Then you could bump the fuel pressure up as a bandaid if needed, but i'd say the half assing it ship has sailed. Either go with a straight up stock replacement, and hock it. Or do it all the way and keep it.

It's tuned for, and ran fine on the cam I had other than crappy warm start idle, a common H&C problem from the olden times on the LS1. A stock cam wouldn't run very well, but one with specs close to what I had *should*. . .

But the cam that came out of it had no common manufacturer markings or numbers we could look up. A little bit of a mystery. It will have to be analyzed to confirm what the hell it actually was.

Then I'd say anything in an advertised range, regardless of lobe design will run just fine. However I would not run it for long without a tune. Figure even if you do have it tuned without having the exhaust done, its such a minute change that the computer should accommodate for it. Not ideal, but its better than nothing. If there was any time to have Jamie do the job, it would be now, whole hell of alot of time would be saved since everything is already out. I don't believe he has the ability to do side work at DT any more but I'm sure it could be done here at the shop. Do you have his contact info?

You mean bench tune? The ECU is just in the back by the battery, I can get that any time. I may not be following you here.

What I'm saying is, if you have a cam that is now 224 now and go above or below 4-5* the ECU should accommodate enough for changes. We're not talking drastic changes, but it should be tuned. For the $300-400 it costs, it's a safe thing to do.

While the engine is out, and the manifolds, blah blah. Now would be time for Jamie to work his pipe magic and do the exhaust.

Oh, do the exhaust while the engine is out. Well. the block is at the shop. Sorry to be dense here but I figr'd he'd want the car with the engine in it to see the clearances with suspension, etc. I remember investigating this years ago and the reason custom is basically just required is that, AIR, is that the exits from #1/2 are very narrow to the control arms.

Well yes, he needs it in the car, but, his major bitch with vettes, and lsx cars in general is the amount of time it takes to remove everything like the coil packs, manifolds, etc

So the engine should be in and mounted but that's it. Would make the whole process alot quicker, which I'm sure means cheaper, but I can't say for certain. Do you have his number?

PM or text with his info. I'd just take the car to him complete and pay for the work to be done, including mod of the cross member as mind is a little Mad Max at present.