Has a 10 rib drive belt so its good for 10-15psi. Will be getting some afr's and probaly a short runner style intake, as well as an a2w intercooler should be good for mid 4XX to low 5XX with a smog lega cam.
Boosten ya: I appreciate the comments I worked very hard on dedicated service and only hope Max comes out even nicer. |
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Are you going to be able to get all 10-15 psi in there on 91 octane? what internals are you planning on? Or are you planing on running race fuel or an ethanol? I say ethanol but everyone knows I'm slightly biased. Its pretty good for how much it costs. Or perhaps pump gas with a meth injection system? This whole build is interesting me alot... It's coming together like something I would love to do in the future to a Fox body if I can find one in the right shape for the right price. Sorry for so many questions... I get all excited sometimes. |
I'll never run ethanol or e85, that shit is nasty. Stock internals will easily outlast the stock block, up till 93 foxes came stock with trw forged pistons so as long as you have a safe tune those will be fine. The block tends to split in the 450+ range and the pistons, rods and cranks are good for at least 550, I wont run meth since that stuff is highly corrosive as well. A little bitty 302 with decent heads and 10psi with a good flowing intake and some sort of charge cooler will easily make 500rwhp, pass smog and you can keep the a/c unlike the turbo kits for foxes.
As far as tuning it will easily run on 91 octane. My advice is to buy one of the rollers on the www.corral.net, you'll generally find ones that are substantially modified less a heart and will/can be purchased for around .30c on the dollar and will be in great shape. |
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my build on my 87 for the people that care to see it http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...d-service.html
Keep in mind i went back and fixed alot of stuff that i didnt post about in that thread, management got me fed up with that site so i stopped updating it |
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Ron is your stock pulley a 6 rib or 8 rib? My plan is to run about 15 psi and see what it puts down and 8'll slowly back it down, debating whether I should run the power cooler or mondo cooler, at this point I already have the mondo cooler just not crazy about running a 5" cowl.
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Well i found a complete power cooler kit for $600 which is too cheap to pass up (like all the things i bought this week) and includes the special valve covers needed to clear the tubing, so i guess i'll be selling the mondo cooler, Ron, wanna after cool your car? :)
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Very nice cooler there! I wanted to run a liquid to air intercooler, but opted for the air to air due to the lack of space under the hood I have.
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Thanks! I've done about 3 install for them now and the definitely do cramp up the engine bay, along with the fact that the kit requires the tank be mounted where the battery is, since it has a high volume water pump I may mount it in the trunk instead of putting the battery there.
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Trunk would be much easier to do than you think. Should also help to keep the water temps down as well. Put a fan on the cooler too.
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I'm sure it will be easy but that's also a long way for the water to travel for such a tiny tank and the ice may melt too fast to get the benefits of packing the tank with ice. If I leave it in the bay I can rig a sort of killer chiller style setup and use the ac system to cool the aftercooler.
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I was joking, that thing is huge and im sure you dont want to run a 6" cowl any more than i do.
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So i got back from vacation and this was waiting for me
Not the same kit that i posted in ealier pages but its was also $200 cheaper than the one posted and it included shipping. So now all i really need is some cheap heads and ANY aftermarket intake and i should be on my way to 500rwhp and a freshly painted car for around 3k |
Time to hit up Edelbrock for the intake mani.
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Im hoping i can work a deal for the same intake i have for the 87 from a member on socalstangs, actually hes selling just about everything i need for both cars. So hopefully i can get a good chunk out of the way for both
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so I was able to work a deal on the RPM2 for 400 as well as these for 400, just need some rockers and i'll be set
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So here is a breakdown so far...
Si-trim $650 Power cooler $400 SVO Y heads $400 Eddy rpm2 $400 Still need a throttle body, may run the stocker for the time being. Some 42lb injectors, shorty headers, and some 5 lug wheels and the ca will be driveable and i can start on the body work. |
Scored some accel 44lb injectors for $135, and made quite a bit of progress today.
Bagged all my interior pieces and organized them into my shit hole of a bench area, pulled about 90% of everything off the car and sanded about 50% of the car, its pretty straight, few dings that need to be pulled but nothing serious. My girlfriend is in vegas until wednesday so im trying to make as much progress as i can before she gets back. Anyways here is the part people pay attention to. |
Looks good. Are you going to pull the dents or do you take it to someone?
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I'll pull the dents, there is nothing major, no frame damage and most of the dents are reachable from the other side, save for a few, but my paint guy is loaning me his studs welders so i'll be able to pull the difficult ones.
Still need to pick up some metal glaze, and some more mig wire and gas for my welder so i can fill the holes for the antenna and badges |
So today these came in, for a measly $125....
Accel 44# injectors, should supply plenty of fuel for my horsepower goals also did some more body work |
Crap. Forgot to take pictures of the new work, oh well.
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Just need to finish the roof and rear deck lid, then i'll start on the jambs, which will probably take more time than the whole car did
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It's looking good. So what else do you need to finish the engine for this one?
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Well i lost that intake i originally intended on buying, let it slip through hands so i'll need an intake, e303 cam, 1 5/8" shorties, and a new timing chain. Heads are being ported currently so i'll need to have a cheap intake soon so he can match them. I just dont want a gt40 intake cause they are butt ugly. Other than that i'll need a crank pulley, mini race, intake tube, and various fuel system nic nacs to complete the supercharger. Im sure im forgetting a handful of items that will nickle and dime me.
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I just skimmed through the thread, from what you are saying you want from the car a used eddy performer intake would likely be your best bet. It has great street manners and will pull past the the 5k mark. An upside is that you can have the upper ported as well as the lower and by the time you add boost it will likely outlast the stock block if you have it hogged out. A wratchet wrench will get you past the bolt in the plenum. I wouldnt let that sway you away from it.
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Its just an added inconvenience i dont want to deal with, if i can find a cheap trick flow intake i will, but right now the only choice seems to be the eddy. Whatever intake i do end up with will be ported by my builder, he's currently got the heads and will need the intake shortly, if i wasnt in the poor house from three mistresses I would probably have enough funds.
As far as the horsepower, I know that the car will make 500rwhp easily, 13-14psi, power cooler and an e303 will do it no issue. I'm pretty confident seeing as Ron's car makes 436rwhp with 11-12psi and no power cooler. |
If you are looking for ease of install. Go with ppi or tfsr. The trickflow track/street intake has mounting points that are just as much of a bitch to get to.
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Really at this point its whatever is in my price range, so its all a roll of the dice, whatever i can afford is what i'll get, no room to be picky
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the cool thing about the eddy intake is that you can open the plate on the plenum and open the upper up. cant do that with a trick flow. depending on where your boost comes in along with your cam/gear choices a box style intake may not be a bad choice and they are dirt cheap. They are more geared for a standing 1/4 mile though. If she is going to try and follow you through a road course you may want to look for something with longer runners.
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Yeah same as on my rpm2, its gonna be a learner car, track, street, auto x, road course etc. So its gotta be a friendly intake, with an e303 it'll have excellent street manners and still have a pretty lethal power band once boost kicks in, plus a/c is nice. :)
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Started on the drivers side door jamb, the dent in the roof was worse than i thought, so i had to quench and shrink it to keep the dent from popping in and out, but for my first time, did pretty good.
Also removed the hatch and will remove the doors once i have somewhere to put them so i can work on them safely, and hopefully will have it primed this friday, then i can start blocking |
Well body is straight yet there is enough dents to slow down the process enough cause I'm not well versed in laying bondo and metal glaze. Its going well enough though as my body man stops by every few days to tell me what i did wrong, should be a week or so before the first layer of primer. Also stopped in for a view of the heads, still a work in progress but nevertheless look great so far.
Untouched ports Pedestal mounts converted to stud mount |
Stopped by my machinest to order some rings and bearings and found 1 of the heads finished and shawn told me to get it out of his way(nicely).
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I have more detailed ones but it is difficult to post them on my phone. They look great and would expect n/a with an e303 to make about 300rwhp. He cut .040 off the heads to bump compression to around 9.5:1. Which is fine for boost and wont be too lazy with the centri. Should be able to make 500rwhp easily |
Here are the others
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:popcorn:
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What size valves are those? Did you install new valves or are the ones that were already in the heads?
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