The one thing that sucks about working on older vehicles is that none of the nuts and bolts want to come off. Progress is good on the maintenance but I'm still waiting for parts to come in and I still need to get my steering shaft.

PB Blaster like it was free and let it sit for a while, at least several minutes, but even hours. Then (if you can) give the bolt head a little whack with a metal hammer. Basically you're just breaking the welded bond formed by the rust.

Sometimes heating with a torch pouring a little water will also break a bond. I'm hesitant with this one because it can crack.

And if the shit gets real, a hammer impact tool will break anything loose. I've got one if you need to borrow, plus some "easy outs". You live close.

I use WD-40 like it's going out of style. Sometimes an impact gun just won't fit, and that sucks! I'm going to pick up one of those little propane torches here soon, I've used that method a few times in the past with success, especial with some bearing removals.

Stop being a namby pamby you jackwaggon and put some balls behind a wrench :laugh:

Lmao! Get that fucking Muffstain done!

I'm doing everything while I'm at work and I'm not in a position to break any studs or anything at that. If I was at home, I'd just use a breaker bar and call it a day.

PB Blaster is far more effective at dissolving rust related issues. I'm talking about a hammer impact, I don't even know what the torque is, it's way higher than a standard impact. It will pop things loose a pneumatic impact won't. But you have to have enough room to swing a hammer.

The impact gun I have is 260 or 280ft lbs. It works good if I can get it in there. I need to get one of those impact swivels or whatever they are called. Those hammer impacts are awsome, we use them here at work sometimes.

I installed my AEM Truboost and it made a world of difference. I can't go over 11psi without it running weird. Not sure if it's a boost leak or a bad O2 sensor. I just bought a new O2 sensor and I'll do a boost leak test tomorrow.

About 2 weeks ago the truck got too hot going up the Grapevine. Ended up changing the water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and a flush. Ran good after that, then it started smoking a couple of days later after I did an oil change. I ran 5w30 instead of 10w30 and I thought that was the issue. Added some Lucas oil additives and smoking damn near went away. Only smoked when I took off from a dead stop. Then it just started smoking all the time. Did a compression check and all cylinders had 155-160psi but one. That one only had 35psi and the spark plug had oil all over it. So now I'm in the middle of an engine tear down. I guess this is quite common for these trucks if they get a bit too warm. Sad part is, I just lost my job a week and a half ago too. So no crazy spending for me. Hopefully the damage is minimal (key word "hopefully") and I can just buy a rebuild kit for the bottom end and buy a new block later on and build that one up.

Anyone know how good Sealed Power kits are? I'm looking at this kit: http://m.summitracing.com/parts/FEM-MKP-6371A000

Sorry to hear that. Most likely the issue you have is a blown head gasket and possibly a warped head. When you get it apart check the head surface.

As for the Sealed Power kit from Summit, that's what I used on the 454 in Chevelle. I bought the complete kit that came with pistons and I have 6 years of racing on it. In those 6 years all I've done is replaced blown head gaskets once and did a valve job about a year ago. I've been happy with mine.