So I had to pay the piper, luckily I found someone local with them in stock. Gave me a discount and used our resale card to a price of $1488, anywho, here they are

Shiny... whats your address? :p

How much did you get done last night?

Not a lot, I couldn't find the keyway for the crank. So I spent a couple hours putting together the canopy for the gray car.

Degreed the camshaft tonight. it was a complete cluster fuck, but for other reasons. anywho, Ron was having an issue with this one coming into spec. I started off by installing it at the 6* advanced like he did. here's what I got
112.5 LC
215/220
-5 & 40
-1.5 & 41

These are no where near the specs on the card, so I installed it at the 4* like in my motor and here's what I got
114 LC
217/217
-5 & 42.5
-5 & 42.5

So like I thought the cam was too advanced and makes sense why it came in at 112. Now it's right on the money and came in perfectly.

That doesn't make sense. If you retard the cam 2 degrees the the IO would occur 2 degrees later and would be -3 instead. The duration at 0.050 will be the same no matter whether the ICL is 112 or 114.

Then the only answer is the cam is asymmetrical. I checked it, over and over, did it probably 20 times tconfirrm, it was right on.

That doesn't explain it. An asymmetrical lobe just has a different closing profile than opening profile. The IO would still occur at -3 if you retarded it 2 degrees and the duration at .050 would still be 215/220 no matter what the ICL is.

I have no clue then, I only degreed it once at 6* then a few dozen times at 4*
I even installed it at 8* to see the change at it was at 110.5 but didnt do the rest, It was about 3 am and I was low on sleep to begin with. Put it back at 4* and it came in the same every time, -5 and 217. I'm not going to pull it back out to try and track it down.

Don't know much about cams other than what they do generally. What's IO and ICL?

IO is Intake Open and ICL is the Intake Center Line. The cam grinder sets the ICL for the cam and all the corresponding specs (IO, IC, EO, EC). If you advance or retard the cam then you also change all those values. So if the cam should have a -5* IO installed at 114 ICL by advancing it 2* to 112 the IO should occur at -7*.

That's why I don't see how it came in at -5 when installed at both 4 and 6 degrees advanced.

Just trying to visualize. If it's supposed to be -5* retarded andyou advance it +2*, should the result be -3*? I'm just thinking of a circle. 0* -5* +2* = -3* from 0*.

Duration is open to close. So if its asymmetrical and closing sooner it would have effectively less duration. (Assuming it wasnt designed that way, and its just one or some lobes with that issue)

But I agree, changing the ICL wouldnt change duration.

You are correct Ben.

Actually, the numbers we are talking about is at .050. So they are not from opening to closing.

OIC

I stopped trying to figure it out, it's a regrind so it's a bit different than a normal shelf cam. I do know that it came in exactly what was on the card at 4* and I checked multiple times,I even started over completely to finding TDC and it was still the same. Shawn told me why it needed to be installed at 4* and not 6* but I forgot. Other than that, I have no idea why it is the way it is. However I do owe you for the ccam.

Any updates for us?

Yes, I don't have a lot of time to post though, just a couple posts from the shitter. Will update when i'm home.

Well, I thought I had updates but Google wasn't working so I couldn't work on the car.

Just because you google doesn't mean you know how to use the internets.

I would Google to make sure, but its not working.

:smack:

Doesnt matter since you dont race it on the street or on the track. Just get it driveable :p

I've never even driven it, wouldn't know what to do with a car that runs

LMGTFY

Let me get tickled by fags, yay?

That was cool!

Did you figure out what the grinding noise is?

Ford bearings, they do that :)

I'll tell a story about this mustang I know.

It was loaded on a trailer, to go to Steve.



Then it was sitting outside, so pictures were taken.


As Steve drove it inside, a jingle was heard, and it started running funny. So it was loaded back up

It received new mufflers

Then the painter had time in his schedule to color sand the car, and he had it for a couple months.

Couple spots were buffed just for a peak







Then the rest of the car was worked



Final finish of 3500 grit


Then the wing was removed so the underside could be buffed






Then it came home and was torn open to find

And the cooler was addressed since Steve did not like the previous setup

Up close of the valve

After fitting and notching it was made permanent


How Steve is requiring the bypass be returned before he touches it again, but doesn't quite line up

And that's how it sits because the asshole that owns it would rather eat and lift heavy stuff than waste time and sanity on a car.

I got done fucking with the door panels in the moostain














And now that I have posted, I noticed I have a huge axle grease spot on my phone lens.

Installed my new redline goods boots in the car.

Painter finished compounding and will do the final glaze and polish tomorrow. Then I can put everything together and forget that I own it.

Car is done being buffed. Spent the day resetting the base idle, TPS voltage, set the timing, put the new exhaust on and tinkered with some other stuff. Just have to change out all the exterior trim, install glass trim and clean the back window, then I can wax it. Probably spend tomorrow detailing the interior.

Dusted off the interior today, I will reassemble everything else after its been tuned. For now I just wanted it not looking so much like a catch all of bolts and tools.

Looks awesome, I can't wait to see the paint in person because the pictures don't show the brightness of the color. So when are you going to get it tuned? I want to go with you if I can and you don't mind.

Tomorrow morning. I'm leaving at 7am.