:pot_stir:Test and tune is racing, but not the same as an organzied series with classes. When everybody is running simliar setup you will see the difference that a professional engine builder will make. I had a great shop do my HCI package (lasted 3 years until the shortblock let go) and had one of the best suspension guys in SOCAL (me:asshole:) set up the car. http://www.nasa-tt.com/Socal_Standin..._articleid/174 Third place TTU overall 2009 with only three completed events (lost a few when the rim broke, the clutch slave cylinder broke and finally the engine). Running R888s in a full slick class.

I agree you did a great job! Said it in my first post. Now as a reminder you did how many events in this car? What did you run at Cal Speedway 2:++ . Is this the car that just got walked by the EVO?

Build the Camaro and come play with me.

Again, it's a nice motor. That's the first thing I said. As far as not talking about YOUR motor; can you remind me what kind of power it made? I'm going to start searching for that Enkievette dyno chart or 1/4 mile video, because I know this cannot be the old Enkievette (aka. Motorgen benchracing king). Wasn't there a replaced piston in that thing. How much racing did you get out of it before it failed?

<1K is big power, but this thread is about max streetable power. The devil is in the details (you'll learn this when you start your second semester of law school), Not what you can do on a budget. The fact is you can buy a 100% production car with >1khp. DOZENS of tuners can build streetable 1khp+ motors. There are all reliable and fucking costly.

Heffners
Hennasy
LG motorsports
EVOMs
EVO
GMG
Barbus
VDP
RPS
Titan
Norris
Shelby supercars
a bunch of Japanese shit I can't spell.

Here is a challenge. Ron I never said that you couldn't build a 1khp motor (even though you feel challenged somehow), but I bet you can't do it for less than $10K reliably.

Now we're talking!

- Define your parameters of what's allowable (displacement, induction, NOS, etc.)

- Define your parameters of what would constitute reliable.

Th point of my original post was perhaps a bit too general. Here's my take.

A well sorted car in the low 500s to the wheels, think Vette, Cobra, etc. can still have all these parameters:
- affordable(ish)
- reliable
- comfortable
- somehow acceptable mpg
- usable, that is you can get on it from time to time

These are the things I would consider desirable in a regularly street driven car.

Every car I've seen beyond 600WHP blows one or more of these parameters out of the water. The Veyron is an awesome example of >1,000HP car that you could buy groceries in, take on long quiet drives, etc., but there's what, 200 of them in the world, and I bet not one of them is regularly driven on the road.

It seems to me most cars making north of 600 to the wheels are going to have things like:
- very touchy throttles, making a ton of power right off idle, not fun in traffic OR
- big turbo -> big lag -> power hits like a wave, not fun in traffic
- heavy clutches in the case of manuals to hold the power, or regularly fried lighter clutches


I should have been more specific. I get your point Carlos. Money no object, you could build a street car that would be massively powerful. Then I have to ask the question, what for? Unless you're in the sticks, you aren't going to get anywhere near that massive power, which is the other implied part of my question.

Do diesel's count?

Sure.

I did run the Chevelle in a competitive series for a season at LACR before they closed along with racing it every Friday night at the TNT events. Do you really think that if I paid someone to build my engine it would be any better or more reliable than it is now? I've been racing with it for almost 5 years now and it still runs just as strong.

I've run 5 events in the Cobra and have over 70,000 hard miles. Every freeway on ramp is a drag strip to me. How many miles did you have on your Vette before you blew the previous engine?

What does my time have to do with how I built my engine? That has to do with the way the car is set up, not how much horsepower I have. As proof, how much did you put to the wheels with your old combo? Wasn't it around 460rwhp? Well, I put down 471. Does it matter that my best time was a 2:02? I'm still running all out for a 25 minute session just like you do in your Vette. Actually, it's probably harder on my engine than it is yours since I pushing 12psi of non aftercooled boost with IAT of about 300* and your N/A. And what does the EVO (which didn't walk me) have to do with anything? Didn't I beat your Vette in my Cobra when we raced?


When I get the Camaro done I'll definately come to play.

Vettezuki...If you're ever around Austin, look me up. You have an open invitation to see how docile 625 RWHP can be.:beer::beer::beer:

Ron,
The reason that I brought up the cal speedway times is because my car is running much harder. Yes you have a supercharger, but hey the extra weight up front doesn't hurt does it? My car sticks. After the warm-up lap it rarely sees anything less than 4500 rpms. You don't have the suspension to work your car that hard. So yes, your cobra made more power than my old motor. But you weren't using it as evidence in your lap times.

I am so looking forward to the start of your road racing career. Give me a call and I will slow down so you can watch and learn.
CNJ

I've always been interested in the city of Austin. Naturally I'll have to drive to make sure you know what you're talking about. :judge:

I'm not talking about the weight, I'm talking about the additional heat that the engine sees because of the supercharger. It would be like you running your Vette with the temp outside being over 200 degrees. My Cobra spends the whole time between 4000 and 6000. How is that any different?

Really, you think you are that much better of a driver than I am? What times did you run at CSW with your old Mustang?