen. Please talk to your buddy and see exactly what he did. I'm leaning towards scuff the paint and go with a non-pearl solid color with candy letters for this project. The next (yes, there will be more) maybe we could step it up with going down to the body and doing a more extravagant paint job. I think I'd like to use those off the shelf flares. But would, if you are down, go after the redone bumpers. I think this is focusing on a strong but manageable challenge. This is going to involve you A LOT, what do think of that direction? |
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As you've seen my paint/ prep posts I'm sure you realize that the actual paiting does not take very long. So if you want to do the pearl, like I said, aint no thang. I'm down for doing the body work, just like anything, I'm sure after a few minutes of watching you'll want to step in and try it out. Like all of this stuff it can be learned easily. The bumper will be difficult, but doable I think. And I'll stop by my friend's house and see what's up with his Ranger. |
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So here's what we're gonna do. Scuff Factory paint, not go down to body Blue Pearl over white, using cost effective method as described above Off the shelf flares Dedicated bumper work As for paint supplies, kameleongt can hook us up. Please make a preliminary list of the amount of the materials you guess will be needed. Primer White Base Blue Pearl Clear Orange Candy Sand Paper and any other prepping supplies you think might be necessary. As for the bumpers, I have a reasonably well equipped woodworking garage. My brother nad I can build a buck if that's a process you want to explore. |
I've been thinking about the best way to do this... There are two options that I'm considering.
The ideal way to do it would be to remove the bumper, add on to it with metal and foam to get the shape that we want. Create a fiberglass mold. And lay out a piece in the mold. The problem with this is that we would need to buy a lot more resin and matte, molds need to be thick. And this would be a BIG one. The other way, more cost effective (I'm thinking about $14 for some matte). Would be to cut the bumper in half (right at the seam) and make a fiberglass piece to replace the old piece (more like a nascar front end) and bolt it on to the remaining portion of the bumper. Unfortunately since this is a plastic bumper, we can't mold into it. Unless I learn/ get creative with plastic welding. |
This looks pretty cool, he trimmed the rear bumper and ditched the mouldings. I'd love to do this, but I don't see how we could fill the moulding on the rear bumper. We'd have to make a glass bumper for the rear also. And we'd definitely have to make one for the front, not just an attachment.
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Also the tail lights are ugly and need to be blacked out. Needs to happen, sorry. :judge:
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Bump.
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Drove by, didn't see his truck. I'll drive by again tomorrow. What did they tell you at the DMV?
I find it hard to believe that all of the cars (some of them being post 75 Corvettes) that attend the Tri City park car shows, sporting faux license plates with only the model year of the car displayed, are subject to smog tests. Just because some dude behind the couter hasn't heard of it doesn't mean it's not in the books. I'll also check in the law library at school and see if I can get any info on this shizzle. What do you feel like doing with the bumper by the way? Do you want me to make an entirely new front bumper out of glass? |
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He was actually very helpful and spent some time and talked to others in the office. The closest we could come up with was form 17a, which included various classes of historical vehicle registration. In order to qualify you need to be a vehicle 25 years or older and of historical interest, subject to certification. Our chassis isn't old enough and of no particular historical interest. The other classes had to do with horseless carriage (ancient), Medal of Honor Winner, and the like. Quote:
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Damn. Sorry Ben, I guess my friend had his head up his ass.
These are the AWR flares, they're pretty sweet but $440 for the pair, plus shipping. We can make one out of glass, I'll stop by this weekend to check out the bumper. |
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