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Like i said, girdles help for keeping your shit together when it breaks. Jeff (cobra912) snapped a rod at only 550rwhp (forged btw) and it launched out of the car and just about cut the block in half. I have a girdle on the spare motor with forged internals, the sbf tends to crack at the front of the block near the cam. There's just not enough material in the block to keep it from going, the caps are small, the crank it 75% exposed its a wonder the block even hols the power it can |
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I have about 90,000 miles in 6 years on my engine combo which makes 11-12 psi with a Vortech SQi S-trim and puts down 471rwhp. I drag race, autocross, road race, etc and it sees redline every time I drive it. I also use it as my daily driver and since I have customers in northern Cal and AZ that I drive to it's not unusual for me to put 600-700 miles on it in a day.
But like you said proper tuning is key as is the setup. My tune is safe and redline for me is 5800 because of the E303 cam. I have my rev limiter at the factory 6250 and it only hit it if the tires break loose. Even when I'm showing off doing a burnout I don't floor it so it doesn't hit the rev limiter. |
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PS, girdles help keep the crank from flexing. Not that there will be so much stress on the crank in a normal app that the block needs a girdle to keep it in place, like rocker girdles, but after 100k miles I would imagine there would be less wear. So Id vote no on a block girdle, yes on rocker girdles. |
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Rons car is a freak but also not reving it helps ALOT with a sbf. |
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I have been told by everyone and their dog that revs kill them also. I take mine to the 6200 redline I have set every time it runs. Not sure if that's considered high by all, but by most I guess it is *shrugs* |
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Dont remember, and now you have ;) Ps, the only GM part on my engine is the block and the dist clamp. Theyre AFR studs, a top of my sexy AFR heads.
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AFR studs are just standard sbc studs. Nothing special about them.
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Youre saying AFR studs are OEM for GM? :p
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Question, I'm looking at replacing the main bolts. Looking at ARP bolts and studs, they both have the same tensil strength. Why are the studs way more expensive? Is it worth the extra cash if they have the same tensil strength? Common sense tells me no.
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Starting to get silly, it is a budget motor. Id just reuse the old shit. If ford heads are defunct thats one thing, but bolts for everything else. Id even reuse the HG if it was an MLS. Ive reused mine 3 or 4 times, just copper spray it.
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Piston rings too, theres really no reason you cant reuse them, especially if you kept them in order.
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I don't know what you're talking about? This is a technical discussion of bolts vs. studs, not so much specific application. You're assuming Snake only. The Snake is not so much a budget motor (probably around 500-550BHP with a roots blower) compared to the lemon Fox, for which duct tape would be sufficient if it works. Studs $55 . . .that's free. The rings are already replaced and installed. Done.
This was to answer Damian's specific technical question. |
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Oops, thought that was you asking... Guess if I had a bigger screen LTE phone I would have known that... Ahhhhhh I hate my iPhone 4!!! Why did I buy such a slow piece of shit?! Sean was right!!! Baaaahhhhhhh!!! :crybaby: :crybaby:
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And I know what you meant, I was taunting you. Ha |
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Do the girdles come with new poly locks? Btw I paid $22 for my arp 7/16 studs. Which I am not concerned about fucking up
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Oh ya, just ebay sbf stud girdle.
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