Thinking about buying a welder. [Archive] - Motorgen - Automotive Events, Meets, Cruises and Forums

Vettezuki

07-21-2010, 10:29 PM

Cheapest option for me looks like a 120v 90 amp flux wire welder. Any objections? Will this be juicy enough to weld thick plates... like for suspension components etc.?

Like 1/4" mild steel? Fine. We'll be working on the Snake tomorrow if you want to talk to Aaron about welders. I think he did a fair bit of research before selecting his Mig.

enkeivette

07-21-2010, 10:34 PM

Like 1/4" mild steel? Fine. We'll be working on the Snake tomorrow if you want to talk to Aaron about welders. I think he did a fair bit of research before selecting his Mig.

I like the idea of having a mig better, but all of the cheap Harbor Freight migs are 240V.

Vettezuki

07-22-2010, 01:15 AM

I like the idea of having a mig better, but all of the cheap Harbor Freight migs are 240V.

Well, what's you're budget? I don't think the Lincoln Electric 120V Migs are that expensive. You might be able to pick up a slightly used one for considerably less from CL, eBay, etc. Generally when it comes to tools like this, I don't cheap out too much because they'll be used basically for life or at least a long time. Like the paint gun you bought recently.

enkeivette

07-22-2010, 02:42 AM

Well, what's you're budget? I don't think the Lincoln Electric 120V Migs are that expensive. You might be able to pick up a slightly used one for considerably less from CL, eBay, etc. Generally when it comes to tools like this, I don't cheap out too much because they'll be used basically for life or at least a long time. Like the paint gun you bought recently.

The paint gun I bought recently is to last for the next few years, just like this welder. I will be buying a Sata when I have a real job. And my garage will look a lot more like yours when the time comes too.

Vettezuki

07-22-2010, 02:50 AM

The paint gun I bought recently is to last for the next few years, just like this welder. I will be buying a Sata when I have a real job. And my garage will look a lot more like yours when the time comes too.

I'm a middle class grunt and devoted amateur at best. You can go much further over time. :drink:

In the meantime, check CI and eBay, you never know what might pop up.

enkeivette

07-22-2010, 10:54 AM

...you never know what might pop up.

That's what she said.

blackax

07-22-2010, 11:23 AM

I've always hated flux wire.....but its cheap and it gets the job done mostly. I was thinking of picking up a cheap 120v lincon for when my miller 30 is tooooo much of a pain. (miller 30 is a 200 amp 240v beast)

A 90 amp will do fine for most things. You just might have to let it cool down after a few welds.

94cobra69ss396

07-22-2010, 03:08 PM

Most 120v mig welders are only good for up to 1/8 mild steel. That's too thin for any suspension work.

enkeivette

07-22-2010, 03:40 PM

My neighbor has made some stout pieces for his Ranger with a 120v mig, I wonder what the amp rating is.

94cobra69ss396

07-22-2010, 03:53 PM

My neighbor has made some stout pieces for his Ranger with a 120v mig, I wonder what the amp rating is.

Check and see. I know that a 90amp will only do 1/8.

blackax

07-22-2010, 03:57 PM

If you turn up the heat all the way up and go slow you can do 1/4th your just gonna need to stop and let the welder cool down.

94cobra69ss396

07-22-2010, 04:11 PM

If you turn up the heat all the way up and go slow you can do 1/4th your just gonna need to stop and let the welder cool down.

Do you just turn the wire speed down a little then so that it doesn't pool up on top of the metal?

blackax

07-22-2010, 11:23 PM

Do you just turn the wire speed down a little then so that it doesn't pool up on top of the metal?

I turn down the speed and move slower

Chuck

07-22-2010, 11:28 PM

Adam,
Ill get you set up for 240 if you want just let me know.

enkeivette

07-22-2010, 11:52 PM

Adam,
Ill get you set up for 240 if you want just let me know.

I want to be able to use it anywhere, so I'm sticking with 120V. Thanks though!

enkeivette

07-23-2010, 01:42 AM

Check and see. I know that a 90amp will only do 1/8.

It's rated to 3/16.

big_G

07-23-2010, 06:38 PM

Most 120v mig welders are only good for up to 1/8 mild steel. That's too thin for any suspension work.

I vote for saving up for a good welder. I recently bought my second mig, a Millermatic 180. Cost about $750, but will last a lifetime. Does anything you can throw at it. If needed, make up a 30 foot extension cord to reach the dryer or range plug. Next option would be a Millermatic 140, which works on 120v.

Chuck

07-25-2010, 12:16 AM

Keep in mind 240v will be cheaper to run and practice with :judge:. Let me know.

blackax

07-25-2010, 12:24 AM

I vote for saving up for a good welder. I recently bought my second mig, a Millermatic 180. Cost about $750, but will last a lifetime. Does anything you can throw at it. If needed, make up a 30 foot extension cord to reach the dryer or range plug. Next option would be a Millermatic 140, which works on 120v.

I spent 70$ on my 50 ft extension, its the best accessory I every bought for my welder. I vote for a miller aswell, they will never die. My welder is older then me and still works like new.

enkeivette

08-08-2010, 11:35 PM

I went with the Harbor Freight flux wire welder. I can buy a warranty for it for $20 that will cover anything for two years. I was looking at some Lincolns and Clarkes online, but after I read the reviews for this welder I settled on it.

I read something like 50 reviews, all of which were positive. The welder lasts a long time, takes abuse and is capable of welding thick metal.

I tried it out tonight already, I'm very happy with it. I went with an autodarkening helmet primarily for the tint adjustment. The standard 10 filter isn't enough for me, I needed an 11 and all of the standard helmets I saw were 10s. The auto darken is really cool though, no feeling of being lost after you flip the helmet down.

enkeivette

08-08-2010, 11:36 PM

And the flux really isn't a big deal, you just brush it away and it looks like a MIG weld. Nothing like stick flux.

enkeivette

08-08-2010, 11:41 PM

Vettezuki

08-09-2010, 12:50 AM

I almost went with a used Craftsman, but the seller was telling me that the wire would get stuck inside. I don't want to have to dick around with anything like that. I wanted a new one, even if it is from Chicago Electric.

There's little tricks for wire getting stuck, but I'm sure you'll be fine. Haven't used a Chicago Electric but basic quality is probably not so far off from a Craftsman, but less than a Lincon etc.

enkeivette

08-10-2010, 12:01 AM

It melts metal together and makes me happy, that's all I ask of it.

94cobra69ss396

08-10-2010, 12:17 AM

When do we get to see your first test welds?

Damian

08-10-2010, 12:23 AM

I went with an autodarkening helmet primarily for the tint adjustment. The standard 10 filter isn't enough for me, I needed an 11 and all of the standard helmets I saw were 10s. The auto darken is really cool though, no feeling of being lost after you flip the helmet down.

I love the one I have. I just need a good welder to go with it.

enkeivette

08-10-2010, 12:46 AM

When do we get to see your first test welds?

I did the JB, my brothers name. I was teaching him too, the first spittle to the left is his first try, the line just to the right of it is his second try after some more direction, then he did the A for my name.

Then I welded the bolt to the corner for fun, smacked the head on the curb a few times to see if it would break off. It didn't.

The spatter I'm told is from the cheap Harbor Freight wire that came with the kit. If I use Lincoln wire with it, that shouldn't happen. The metal is about 1/8 inch thick stainless. Wire is just flux steel.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5453/080910233317.jpghttp://img97.imageshack.us/img97/5493/080910233246.jpg

I want to try upping the speed and laying a fatter weld next time. Didn't have too much time to practice, because it was getting late. Just tried it for a bit when I got home from work.

Criticism will be expected and appreciate.

enkeivette

08-10-2010, 12:47 AM

From looking at the back, does it look like I'm melting the plate enough to get good adhesion?

Vettezuki

08-10-2010, 01:10 AM

I did the JB, my brothers name. I was teaching him too, the first spittle to the left is his first try, the line just to the right of it is his second try after some more direction, then he did the A for my name.

Then I welded the bolt to the corner for fun, smacked the head on the curb a few times to see if it would break off. It didn't.

The spatter I'm told is from the cheap Harbor Freight wire that came with the kit. If I use Lincoln wire with it, that shouldn't happen. The metal is about 1/8 inch thick stainless. Wire is just flux steel.

I want to try upping the speed and laying a fatter weld next time. Didn't have too much time to practice, because it was getting late. Just tried it for a bit when I got home from work.

Criticism will be expected and appreciate.

Spatter happens. There is anti spatter spray ( a kind of of silicone spray I think), which helps.

It's a little hard to tell from the pick, but it looks like you're just laying down a bead. It's not like caulk. The idea is to work forward and back to create a kind of continuously overlapping seam of "fish scales". It takes some talent, but mostly practice. Just get a bunch of scrap and set up practice welds between plates.

enkeivette

08-10-2010, 01:26 AM

OIC, I thought to go thicker you would just add more material, but you're actually moving side to side? That's how you get the rolled dimes look? Thanks Ben.

Vettezuki

08-10-2010, 01:37 AM

OIC, I thought to go thicker you would just add more material, but you're actually moving side to side? That's how you get the rolled dimes look? Thanks Ben.

It's for strength and penetration and such good things. (Keep in mind I'm a rank amateur, this is just my basic understanding.)

Here's one of my early welds on the trailing arms of the Vette (closed up stitch welds). You can't see sooo clearly but there is a kind of overlap in the weld. It's acceptable for the purpose, but not good.

http://motorgen.com/pic/data/500/NotBad.JPG

This is what you're going for.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/images/100_3640.JPG

http://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/medium/P10100081.jpg

94cobra69ss396

08-10-2010, 08:34 AM

It's for strength and penetration and such good things. (Keep in mind I'm a rank amateur, this is just my basic understanding.)

Here's one of my early welds on the trailing arms of the Vette (closed up stitch welds). You can't see sooo clearly but there is a kind of overlap in the weld. It's acceptable for the purpose, but not good.

http://motorgen.com/pic/data/500/NotBad.JPG

This is what you're going for.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/images/100_3640.JPG

http://gallery.mtbr.com/data/mtbr/500/medium/P10100081.jpg

Those examples look like they're tig welded. A mig won't look quite that good. I use to think that my welds look decent until my brother had our friend Davi help with my dad's FJ40. His welds are perfect! But he has also been welding and fabricating since he was something like 12 and he 42 now.

enkeivette

08-10-2010, 10:09 AM

I think it would be much more difficult to go back and forth with a tig welder. When I did tig I sort of got the rolled dimes look without going back and forth, just by dabbing the rod. But what do I know.

94cobra69ss396

08-10-2010, 10:14 AM

That's what you do with tig. I've only mig welded and I do w's or e's. I'll grab some scrap tonight an lay a bead to see how mine comes out. However, I use gas so mine will have alot less splater.

enkeivette

08-10-2010, 02:45 PM

W for women and E for ecstasy?

94cobra69ss396

08-10-2010, 06:51 PM

W for women and E for ecstasy?

That would be W for woman as in only one and E for Eternity for me.

Here's a test weld for my Miller (actually Phil's) using gas.

http://www.motorgen.com/pic/data/500/100_10921.JPG

Vettezuki

08-10-2010, 06:58 PM

http://www.motorgen.com/pic/data/500/100_10921.JPG

Nice. :thumbs_up: That's what I was trying to describe.

94cobra69ss396

08-10-2010, 07:05 PM

Vettezuki

08-10-2010, 07:14 PM

It's not too bad but like you I'm an amateur. I noticed that I have to go faster than I want to get that roll of dimes look. I've never really taken the time to just practice. I should though. I think if I turn the heat and wire speed down some that I could still get good penetration but be able to go slower.

Thanks for the motivation Adam.

It's definitely a skill that requires practice. You should have a chart for metal thickness, gas type and wire speeds on your unit that you can use for a guide in different cases at least. :huh:

94cobra69ss396

08-10-2010, 07:22 PM

It's definitely a skill that requires practice. You should have a chart for metal thickness, gas type and wire speeds on your unit that you can use for a guide in different cases at least. :huh:

It does. It suggests 17.0 for the heat and a wire speed of 305 with the .030 wire I'm using. I used 17 for the heat but the chart always has too much wire speed for me so I lowered it to 270.

enkeivette

08-10-2010, 10:49 PM

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/7181/081010144749.jpg

Vettezuki

08-10-2010, 10:55 PM

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/7181/081010144749.jpg

I'm guessing that's your weld? Looks pretty damn nice for day 2. :thumbs_up:

We're gonna have a bunch of welders. Aaron and I want to get a Tig, Plasma cutter, pipe bender, cold cut saw . . . and a mill.

Eventually. :)