View Full Version : Painting
enkeivette
10-29-2008, 12:55 AM
Paint booth pics, day 1.
Eric
http://a158.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/66/l_79bb4206a6cc04b91b4f12f3d4e3e4fd.jpg
Bill
http://a327.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/74/l_ce9b10f1a29a597364a831caaa640a06.jpg
Adam
http://a764.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/125/l_9c0d3074f576e2c586f1b26a72e9ad9b.jpg
Cambria
http://a335.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/19/l_a1112d8e73c4513a321ee9541c07e286.jpg
http://a939.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/68/l_b29b98a4a0d5612528929b1a2931221a.jpg
http://a340.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/128/l_cb638fc64b142f19c5e2d4a138ed256b.jpg
http://a877.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/101/l_88d4735eb0f3d9e1d7b0954259328d24.jpg
http://a150.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/40/l_a7a55c193140e99583d2441abf63af2d.jpg
http://a19.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/120/l_04d85ebb181d864941d7b4bf978a9e5a.jpg
http://a940.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/126/l_f7b932bad6346e967bf961d12c0c8c4b.jpg
http://a598.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/70/l_c5a8e53558d7943ba4b627077fc4ef75.jpg
http://a412.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/123/l_fd8c03e380b4db36c4a340332c568f73.jpg
http://a36.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/117/l_ee8381d7372a89d04985c8690a6b09db.jpg
http://a789.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/106/l_7b7d7baf174286b8aec839c8e4a4c74c.jpg
http://a430.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/44/l_5e1f44d369b466756b300596a831923d.jpg
http://a844.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/69/l_6b270896745e7ee22f69c2c4f62218b3.jpg
http://a416.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/66/l_823a9b0f49f59f8b76dbffff10d38227.jpg
http://a711.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/126/l_5b8fe2037e7e157c54eea71bad8bb926.jpg
http://a614.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/2/l_c9e4bee4b9ea92fde1a57106b58366cd.jpg
http://a335.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/19/l_a1112d8e73c4513a321ee9541c07e286.jpg
Leedom
10-29-2008, 01:00 AM
Whatever color you paint it, that car is going to be sick!
Vettezuki
10-29-2008, 01:31 AM
Whatever color you paint it, that car is going to be sick!
:iagree:
BRUTAL64
10-29-2008, 10:46 AM
Whatever color you paint it, that car is going to be sick!
I have to agree here. Just a DAMN FINE job you did. :hail:
SeanPlunk
10-29-2008, 11:57 AM
I have to agree here. Just a DAMN FINE job you did. :hail:
+1 :hail:
kameleongt
11-18-2008, 11:01 PM
not sure where your painting it but I work at a paint selling shop if you need the paint and at a good price PM me let me know what you want :)
enkeivette
11-19-2008, 02:32 AM
Few weeks too late, I've got the HOK paint sitting in my room behind me. Thanks though!
kameleongt
11-19-2008, 01:59 PM
:( well hopefully you got a great price for it :x I should have started posting here more often. GL what color did you end up going with
enkeivette
11-21-2008, 03:45 AM
:( well hopefully you got a great price for it :x I should have started posting here more often. GL what color did you end up going with
I did. I paid less at the paint shop than I would have had I bought it from TCPGlobal.
Spent about $1100 on everything. HOK Base, Pearl, Clear, PPG epoxy, SlickSand, and all of the reducers activators etc. I got about 30% off MSRP, probably 5 or 10% less expensive than TCP.
kameleongt
11-30-2008, 09:10 PM
I did. I paid less at the paint shop than I would have had I bought it from TCPGlobal.
Spent about $1100 on everything. HOK Base, Pearl, Clear, PPG epoxy, SlickSand, and all of the reducers activators etc. I got about 30% off MSRP, probably 5 or 10% less expensive than TCP.
nice if you ever need anything else let me know :)
enkeivette
12-14-2008, 03:13 AM
Skools out for winter, LSAT is done, Neon is fixed, no more excuses. Going to try and get the rough cut sanding done tomorrow. Then I'll spot prime as soon as Eric's Dad lets me come over. Then... 320 sanding, should go real quick, then... paint!!!
enkeivette
12-22-2008, 03:57 AM
Should've knocked on wood. My hours tripled as soon as school ended... holiday season.
Anyhow, had a free day today. Got the windows out, the side view mirrors off, and finished block sanding and filling with glaze (gree stuff). Trying to decide now whether I should (or have the time) to spot prime then seal, or whether I should just reprime with epoxy primer and then topcoat the same day (no more sanding).
Anyone know the benefit to shooting reduced epoxy as opposed to straight epoxy?
http://i41.tinypic.com/245ha8o.jpg
big2bird
12-23-2008, 05:36 PM
Anyone know the benefit to shooting reduced epoxy as opposed to straight epoxy?
Drying time. Reducers are especially important in cold weather. Also, a fast reducer would be better than a slow one.(Hot day)
kwplot34
12-24-2008, 12:04 AM
You are moving right along with it. I finally got all fender seams finished today and smoothed out. im going to put some sealer on then get after all that primer work :judge:
My garage is friggn mess,looks like an explosion at the flour plant,i should have done this while it was still warm out :bang:
Vettezuki
12-24-2008, 12:09 AM
Drying time. Reducers are especially important in cold weather. Also, a fast reducer would be better than a slow one.(Hot day)
By reducer do mean thinner? What's a reducer? I don't know much about paint.
kwplot34
12-24-2008, 12:32 AM
By reducer do mean thinner? What's a reducer? I don't know much about paint.
Reducer does the same thing as thinner.
Vettezuki
12-24-2008, 12:39 AM
Reducer does the same thing as thinner.
Does the same thing or IS the same thing? In other words, if I go to X and buy a thinner, am I buying a reducer? Sorry to be so semantic, but just want to know.
BRUTAL64
12-24-2008, 01:13 PM
By reducer do mean thinner? What's a reducer? I don't know much about paint.
I don't either. The only "P" word I know is primer.:smack:
kwplot34
12-25-2008, 12:42 AM
Does the same thing or IS the same thing? In other words, if I go to X and buy a thinner, am I buying a reducer? Sorry to be so semantic, but just want to know.
They do the same thing,both thin the paint. But from what i understand (and i am no pro at this) the new paints/clear/primer use the reducer. I don't think you can use thinner in place of reducer,when reducer is called for.
sorry but that is all i know about it :huh: which aint much :o
big2bird
12-25-2008, 02:45 PM
By reducer do mean thinner? What's a reducer? I don't know much about paint.
Laquer uses thinner
Enamels use reducer
They are both "thinners", but "reducer" simply means a thinner compatible with alkaloids.
Vettezuki
12-25-2008, 02:53 PM
. . .thinner compatible with alkaloids.
You mean like a battery? :smack: Got it. Thanx for the clarification.
kwplot34
12-25-2008, 06:47 PM
Thanks Bird,i knew there was a good explanation for it (read it somewhere once) but for the life of me,i could not remember :bang:
enkeivette
12-25-2008, 06:55 PM
Here's the reasoning behind the sealer (reduced epoxy primer) that I got from the autobody forums.
The primer will go on "clumpy" and the sealer will go on nice and even. Better to shoot over. So I guess shooting over a sealer will yield a more glass like appearance in the end.
Guess I've got some more sanding to do. :(
kwplot34
12-25-2008, 07:05 PM
I thought you were supposed to put the sealer on first then primer :confused:
or maybe it was sealer,primer,sealer shit,i better do some more research because thats where i'm at now with my re-paint.
enkeivette
12-25-2008, 11:04 PM
Not what I've been told, but it's not going to hurt anything.
I've been told, epoxy, the surfacer, then glaze & sand, then spot prime & sand, then seal...
I skipped the first step. I didn't see the need for an epoxy base, seeing as how I went to bare SMC & the surfacer that I used is a polyester surfacer.
big2bird
12-26-2008, 11:07 AM
Not what I've been told, but it's not going to hurt anything.
I've been told, epoxy, the surfacer, then glaze & sand, then spot prime & sand, then seal...
I skipped the first step. I didn't see the need for an epoxy base, seeing as how I went to bare SMC & the surfacer that I used is a polyester surfacer.
The largest amount of product in what you are doing is elbow grease.:smack:
kwplot34
12-26-2008, 07:34 PM
Not what I've been told, but it's not going to hurt anything.
I've been told, epoxy, the surfacer, then glaze & sand, then spot prime & sand, then seal...
I skipped the first step. I didn't see the need for an epoxy base, seeing as how I went to bare SMC & the surfacer that I used is a polyester surfacer.
Ok i think you and I are on the same wave length here but have a different terminology for the products.
Except for the GLAZE & Sand,what are you doing here :huh: i have not herd of the Glaze,can you explain what it is :o
Remember i am a NOOB at this :judge:
big2bird
12-27-2008, 08:12 AM
Ok i think you and I are on the same wave length here but have a different terminology for the products.
Except for the GLAZE & Sand,what are you doing here :huh: i have not herd of the Glaze,can you explain what it is :o
Remember i am a NOOB at this :judge:
Spot glaze is a tube of putty that requires no hardner(Aerobic). It is only good for pinholes and such. Zero strength.
kwplot34
12-27-2008, 11:09 AM
Spot glaze is a tube of putty that requires no hardner(Aerobic). It is only good for pinholes and such. Zero strength.
OK,i have that, tube called Icing,but it does require a hardener.
kameleongt
12-29-2008, 09:25 AM
OK,i have that, tube called Icing,but it does require a hardener.
im guessing he is taling about a spot putty like this
http://www.bigtownpaint.com/images/products/05960-501%20acryl%20green%20lg.jpg
enkeivette
12-29-2008, 07:27 PM
It's a 2K glaze from Evercoat.
http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/products/MetalGlaze.jpg
enkeivette
12-29-2008, 07:35 PM
Spot priming tomorrow btw. :D
big_G
12-29-2008, 07:49 PM
It's a 2K glaze from Evercoat.
http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/products/MetalGlaze.jpg
Good stuff...expensive, but good.
kwplot34
12-30-2008, 01:07 AM
Thanks for the info guy's :thumbs_up: i'm applying epoxy tomorrow,i was reading the tech sheet on it again and noticed i have 3 days to top coat it,or i have to scuff and shoot again :suicide:
Nothing like a little pressure to make things go smooth :damit:
enkeivette
12-30-2008, 04:29 PM
Spot primed. Going to buy some sanding sponges and get this bitch done. Just need to let the primer harden for 24 hours.
http://i43.tinypic.com/21opkwz.jpg
BRUTAL64
12-30-2008, 04:52 PM
Spot primed. Going to buy some sanding sponges and get this bitch done. Just need to let the primer harden for 24 hours.
http://i43.tinypic.com/21opkwz.jpg
I like it that way. That is way cool.:D
kameleongt
12-31-2008, 02:07 PM
let me know when you guys need paint supplies I can get all those putty's and sand paper bondo. . . pm me what you need and ill order the stuff for you
enkeivette
01-03-2009, 12:40 PM
The date is set. Wed, 9am Jan 7. Are you excited?
SeanPlunk
01-03-2009, 03:32 PM
The date is set. Wed, 9am Jan 7. Are you excited?
Actually,yes.
What's the plan: paint, clear, wetsand, buff?
enkeivette
01-03-2009, 06:25 PM
I wish.
The plan is, tomorrow, to finish sanding with the 320 grit. And sand the headlights and gas cap lid and rocker panels. Possibly remove trim around window. Also, sand the lights.
Tuesday, gun should arrive in the mail, I will take it out of the box and pet it for several hours.
Wednesday:
1)Drive to Resurrection Rods get the car in the booth, jack it up, remove the wheels, mask it off.
2)Straight epoxy prime door jambs and rocker panels.
3)Seal the entire car with reduced epoxy primer, and the hood, T-Tops, etc. (Allow to flash)
4)Spray the black HOK base.
(Allow to flash)
Repeat, at least once, probably twice.
5)Spray the trim and rockers black.
6)Spray the HOK pearl.
(Allow to flash)
Repeat, at least once, probably twice.
7)Spray the HOK clear.
(Allow to flash)
Repeat, at least once, probably twice.
8)Spray the rocker panels and trim with clear, over the black.
9)Use the left over clear, add candy black tint, spray the tail lights and side marker lights.
Allow to dry over night in the booth. Pick it up Thursday and begin reinstallation of everything that I removed, such as the windows and door locks, and the hood, etc.
Still haven't decided if I want to color sand. If it goes on nice and smooth, I might not. I don't want to sand the clear thin if I don't have to. I will polish and buff at least though.
big_G
01-03-2009, 06:54 PM
How many guys do you have to help you?..I'm slow..it takes me at least an hour just to mask off for paint. If you're gonna get it all done in a day you better be up before dawn....:smack:
P.S. Get 3, maybe 4 good full coats of clear and then wet-sand with 2000. Keep away from the edges and you'll be fine. If any doubts, pay someone to cut and buff. It will look so much better.
big2bird
01-03-2009, 11:37 PM
P.S. Get 3, maybe 4 good full coats of clear and then wet-sand with 2000. Keep away from the edges and you'll be fine. If any doubts, pay someone to cut and buff. It will look so much better.
G. How long should the clear harden first? A week?
big_G
01-04-2009, 12:35 PM
G. How long should the clear harden first? A week?
It depends on temperature mostly. You can wet-sand the next day. For polishing, I like to wait about 3 days. Do it too soon and you will probably get some die-back of the gloss. You can buff around the door handle, mirror and antenna areas the next day so you can start assembly.
enkeivette
01-04-2009, 12:55 PM
I will likely be giving the clear more than a week to harden. This week is zero hour for me, next week is law school. So Thursday and Friday I'll put her back together and give her a nice detail so she is driveable again. Then it's off to law school. So the cut and buff wil happen whenever I get around to it.
I don't have anyone helping me in the morning as of yet. Bill will show up at around 11am, he has a doctors apointment that morning. So I'll get this started all by myself, unless someone wants to volunteer to help mask.
big_G
01-04-2009, 02:40 PM
Be careful with the time before wet-sanding, as the clear gets much harder to wet-sand the longer you wait. You might have to get more aggressive with the sandpaper, maybe 1500. Then go to 2000. G/L with school.
kameleongt
01-06-2009, 12:38 AM
Gl with this be sure to post some pics :)
enkeivette
01-07-2009, 12:31 AM
UPS just f*cked me tonight, promised that they'd have my gun here by today...
So I asked Art, KameleonGT if he could hook me up tomorrow morning. And he lent me his Sata instead, which is actually better than the gun that I bought. He saved the day big time. Now I'm good to shoot tomorrow.
Pray for me.
SeanPlunk
01-07-2009, 09:58 AM
UPS just f*cked me tonight, promised that they'd have my gun here by today...
So I asked Art, KameleonGT if he could hook me up tomorrow morning. And he lent me his Sata instead, which is actually better than the gun that I bought. He saved the day big time. Now I'm good to shoot tomorrow.
Pray for me.
That Art is a good guy :drink:
BRUTAL64
01-07-2009, 10:07 AM
. He saved the day big time. Now I'm good to shoot tomorrow.
Pray for me.
Pray????????:smack:
You'll do fine.:drink:
kameleongt
01-07-2009, 06:10 PM
for shizzil :) im sure it will come out great :)
keithc
01-07-2009, 09:48 PM
Any pics yet??
enkeivette
01-08-2009, 12:25 AM
Well I didn't paint the car today, here's what happened. Got it in the booth, masked it all off, mixed up the sealer and sprayed it on. After the second coat I could still see sanding scratches and even some waves (after days and days of guide coat/ block sanding) I was so bummed. Almost decided to take the car home for another coat of surfacer. But, I showed the head painter at this shop, and he recommended that I just block wet sand it with 600 grit.
So, I did. I sprayed a third coat of sealer, then I spent 5 hours in the booth wetsanding (thank God my friend came to help) and I removed all of the larger sanding scratches and a lot (if not all) of the waves.
Here's my question, can I spray color right over the wetsanded (600 grit) epoxy sealer? Or will I see scratches? I was told that I would not see 320 grit scratches through the sealer and... I did! So, will 600 grit scratches show through the paint?!
I'd rather shoot right over the sanded sealer. Before 600 sanding, there was a lot of orange peel. Now there's no peel, obviously. PPG recommends that you mix 4:2:1, IMO you can use a lot more reducer than that. At the end of the night just doing burn through touch ups, I mixed it 2:1:1 and it went on much smoother. I would like to try even more reducer.
enkeivette
01-08-2009, 12:27 AM
I go back in tomorrow morning btw. After some touch up sanding and cleaning, it's color time. :afro:
big_G
01-08-2009, 07:04 AM
320 grit will show thru the sealer. We wet-sand the primer surfacer with either 500 or 600 grit prior to sealer or base-coat. Very important on metallics, not so much on solid single stage top-coats.
enkeivette
01-08-2009, 08:46 PM
I wish I had talked to you before hand. But it may have turned out for the best, had I not seen the sanding scratches I would never have wet sanded with 600 grit and gotten rid of a bunch of little waves.
So should I post pics or let you guys wonder what it looks like till I see yall this Saturday?
Vettezuki
01-08-2009, 09:13 PM
I wish I had talked to you before hand. But it may have turned out for the best, had I not seen the sanding scratches I would never have wet sanded with 600 grit and gotten rid of a bunch of little waves.
So should I post pics or let you guys wonder what it looks like till I see yall this Saturday?
Just show up with it Saturday, and post pics after. That way we can think about it till then. :)
Leedom
01-08-2009, 09:53 PM
At least give us all a taste.
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