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-   -   RX-Snake: Engine Related (http://www.motorgen.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1054)

Vettezuki 04-20-2009 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRUTAL64 (Post 20812)
About the 240Z. I just remembered a girl I was "seeing" tried to GIVE me a 240Z without engine and trans. This was in 1996. I had EVERYTHIING laying about to build a V8 240Z. I've always wanted to do it.

Now that would make a KILLER road car.:drink:

Yes it would. Do you have some sort of psychological opposition to putting a gnarly and proper Turbo I6 in one, a la the great 2JZGTTE. I even have a name already 240JZ. :smack:

big2bird 04-21-2009 05:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRUTAL64 (Post 20812)
About the 240Z. I just remembered a girl I was "seeing" tried to GIVE me a 240Z without engine and trans. This was in 1996. I had EVERYTHIING laying about to build a V8 240Z. I've always wanted to do it.

Now that would make a KILLER road car.:drink:

The problem with that is the same as in A-H 3000's, Jags, and the such is the balance. Too much weight up front.;)

BRUTAL64 04-21-2009 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big2bird (Post 20843)
The problem with that is the same as in A-H 3000's, Jags, and the such is the balance. Too much weight up front.;)

Yea, but you could do killer donuts.:smack:


I drove one in the early eighties. It was a small block (327?) with a 280z rear end. It felt pretty balanced.:thumbs_up:

BRUTAL64 04-21-2009 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettezuki (Post 20821)
Yes it would. Do you have some sort of psychological opposition to putting a gnarly and proper Turbo I6 in one, a la the great 2JZGTTE. I even have a name already 240JZ. :smack:

You and turbos:smack:. Inline six? Ok, but putting in the ole American V8 is so...........so..............."American".:judge:


Back in the 70s I finished a 56 AH with a 301 Chevy, PG and 67 Corvette rear for a girlfriend. What a rocket ship. It was just as fast (I'm sure it was faster, but a girl drove it) as my friend's 70 LT1 corvette.:drink:

joedls 05-03-2009 05:07 PM

Any update on fixing the blower? I located the crank spacer, pulley, and the belt.

Vettezuki 05-03-2009 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joedls (Post 21669)
Any update on fixing the blower? I located the crank spacer, pulley, and the belt.

My brother's school recently aquired a laser scaner. They're in the process of setting it up. If it works, we'll be able to CNC a new front bearing plate "relatively" easily. If that doesn't work out, the fall back is Jeff's budy who is a world class welder/fabricator; he can piece it back together. All we'd have to do in that case is reindex the snout holes to bearing plate. In either case we'll have to turn the snout and make a press fit ring. Anyway, just waiting for word back from my brother.

Vettezuki 05-21-2009 04:38 PM

Oky doky, the staff at the university apparently bypassed the minor detail of control software for the laser scanner, so it won't be operational til the fall. Balls to that, so as soon as I sell some plasma, we'll be handing it off to bird's welder pal for refabrication. May the force be with us.

enkeivette 05-21-2009 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRUTAL64 (Post 20857)
You and turbos:smack:. Inline six? Ok, but putting in the ole American V8 is so...........so..............."American".:judge:


Back in the 70s I finished a 56 AH with a 301 Chevy, PG and 67 Corvette rear for a girlfriend. What a rocket ship. It was just as fast (I'm sure it was faster, but a girl drove it) as my friend's 70 LT1 corvette.:drink:

My friend has a fresh fully forged 250 I6 in his garage for his 66 stang. Cyl head is on the way after it gets ported and soon after a Garrett turbo.

BRUTAL64 05-23-2009 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enkeivette (Post 22913)
My friend has a fresh fully forged 250 I6 in his garage for his 66 stang. Cyl head is on the way after it gets ported and soon after a Garrett turbo.

Just think what that vehicle would do with same amount of money put into a 302. Yep, a whole LOT faster.:thumbs_up:

enkeivette 05-24-2009 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRUTAL64 (Post 23040)
Just think what that vehicle would do with same amount of money put into a 302. Yep, a whole LOT faster.:thumbs_up:

AGREED

You won't see any funky inline motors under Cambria's hood. Now if I get my hands on a 787b, no promises.

Vettezuki 05-24-2009 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enkeivette (Post 23066)
AGREED

You won't see any funky inline motors under Cambria's hood. Now if I get my hands on a 787b, no promises.


Do you mean you'd put a funky inline under the hood of a 787b or the R26b from the 787 in Cambria?

BRUTAL64 05-26-2009 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettezuki (Post 23072)
Do you mean you'd put a funky inline under the hood of a 787b or the R26b from the 787 in Cambria?

"787b or the R26b from the 787" what you using Jet engines???:rolling:

enkeivette 10-04-2009 02:39 AM

I have piston ring pliers btw, before you go out and buy some.

big2bird 10-08-2009 06:24 PM

The blower is now welded up, and ready to be re-machined. Now, to have Doug help me convince John M. to do the work.:leaving:

Vettezuki 10-08-2009 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big2bird (Post 34587)
The blower is now welded up, and ready to be re-machined. Now, to have Doug help me convince John M. to do the work.:leaving:


Word bird! That's awesome. Just have Doug use his special East Coast charms on John. . .

Also, I'll extend the same offer to John as to anyone doing substantial and/or skilled work. If he can drive a potential 10second car and donates "value in kind" to the project, he can drive it when complete. (Yes, Ron, it will be completed :smack:)

big2bird 10-09-2009 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettezuki (Post 34592)
Word bird! That's awesome. Just have Doug use his special East Coast charms on John. . .

Also, I'll extend the same offer to John as to anyone doing substantial and/or skilled work. If he can drive a potential 10second car and donates "value in kind" to the project, he can drive it when complete. (Yes, Ron, it will be completed :smack:)

Doug, Glen, and TimAT all looked at it tonight. We all agree the work is exquisite, and believe it will live again. I'll bring it by Nicks tomarrow.

Vettezuki 10-09-2009 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big2bird (Post 34734)
Doug, Glen, and TimAT all looked at it tonight. We all agree the work is exquisite, and believe it will live again. I'll bring it by Nicks tomarrow.


Can't wait. :hail: Wonder if I took pictures of the damn thing before he fixed her up.

BRUTAL64 10-10-2009 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettezuki (Post 34740)
Can't wait. :hail: Wonder if I took pictures of the damn thing before he fixed her up.

Yes, a VERY FINE job there. Should work out good for the project.:bigthumbsup:

Vettezuki 01-04-2010 10:49 PM

Today we pressed out the shaft from the snout and began some machining of the snout and bearing plate. The shaft itself was fine but discovered that the axle the shaft spins on was bent like a mofo. (Holy Crap Joe). So they'll have to make a new one from scratch. Also the plate was not even close to flat so they had to machine it down about 1/16th in total. That we can make up with a shim and an extra gasket, if it turns out there isn't enough clearance between the plate and gears.

But all in all, it looks like it's going to work. The shop is very busy, so my cousin will work it in on the side as he can. Maybe a couple weeks.

Vettezuki 06-15-2010 01:29 PM

Dropped off the pistons (w/ rods attached), crank, balancer, and flywheel. The pistons need to be cut for the larger valves in the new heads and the whole assembly needs to be balanced after the cutting.

Danger Will Robinson. Troy from FPS sort of grimaced when I showed him the pistons. They're press-on and he warned that no matter how careful they are, occasionally one cracks when separating the rod.

BRUTAL64 06-15-2010 03:03 PM

I have NEVER cracked a piston when pressing the pins out. Yes, it's possible but out of hundreds I did -never had one crack. It's all in the support of the piston.:drink:

Vettezuki 06-22-2010 10:43 PM

Hey Ron, or anyone, do you know anything about fuel cell rules? I decided that in the name of safety we'd replace the stock stamped metal fuel tank with a smaller foam filled cell (pretty cheap really). But are there any restrictions you can think of about how and where they're mounted etc.?

94cobra69ss396 06-22-2010 11:02 PM

1.4 FUEL SYSTEM All fuel tank filler necks located inside trunk must have filler neck vented to outside of body. Vented caps prohibited. All batteries, fuel lines, fuel pumps or filler necks located inside trunk require complete bulkhead of at least .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032 (.8 mm) aluminum to isolate driver compartment from trunk. Fuel lines must be located outside driver compartment. Fuel tanks must be within the confines of the body.

Vettezuki 06-22-2010 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 (Post 54168)
1.4 FUEL SYSTEM All fuel tank filler necks located inside trunk must have filler neck vented to outside of body. Vented caps prohibited. All batteries, fuel lines, fuel pumps or filler necks located inside trunk require complete bulkhead of at least .024-inch (.6 mm) steel or .032 (.8 mm) aluminum to isolate driver compartment from trunk. Fuel lines must be located outside driver compartment. Fuel tanks must be within the confines of the body.

Got it. Sounds like I can just get a fuel cell and strap it in the stock location.

Re: Battery
I have a legit battery box, but didn't releaize that a bulkhead was required between the back compartment and the front to rear mount the battery. Mmmm. . .

94cobra69ss396 06-22-2010 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettezuki (Post 54169)
Got it. Sounds like I can just get a fuel cell and strap it in the stock location.

Re: Battery
I have a legit battery box, but didn't releaize that a bulkhead was required between the back compartment and the front to rear mount the battery. Mmmm. . .

I'm not sure what has to be done with the fuel cell. I know it has to be inside the car but I'm not sure what has to be done with the hatch area. I'll ask the next time I go to the track.

With the battery you don't have to have a bulk head as long as there is a vent tube on the box to the outside of the car. There are only a couple of companies that make NHRA legal boxes. One being Taylor which is what I have in the Chevelle and the Cobra. It also has to be mounted so that one of the hold down bolts goes the the frame or subframe.

94cobra69ss396 06-22-2010 11:30 PM

Oh, and if it is in the back we have to have an external shut off switch that is clearly marked.

Vettezuki 07-09-2010 05:36 PM

Picked up the internals today.

Ron, I decided to get another set of rings (while we're at it). Can I drop off the pistons and new rings with you tomorrow at the cruise and you can install the rings at your leisure in preparation for assembling the bottom end?

94cobra69ss396 07-09-2010 08:20 PM

What rings are they and are they file fit rings? Did you find out what the ring manufacturer recommends for ring gaps with a blower? We need to check the end gaps before we install them on the pistons.

Vettezuki 07-09-2010 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 (Post 55156)
What rings are they and are they file fit rings?

They are these.

Quote:

Did you find out what the ring manufacturer recommends for ring gaps with a blower? We need to check the end gaps before we install them on the pistons.
No, but the pistons have the same rings on as when we removed them from the engine. I don't know if Joe had the engine built with the blower or added it later. Joe?

94cobra69ss396 07-09-2010 10:13 PM

Did you get this exact part number which is for a 4.000 bore? Wasn't the block bored .030? If so, these are the wrong size. If you have the correct size rings the next step is to check the end gaps which you do by installing the rings in the block and use a feeler gauge. Considering the low boost we'll be running and the fact that this will be a drag race engine I would set the top ring around .020-.022 and the second ring around .012-.014. What do you think Glenn?

Make sure you have the correct rings first and then we can arrange a night for me to come over and we'll check the rings and start building the short block.

Vettezuki 07-10-2010 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 (Post 55163)
Did you get this exact part number which is for a 4.000 bore?

That's a summit number, but it looks like it's the same. The block is .030 over and I did say to Troy it was .030 over, but there's nothing on the package that states the bore size. :huh:

Quote:

Considering the low boost we'll be running and the fact that this will be a drag race engine I would set the top ring around .020-.022 and the second ring around .012-.014. What do you think Glenn?
I would say RX-Snake is primarily a drag type car, but will see some slap-dick AutoX and maybe Drift, both of which are relatively short periods, but considerably longer than drag. It won't likely see anything longer than that.

Quote:

Make sure you have the correct rings first and then we can arrange a night for me to come over and we'll check the rings and start building the short block.
Word.

94cobra69ss396 07-10-2010 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettezuki (Post 55172)
That's a summit number, but it looks like it's the same. The block is .030 over and I did say to Troy it was .030 over, but there's nothing on the package that states the bore size. :huh:

Open one of the boxes and install the top ring in the block. Then check the end gap. Then we'll know if they are the correct size.

Vettezuki 07-10-2010 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 (Post 55183)
Open one of the boxes and install the top ring in the block. Then check the end gap. Then we'll know if they are the correct size.

Using my calipers, not feeler gauges (don't have), it measures 0.105" (very slightly more than a 10th of an inch, so I'mma guess'n those are for the 4.0" bore, not 30 over.

94cobra69ss396 07-10-2010 11:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vettezuki (Post 55205)
Using my calipers, not feeler gauges (don't have), it measures 0.105" (very slightly more than a 10th of an inch, so I'mma guess'n those are for the 4.0" bore, not 30 over.

Looks like it. They were probably fairly easy to push down into the cylinder as well, correct?

Vettezuki 07-10-2010 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 (Post 55208)
Looks like it. They were probably fairly easy to push down into the cylinder as well, correct?

I wouldn't say easy. They're certainly firmly pressed against the cylinder wall with pressure, but the gap is plenty big, can't imagine that's appropriate for containing compression.

94cobra69ss396 07-15-2010 04:44 PM

I'll be leaving here in about 15 minutes.

Vettezuki 07-15-2010 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94cobra69ss396 (Post 55543)
I'll be leaving here in about 15 minutes.

See you at 6:00.

94cobra69ss396 07-16-2010 12:56 AM

Well Ben and I honed the block tonight and then installed new main bearings along with the crank. Then we checked the end gap of the new rings which were .019 on the top ring and .015 on the second ring. We installed the new rings as well as new rod bearings and then installed all the pistons.

Vettezuki 07-16-2010 01:59 AM

Tonight was a very productive and fun night working with Ron. In addition to working on the motor, I gave him a ride in the Vette and he gave me a ride in the Cobra. Good times.

I actually got a fair bit of good video. Here's a little for now. I'm behind on a bunch of other video, but I'll get back to it.




I'll cut this to some porn music later for enkei.


------------
PICS

Ron searches for something.



Hours later, he's pretty sure he knows what it is.



Ron studied from his father how to drop bearings. So he's pretty good at it. ;)



He's also good at putting them in.




Block.


big2bird 07-16-2010 06:00 AM

I am quite sure that is the first time I ever saw someone hone a cylinder dry.


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