Much!

Thanks y'all. It still isnt where it needs to be. For whatever reason its still sitting 2" higher then it's supposed to. I did cut out alot of the backing supports to make sure the heat exchanger had room. Its as far back as it could possibly go, if i push down on the bumper i'm able to get it to where it should be, so thats why i'm thinking I need the adjustable rods to pull it down. Over time it will stay that way on its own, but for now I think it should work, i'd really like to be able to close the hood.

So I played with the front bumper adjustment a little and my phone settings.






Also crammed a filter in the fender

Still isn't even close to being right, really just posted these to test out the hosting.
Also re-did the wiring for the MAF but left my keys at home so I couldn't start the car to check if it made a difference.

:smack: Thanks Jerry.

LOL no problem man. :laugh::thumbs_up:

Tomorrow I hope to start it up and hear the idle the way it should be. Then this weekend my upholstery guy will be sewing the stitches that go in the center of each door panel for a measly $20. If everything goes well I should have fullish interior this weekend. Minus a few pieces i'm missing. But I hope to have at least some seats.

So I took it for a drive this morning and its running a ton better. Still bucks but it's easier to control now, if I ease into the throttle its completely manageable. Still seems to be running a little funny, sounds like its missing when cold. Has some major exhaust leaks that i'll be fixing tonight with some donuts. I think the loose wiring was one of the causes of the shitty driveability . Still probably need another MAF but i'm going to trace wires before I buy anything else.

Traced down the wires in the MAF conversion and found a wire that wasn't properly crimped, of course it had to be the power wire. Crimped and started it right up, idled like a dream and then I took it for the drive. Hit 3lbs at about 2500rpm and completely annihilated the drag radials and unloaded the front suspension. Still a little lean and the hood wasnt latched so I didn't want to wail on it. Soon though, soon.

Not great lighting but it's mostly for the sound. Got the bumper cover adjusted finally, closed the hood and went for a drive. Thing is a monster and sounds fuckin great. It's got a major exhaust least so i'm going to use donuts at the joints in an attempt to quiet it down. Enjoy.

Looking good. GMR and ACH awaits.

Definitely, made the first half of the seat bracket for the passenger side last night. I have an interview tomorrow so I won't be working on it tonight but I will tomorrow. Once I finalize the measurements i'll weld them all together and paint them. Then i'll start the drivers side. Saturday i'll do the door panels and hopefully midweek and then that weekend i'll finish the HVAC vacuum lines as well as the smog vacuum lines. Get it smog and take it to the track for some fun after the tune.

Sounding good Guy!

Thanks y'all. I was thinking about plates for it since Vanessa is gone now and I built the car for her. This is what I came up with
No Rgrts

Then there's the always comical
Sie Fikn

The car sounds great!!

Thanks :)

Here's a better quality video. I'll be posting updates but no pics from here on out. That way y'all are really surprised when it's finished in the coming weeks

So no pictures until it's done. Gonna keep y'all in the dark until its big reveal. Head lights are in, HID's are in, passenger seat in, new O2's in, just waiting for some brackets to finish the body assembly.

Tomorrow I'll hopefully make the brackets for the driver side, clean up the interior and reassemble. Then this weekend, tidy up everything and have the windshield replaced. It'll be a week or two before the door panel stitching is done, but it will essentially have full interior. Then finish the EGR crap and take it for a smog, finish the a/c system and enjoy the fuck out of it.

Stay tuned.

Cool, looks like ACH is a go. Test drive at GMR soon?

There's some registration stuff to be done, smog, tune etc. But yes, very soon.

So if you didn't see in Ron's thread we're getting tuned friday. I have been jamming on the car, assembling interior bits, tracking down why my power windows work but the door locks don't and its because some jack wagon cut the wires for them. Still need to get the stitching done, and install the important things, like seat belts, finding a gauge cluster and some striker bushings.

Its close. Looks like a car again, just need to wet sand it and buff it.

So friday was fun, I guess. I found out that the car is well capable of 600rwhp on race fuel. Since I was running pump gas and didnt wan't to fuck things up, Steve made slow pulls to see where it would make about 12-14psi. Unfortunately we didnt even make it that far. He started the run around 3k and by 4200 it hit 10.81psi. Massive belt slip happened and he shut it down, he said its likely it slipped so bad because how hard the boost came on. So I need to track down a 3.7" blower pulley to bring it down to around 13psi at 6200. He said even then, its going to make 500rwhp no problem.

Then on the drive home I had the wonderful event of hearing BINK. Broken rocker stud, spent all day today fixing it and other shit I missed. Found out the core of the aftercooler was so mucked up thats why it wasn't flowing. Tossed it in the washer for a few hours and ran some solvents through it and its much better, but still not close to what it needs to be.

Also found out the bypass wasnt even hooked up at all, neither was the vacuum line for it. So I replumed it, added the vacuum line and changed the plugs and plug wires. The car is running MUCH better then it was yesterday. Very pleased so far. Also since the bypass is the way it should be now, the blower reversion has stopped and the car should pass smog.

Car made 372.2rwhp and 420rwtq at 4200 rpm. It has ALOT more to go...

So after breaking 2 rocker studs in 5 miles I realized I didn't use ARP studs like I thought. So I swapped them all out today for the ARP ones and ragged on it a bit. Nothing borken yet, however I did develop a massive exhaust leak and apparently an oil leak from the PCV valve at the back of the engine. I'm going to replace it with a positive pressure PCV valve and silicone it in place. Anyone else have an idea why oil might be blowing out of there?

Mine did as well, used the one from an svo, no more problem.

EV154 Right?

The PCV valve has to be able to handle boost or it's gonna leak by. I picked up a check valve from McMaster Carr for like $10 shipped and installed it and works great. Used it on my Eclipse and the Typhoon with no issues. I can look up the part number if you're interested.

This exactly.

Guy:

Attachment 739

Hmmm, thats the one I have now. I'm showing either a EV111 or EV154 for high boost.

Not sure...

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1979...ng/EV127A/view

Rather informative thread here:

http://mustangsvo.org/svoforums/show...-out-dipstick&

I'll try the 154 and if it still does it i'll silicone it in place.

Tried the 111 and it seems to be holding. But now my exhaust gasket blew out and valve covers are leaking. So now I get to pull the intake, cooler core and valve covers off, again. Yay me. However its running very very well. I hit some massive belt slip at 9psi but that should be cured shortly.

That's why I like turbo over supercharger, no belt slippage.

Its only because its making too much power for my setup. As soon as I slow the blower down it'll be fine. And I like blowers over turbos because I can pass smog, have instant boost oh and pass smog.

This car will soon be for sale for a real fast car. No more worthless ford crap.

Don't know how fast a house can go but i'll find out.

I hollowed mine out and move it to the intake, sucks good, theres always some oil in the filter from it.

This thing get dynoed yet?

:smack:

Everything that's needed to refine the interior and/or finish the car is on the way, NT05's are mounted on the back. Washed and claybared it today as well. Everything should be in monday-tuesday. Then smog and registration.