Maggie or no Maggie???

[BADDASSC6]

one of my long term college friends bought a 2003 911 turbo. It's slower than the vette, but he is dropping some serious coin with TITAN motorsports to upgrade the turbo's.

So I'm debating getting a 122cu magnacharger or the new TVS magnacharger. The question is with ~460rwhp and stock compression, how much more power can a stock LS2 bottom end handle. I think they are good for 550-600 rwhp?

Please chime in with comments or expierence.:drink:

[Vettezuki]

To my knowledge when I was looking into this for my LS1, the stock bottom end (with just a change of rod bolts) is good for 550WHP safely, 600WHP (kinda max, pressing your luck), over 600WHP really asking for it/just a matter of time. It was a common combo to put the maggie with moderate H/C and get a relatively safe and *easy* 550WHP. Again on the lower displacement LS1. I don't know if there's any meaningful strength difference in the bottom end between the LS1 vs. LS2.

Are in you love with the torque curve of a roots/twin screw blower vs. a centrifugal setup?

[94cobra69ss396]

My buddy had a maggie on his 04 GTO and he made 515rwhp with (I think) only 8psi of boost. I'm not sure what all he did but I think he had different heads and cam. He has since installed twin turbos and put down a little over 550rwhp. The guy he bought the twins off of had an 05 GTO with the 6.0 and he made 620rwhp. He wishes he had kept the maggie.

I can call him if you want and get him to throw in his two cents. He knows a lot about this not only from building his own car but he is also an ASE certified Master Tech and worked at a Chevrolet dealer with my brother.

[SeanPlunk]

As I recall you can run 500-550rwhp with a conservative tune and probably be okay. I think anything over that and you're pushing it...

[BADDASSC6]

550rwhp would be awesome! much more than that would cause a step increase in price for the driveline components.:suicide:

[Vettezuki]

550rwhp would be awesome! much more than that would cause a step increase in price for the driveline components.:suicide:

I know this is wild guess territory, but how much power do you think your current chassis setup could handle? That is there comes a point when a car becomes so squirly with power it becomes slower from a handling point of view because the driver is crapping their pants about things going terribly wrong. Hope my question makes sense.

[BADDASSC6]

makes complete sense. I've heard a lot of hte 402 guys say that they are faster than the SC cars on hte track because the torque doesn't come on as hard and the throttle is easier to modulate.

I would b totally guessing though. Plus I would just change mu setup to adjust for it anyways. If all else fails I could ditch the toyo's and run hoosiers:D.

I've been trolling about different vette forums and it seems mid 500's at the wheels is common.:thumbs_up:. I want a 122 And I think I can pull mid 500's with very little boost. Maybe <5 psig.

To answer your previous question vettezuki, I ran centrifugal SCs on my mustang gt for a lon time and will not go back. To much pressurized piping. Intercooler hoeses comming loose clamps wearing out.:rant:. I ran procharger's P-1R and then P-1sc. IMO procharger made the best headunits and intercoolers, but the rest of the kits was very low dollar.

[Vettezuki]

. . .

To answer your previous question vettezuki, I ran centrifugal SCs on my mustang gt for a lon time and will not go back. To much pressurized piping. Intercooler hoeses comming loose clamps wearing out.:rant:. I ran procharger's P-1R and then P-1sc. IMO procharger made the best headunits and intercoolers, but the rest of the kits was very low dollar.

This is off your Radar, but I'm curious about Rotrex superchargers. They're OEM on some super exotics (e.g., Koenniggsegg). They are centrifugal, but internally they are completely different using some sort of viscous clutch setup. Apparently they are extremely efficient and spool much faster than equivalent volume gear drive units. There are no kits though.

Have you considered a Whipple or Kenne Bell (twin screw)? Probably not a big deal because you aren't trying to make absolutely maxium peak HP.

Your Vette isn't really a DD is it? Have you considered just making it a vicious 383 or 402, full solid roller and spin it hard? There's something special about a large displacement V8 up around 7k that just makes me smile inside. :)

[94cobra69ss396]

I have around 70,000 miles (well I did before the rebuild) and haven't had any of those issues with my Vortech. Although it doesn't have an intercooler or aftercooler. All of the intake tubing is still the original that came with the kit and I haven't had anything come loose.

[Leedom]

I ran procharger's P-1R and then P-1sc. IMO procharger made the best headunits and intercoolers, but the rest of the kits was very low dollar.

Good to know considering in my future there will be a D-1SC under my hood!:bigthumbsup:

[BADDASSC6]

Well, I think the Vortech/Paxton piping and ancillary equipement is nicer. The clamps that came with my procharger would bend before they clamped down hard enough to keep the 3" hoses of the end. I bought diesel truck hose clamps from a volvo/ penta dealership to fix that ($5-8 a pop).

I will admit that by the time that I walked away from the car the SC kit had many upgrades/changes.

I had less expierence then, but I will still stay clear. Leedom- honestly I think you cna go with a procharger and have no fear. If anything upgrade the metal clamps during the installation and save the heartache.

I did love the effect of the blower whine (loud as hell for prochargers) and the blow-off valve.

Vettezuki-I am also considering a forged 402 shortblock. My car is not a daily driver, but I will take the occasional weekend trip. I am leaning towards the Magnacharger because I feel it will make more power and torque for the cost. I have EPT 205 heads my understanding is that 402 like 215s or 225s. I don't think that a 402 would get me to the mid 500's.

[SeanPlunk]

Well, I think the Vortech/Paxton piping and ancillary equipement is nicer. The clamps that came with my procharger would bend before they clamped down hard enough to keep the 3" hoses of the end. I bought diesel truck hose clamps from a volvo/ penta dealership to fix that ($5-8 a pop).

I will admit that by the time that I walked away from the car the SC kit had many upgrades/changes.

I had less expierence then, but I will still stay clear. Leedom- honestly I think you cna go with a procharger and have no fear. If anything upgrade the metal clamps during the installation and save the heartache.

I did love the effect of the blower whine (loud as hell for prochargers) and the blow-off valve.

Vettezuki-I am also considering a forged 402 shortblock. My car is not a daily driver, but I will take the occasional weekend trip. I am leaning towards the Magnacharger because I feel it will make more power and torque for the cost. I have EPT 205 heads my understanding is that 402 like 215s or 225s. I don't think that a 402 would get me to the mid 500's.


I agree 100%. I think the supercharger will be the best bank for the buck.

Having said that though, for the amount of road racing you do a n/a motor would probably be better. Less heat and more linear power delivery.

Before sinking more money into your current Vette have you ever given thought to selling yours and picking up a used C6 Z06? I have seen low mileage C6 Z06's in the lower 50's/high 40's range in the last couple months. You'd have a dry sump oil system and with boltons and a tune could easily get over 500whp with excellent reliability.

[BADDASSC6]

I have thought about it. I worry that I might pick one up that's been raped more than mine. Maybe I will.:huh:

[big_G]

I'm running 18+ lbs. of boost with the D1SC and ProCharger supplied clamps and have had no hose-popping or clamp issues.

[BADDASSC6]

^^^Cool. Maybe they upgraded the clamps. I was blowing hoses every other week until I upgradedthe clamps. I was running 16psi with a P1-SC. The clamps that came with my kit were essentially big radiator hose clamps. What came with your kit? I also had this kit back in 2001.

[big_G]

Same hose clamps. I just make them tight...lol.

[BADDASSC6]

They always came apart on me when I would retorque them down. If they are the same clamps then I will stand by my previous statement that I would replace the clamps pre-installation.

[SeanPlunk]

Psst (http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searchresults.jsp?rdm=1243055311112&model=CORV&num_records=25&systime=&make2=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&start_year=2006&keywordsfyc=__WjA2__&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=090048054&keywordsrep=&engine=&certified=&body_code=0&fuel=&awsp=false&search_type=both&distance=300&marketZipError=false&search_lang=en&sownerid=586852&showZipError=y&make=CHEV&keywords_display=Z06&color=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&min_price=&drive=&default_sort=priceDESC&seller_type=b&max_mileage=30000&style_flag=1&sort_type=priceDESC&address=92807&advanced=y&end_year=2010&doors=&transmission=&max_price=55000&pager.offset=25&first_record=26) :thumbs_up:

[94cobra69ss396]

They always came apart on me when I would retorque them down. If they are the same clamps then I will stand by my previous statement that I would replace the clamps pre-installation.

Even though they are the same style clamps does mean they are the same material they use to be made of. I’ve used cheap hose clamp for radiator hoses that came loose before. Then replaced them with stainless steel ones and had no problems.

[BADDASSC6]

I replaced them with T bolt clamps.