Has anyone else had this happen to them?

[94cobra69ss396]

I've had some little issue with the Cobra that I have been wanting to fix but haven't taken the time because I was always driving it. They were minor, like a lifter that was tapping slightly at idle and an exhaust leak. Well after running the Roval back in January I had more problems like the clutch broke. So the Cobra had been sitting until last week when I put the new clutch in.

Tonight I decided I would start fixing the other things. I decided I would start with the header gasket figuring I could knock it out in a night and be able to drive the car tomorrow. Well it didn't turn out that easy. I had to remove the TB and elbo so I could get to the header. I then found that the valve cover gasket was leaking so I went to pull it off only to find that I had to remove the upper intake to remove the valve cover. :bang:

So I pulled the upper intake and then decided since I have it this far apart I might as well pull the lower intake and install the new lifters and adjust the valves which I did. But when I started to clean the lower intake I noticed that the intake port were quite a bit smaller than the intake ports on the AFR heads. So then I started porting the lower intake until Amy came out and said that dinner was ready. So I put everything away and will finish the porting tomorrow.

Am I the only one that ends up with half the engine torn down just trying to fix an exhaust leak?

[SeanPlunk]

LOL, I certainly have nowhere near the mechanical expertise to do something like that :)

[kdracer73]

It's like fixing a leaking faucet ! " Oh ' I'll just change the washer " But the seat is bad, the shut off leaks, the hose leaks and it takes 3 trips to Home Depot and 100 bucks.:bang: It goes that way for me too ! Start some little project, and since I got that off, might as well do this too. Next thing I know, it's 11 F-N thirty and half the car is on the garage floor!!

[mdpalmer]

Am I the only one that ends up with half the engine torn down just trying to fix an exhaust leak?

Yep, been there, done that... too many times I reckon... and that's not even on my "fun" car, almost every car I worked on I have to take apart I realize a bunch of other stuff that needs to be fixed as I take more things off.

That's part of messing with a car I guess, I feel your pain man :)

[BRIAN]

Nope, not the only one.

[Vettezuki]

It's like fixing a leaking faucet ! " Oh ' I'll just change the washer " But the seat is bad, the shut off leaks, the hose leaks and it takes 3 trips to Home Depot and 100 bucks.:bang: It goes that way for me too ! Start some little project, and since I got that off, might as well do this too. Next thing I know, it's 11 F-N thirty and half the car is on the garage floor!!

Three trips? Hell, I think I've made three trips inside of an hour before. As for cars, I've done pretty good with "constraining scope". My personal time multiplier is generally about 3x. If I haven't done something before, think hard about how long it will take, it's a bout three times longer. That's an improvement from when I first started. I don't want to think about how much time I spent rebuilding the calipers on the Vette. :suicide:

[BADDASSC6]

Not since I stopped driving FORDs:thumbs_up:!

[BlacknBoostn]

^^^ lol.

[94cobra69ss396]

Not since I stopped driving FORDs:thumbs_up:!

Wait, what happened to your engine again?

[enkeivette]

My passenger side seatbelt needed to come out. To take it out I had to remove the seat. I figured, while it was out I should dye it black, so I took out both seats and both belts.

While the belts were in FL getting fixed and I couldn't drive the car I decided to pull all of the headliner out, repair the cracked pieces and dye them all black too.

Then I decided to buy and install the Mustang e-brake to clear my T-56 that I had thought about doing for awhile. So I cut up the floor, bolted it down and mended the stock cable to the Mustang cable. Which has broken twice, but I think I've got the crimping process down better now.

Then I decided to remove the center console once the e-brake cover was off and lay out the one piece fiberglass console.

Then I decided to remove the door panels and the dash because everything else was getting changes from blue to black, so might aswell do it all now.

But first I decided to do some plastic welding and gluing on my cracked dash before dying it.

After removing the dash and all of the vent tubing I realized the steering column needed to be painted black to match the interior. So off came the steering wheel and horn assembly.

Then I realized that while my guage clusters were out with the dash I should remove the clock and install my boost guage behind the cluster.

Then I decided to make some fiberglass bezels to move my speakers from the dash down to the kick panels because the carpet dash cover kills all of the high frequencies. Which involved a bit of rewiring, not just the speaker wires, but moving the wires behind the kick panels elsewhere.

Then I decided to redye my seats because they looked more gray than black. Also I almost forgot, I needed to dye my seatbelt holsters and the e-brake handle black too.

[enkeivette]

Wait, what happened to your engine again?

:nutkick::nutkick::nutkick:

[BADDASSC6]

My passenger side seatbelt needed to come out. To take it out I had to remove the seat. I figured, while it was out I should dye it black, so I took out both seats and both belts.

While the belts were in FL getting fixed and I couldn't drive the car I decided to pull all of the headliner out, repair the cracked pieces and dye them all black too.

Then I decided to buy and install the Mustang e-brake to clear my T-56 that I had thought about doing for awhile. So I cut up the floor, bolted it down and mended the stock cable to the Mustang cable. Which has broken twice, but I think I've got the crimping process down better now.

Then I decided to remove the center console once the e-brake cover was off and lay out the one piece fiberglass console.

Then I decided to remove the door panels and the dash because everything else was getting changes from blue to black, so might aswell do it all now.

But first I decided to do some plastic welding and gluing on my cracked dash before dying it.

After removing the dash and all of the vent tubing I realized the steering column needed to be painted black to match the interior. So off came the steering wheel and horn assembly.

Then I realized that while my guage clusters were out with the dash I should remove the clock and install my boost guage behind the cluster.

Then I decided to make some fiberglass bezels to move my speakers from the dash down to the kick panels because the carpet dash cover kills all of the high frequencies. Which involved a bit of rewiring, not just the speaker wires, but moving the wires behind the kick panels elsewhere.

Then I decided to redye my seats because they looked more gray than black. Also I almost forgot, I needed to dye my seatbelt holsters and the e-brake handle black too.


Wait you forgot the part about dyno tuning it so you would know how much power it made or the part about taking it to the track to see what it would run. Got to fix those things too.

[enkeivette]

Wait you forgot the part about dyno tuning it so you would know how much power it made or the part about taking it to the track to see what it would run. Got to fix those things too.

I'll dyno it, but no one else is tuning it. I already got it perfect and I don't want some hack shop screwing it up.

[BADDASSC6]

I think you did a great job tuning it. I bet most shops would not be willing to tune a SC CARB car. I was impressed when you did it. Now if you can just let your nuts hang like a man and put it on the rollers to show us the fruits of your labor.

[enkeivette]

I think you did a great job tuning it. I bet most shops would not be willing to tune a SC CARB car. I was impressed when you did it. Now if you can just let your nuts hang like a man and put it on the rollers to show us the fruits of your labor.

LOL

:drink:

I'm not in the military. I'm a sissy in grad school. My nuts are comfortable close to my body where they've been since birth.

Next free dyno day I'm there. Jeff put one together, I'm sure Ben or Sean can do it too.

[Leedom]

LOL, I certainly have nowhere near the mechanical expertise to do something like that :)

But this is how it goes for Sean...

Decides to wash the car.

Now has to do the windows and inside.

After washing and drying realizes the rims need to be cleaned and tires dressed.

Sees the exhaust tips are a little less that perfect and has to wipe them down.

remembers that we has not used the clay bar on the car in a month and does that.

Needs to wax the car since the clay bar took all that off.

After the coat of wax remembers that it is out in the elements soooooo much that he needs another layer of wax.

Since putting on 2 coats of wax realizes that the windows got some wax on them and has to clean those again.

Walks around the car and sees the lip on the front bumper and the rear valence could also use some back to black.

He then gets in the car and thinks about how much he needs to vacuum out the inside because it is "filthy"

After completing that starts to look at the car and walk around it again to see if there is anything he missed and realizes that Leedom is gonna kick his ass because we have spent way too much time cleaning a car that sees the light of day about 2 hours a week, those 2 hours are while being washed and pampered, and decides to call it quits instead of risking a beating by Leedom.

The End!

[94cobra69ss396]

Well I'm glad I tore it all down because I fixed a lot. So besides fixing the exhaust leak and lifter tap (which was driving me crazy) I also found what was causing a high idle issue I was having. What was happening is that the car would idle at between 1600-1800rpms when I pushed the clutch in when coming to a stop. It would idle there for about 1-2 seconds after I came to a complete stop and then settle back down to 1000 where the idle is set to. Well while I had everything apart I noticed that the two screws that hold the throttle plate in the TB were a little loose adn allowed the plate to move. I tightened them up and no longer have the idle issue. Now when I push in the clutch it idles at 1200 and drops to 1000 as I coming to a stop just like it is supposed to. :nana2:

[enkeivette]

Well I'm glad I tore it all down because I fixed a lot. So besides fixing the exhaust leak and lifter tap (which was driving me crazy) I also found what was causing a high idle issue I was having. What was happening is that the car would idle at between 1600-1800rpms when I pushed the clutch in when coming to a stop. It would idle there for about 1-2 seconds after I came to a complete stop and then settle back down to 1000 where the idle is set to. Well while I had everything apart I noticed that the two screws that hold the throttle plate in the TB were a little loose adn allowed the plate to move. I tightened them up and no longer have the idle issue. Now when I push in the clutch it idles at 1200 and drops to 1000 as I coming to a stop just like it is supposed to. :nana2:

Who made your bad lifters?

[Throttle Crazy]

Who made your bad lifters?
and if they were being bad, why not just put them in time out?:smack:

sorry, could'nt resist. In the automotive industry it is completely inacceptable to use the term "bad" to describe a failed part. I have to pound it in to my technicians to keep them from using the term. B.A.R and G.M both do not like it. Every repair order has to have a compaint, cause of failure, and correction. Technicians like to try to use bad as a cause of failure. Example ( performed diagnosis for right front window will not roll up. Tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found "bad" window motor.) How about " tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found window motor has an internal open circuit." The word defective can be used but you still need to describe why on a repair order. So when they do this, I tell them "if the part is bad, try putting it in time out."

[enkeivette]

and if they were being bad, why not just put them in time out?:smack:

sorry, could'nt resist. In the automotive industry it is completely inacceptable to use the term "bad" to describe a failed part. I have to pound it in to my technicians to keep them from using the term. B.A.R and G.M both do not like it. Every repair order has to have a compaint, cause of failure, and correction. Technicians like to try to use bad as a cause of failure. Example ( performed diagnosis for right front window will not roll up. Tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found "bad" window motor.) How about " tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found window motor has an internal open circuit." The word defective can be used but you still need to describe why on a repair order. So when they do this, I tell them "if the part is bad, try putting it in time out."

Sounds like corporate marketing psyschology more than sensible tech advice. Like the same reasons the cars in video games don't get fucked up when they hit a wall. The manufacturers don't want them to appear unsafe. Here, the manufacturers don't produce "bad" parts either.

But regardless, I'll rephrase my question for you. RON, who manufactured your fucked up lifter? :D Better?

P.S. My friend Mike, used to be a Mercedes Tech. When a customer told him that the car was making a "funny noise," he would tell them to come back when the noise was "hilarious." :lmfao:

[94cobra69ss396]

Who made your bad lifters?
They are the stock Ford lifters with 166,000 miles on them.

and if they were being bad, why not just put them in time out?:smack:

sorry, could'nt resist. In the automotive industry it is completely inacceptable to use the term "bad" to describe a failed part. I have to pound it in to my technicians to keep them from using the term. B.A.R and G.M both do not like it. Every repair order has to have a compaint, cause of failure, and correction. Technicians like to try to use bad as a cause of failure. Example ( performed diagnosis for right front window will not roll up. Tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found "bad" window motor.) How about " tested all powers and grounds to window motor and found window motor has an internal open circuit." The word defective can be used but you still need to describe why on a repair order. So when they do this, I tell them "if the part is bad, try putting it in time out."

Okay, my guess is the piston spring inside the lifter was beginning to fail thus causing less preload which in turn was causing the tapping noise.

[enkeivette]

They are the stock Ford lifters with 166,000 miles on them.



Okay, my guess is the piston spring inside the lifter was beginning to fail thus causing less preload which in turn was causing the tapping noise.

Who did you replace it with? I run Comps, I've heard good things about them.

[94cobra69ss396]

Who did you replace it with? I run Comps, I've heard good things about them.

New Ford lifters.

[enkeivette]

New Ford lifters.

So... Dodge lifters then? :P

[Throttle Crazy]

Sounds like corporate marketing psyschology more than sensible tech advice. Like the same reasons the cars in video games don't get fucked up when they hit a wall. The manufacturers don't want them to appear unsafe. Here, the manufacturers don't produce "bad" parts either.

But regardless, I'll rephrase my question for you. RON, who manufactured your fucked up lifter? :D Better?

P.S. My friend Mike, used to be a Mercedes Tech. When a customer told him that the car was making a "funny noise," he would tell them to come back when the noise was "hilarious." :lmfao:
LOL!
What you said about the manufacturers has merit. At GM we do not have recalls, they are campaigns. Also GM vehicles do not have firewalls because the word fire suggests that one could happen, we have bulk heads. I wonder if lawyers could have anything to do with it?:judge:
"RON, who manufactured your fucked up lifter? :D Better?"
Much better!:thumbs_up:

[Throttle Crazy]

They are the stock Ford lifters with 166,000 miles on them.



Okay, my guess is the piston spring inside the lifter was beginning to fail thus causing less preload which in turn was causing the tapping noise.

Nice! I think "fucked up" works good to!

[94cobra69ss396]

Nice! I think "fucked up" works good to!

I don't think GM would approve "fucked up" on the service order though.

[enkeivette]

I don't think GM would approve "fucked up" on the service order though.

Ford would be cool with it though, it is part of their acronym.

[94cobra69ss396]

Yes but they only use it when talking about GM and Crysler.

[enkeivette]

Yes but they only use it when talking about GM and Crysler.

Cracked
Head
Every
Valve
Rattles
Oil
Leaks
Exhaust
Too

Nope, don't see it in there. :P

[BRUTAL64]

Who did you replace it with? I run Comps, I've heard good things about them.

Comp??? Good things:sm_laughing:

[BRUTAL64]

Cracked
Head
Every
Valve
Rattles
Oil
Leaks
Exhaust
Too

Nope, don't see it in there. :P

But, that about covers it.:judge:

[enkeivette]

You don't like Comp? I've heard bad things about Crane. My Comp stuff is still going strong. One piece chromoly pushrods and the retro roller lifters.

[94cobra69ss396]

I have a crane cam in the Cobra with Crane roller rockers (stock on the Cobra) and the stock Ford lifters and a Comp cam in the Chevelle with Crower roller rockers and Chet Herbert solid roller lifters. Everyone told me not to use the Herbert lifters that they were junk but they cost less than half of what the Crane and Comp one were at the time. That was about 13 or 14 years ago.

[mdpalmer]

Cracked
Head
Every
Valve
Rattles
Oil
Leaks
Exhaust
Too

Nope, don't see it in there. :P

^^ never seen that b4. hilarious :)

[ZexGX]

The first page is exactly why I dread doing anything to my Scout. That's exactly how it goes. I'll go to replace a knob on the dashboard and next thing I know it'll have a turbodiesel and be running 11s at Fontana on 40" mud tires... and my bank account will be empty... and that knob will still be missing :(

[94cobra69ss396]

The first page is exactly why I dread doing anything to my Scout. That's exactly how it goes. I'll go to replace a knob on the dashboard and next thing I know it'll have a turbodiesel and be running 11s at Fontana on 40" mud tires... and my bank account will be empty... and that knob will still be missing :(

See but I'd at least put the knob on.