More Stuff Wrong

[BlacknBoostn]

Looks to me like at a hair over 90k it's about time to do some repairs. Getting super frustrated with this car lol.

Problems:
1)
missfire cylinder 4
Possible Cause in Order of Ease to Repair

Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Coil Pack
Injectors
Intake Manifold Gasket (Gasket seems to go bad around the #4)

2)
CEL code indicating Camshaft Position Sensor problem.
Possible Cause in Order of Ease to Repair

Poor ground connections
Actual Wiring
Actual Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor as well (some people have had luck here)

3)
Worst part of all this: Possibly Piston Rings need replacement.
Symptons: water mixed with oil coming from tailpipe? Water could be as a result of condensation, but I've never seen this much come out. Faint white/bluish smoke from tailpipe... burning oil. Not driving the car until I have confirmed the problem.

To repair:
"Me and the mad scientist are gonna have to rip apart the block and replace the piston rings you fried!"

No, seriously. If this turns out to be the case, cars gonna be taken out of commission long enough to get that repaired. Might replace other things while in there if it's an option.

On that note... anyone have a compression tester i can borrow? I'm in the lake forest area so if you live locally that would be preferred...

Kdracer and joedls I'm thinkin ur the closest to me... do either of you have one? That'll help confirm the need to pull the block apart...

[kdracer73]

I gots one !! You could swing by and pick it up. I work Lake Forest-Moulton pkwy area and live Trabuco- Los Alisos. I am at work till 5 or so. Let me know when and where you want to grab it.

[BlacknBoostn]

I gots one !! You could swing by and pick it up. I work Lake Forest-Moulton pkwy area and live Trabuco- Los Alisos. I am at work till 5 or so. Let me know when and where you want to grab it.

I hoped u might :):) I work on Oso / Marguerite and live at Bake and Trabuco... I'll have to figure it out.. i think i still have your phone number... (got it before the first meet i ever went to... beach cruise ftw!)

[kdracer73]

PM sent

[BRIAN]

Problem #1 and #3 seem to be related, possibly #2 can be too but don't know your system. Does the exhaust smell sweet? Get your hands on a cooling system pressure tester as well to help rule out BHG. Look under your oil cap for a milkshake also.

[BlacknBoostn]

Problem #1 and #3 seem to be related, possibly #2 can be too but don't know your system. Does the exhaust smell sweet? Get your hands on a cooling system pressure tester as well to help rule out BHG. Look under your oil cap for a milkshake also.

BHG?

[Vettezuki]

BHG?

Blown Head Gasket

[BADDASSC6]

This reminds me of the late 1990's when all the single turbo Poopra's were running around with wiggings clamps on there radiator hoses. I agree with Brian. I thing you have a blown head gasket. If it was the rings then you would be burning oil, but you wouldn't be getting all the water. The good thing is that a head gasket would be cheaper to fix. If it's the rings then you'll problably have to get the block honed.

On the flip side, it's a great oppurtunity to upgrade!

[BlacknBoostn]

Blown Head Gasket

ok thanks, yeah someone else mentioned that might be the issue as well... anyway to tell without taking the head off?

[enkeivette]

Catalytic converters convert NOX & Hydrocarbons into CO2 & WATER. A blown HG is not going to allow the piston to suck up enough water to notice it shooting out your tailpipe. It will burn up and steam out... gets pretty hot in there.

If you have milkshakey oil, then you have a blown HG. If you have water coming out your tailpipe, it only means that your car was made after 1974.

If your motor is burning oil, could be rings. But at 90K I doubt it. If your valvecover leaks oil onto the exhaust manifold, it could seap in through the gasket and burn out the tailpipe. Happened with my L48 motor. Does the smoke go away once it's up to operating temp?

Replace your cam sensor with a new one before you try to diagnose the misfire. Those are easy to replace.

[BlacknBoostn]

This reminds me of the late 1990's when all the single turbo Poopra's were running around with wiggings clamps on there radiator hoses. I agree with Brian. I thing you have a blown head gasket. If it was the rings then you would be burning oil, but you wouldn't be getting all the water. The good thing is that a head gasket would be cheaper to fix. If it's the rings then you'll problably have to get the block honed.

On the flip side, it's a great oppurtunity to upgrade!

thats one thing I'm afraid of. paying for a new motor isn't exhaust my cup o tea right now.

Gonna look at different possibilities tonight and tomorrow to at least address the misfire, then find out about the head gasket and order one (found 40% discounts from factory mopar parts ftw)

[BlacknBoostn]

Catalytic converters convert NOX & Hydrocarbons into CO2 & WATER. A blown HG is not going to allow the piston to suck up enough water to notice it shooting out your tailpipe. It will burn up and steam out... gets pretty hot in there.

If you have milkshakey oil, then you have a blown HG. If you have water coming out your tailpipe, it only means that your car was made after 1974.

If your motor is burning oil, could be rings. But at 90K I doubt it. If your valvecover leaks oil onto the exhaust manifold, it could seap in through the gasket and burn out the tailpipe. Happened with my L48 motor. Does the smoke go away once it's up to operating temp?

Replace your cam sensor with a new one before you try to diagnose the misfire. Those are easy to replace.

thanks for the input, i'll check the gasket and oil cap. it's oil blackened water thats coming out not clear water. pretty nasty lookin stuff.

I'll check on the operating temp, kinda don't wanna run it that long on a misfire, is that ok?? lol i really need to protect this from getting any worse.

ok... game plan is

step 1 = camshaft position sensor
step 2 = crackshaft position sensor
step 3 = wires
step 4 = coil pack
step 5 = injectors

compression test on cylinders 1-4

kdracer73, do you also have a cooling system pressure tester? im starting to have tons of hand tools but all this other stuff not yet lol.

[kdracer73]

kdracer73, do you also have a cooling system pressure tester? im starting to have tons of hand tools but all this other stuff not yet lol.

Mine is broken :smack: I am mooching one from a co-worker when I need it.

[enkeivette]

The water will be dirty, your exhaust pipes are dirty. I had two badly blown rings on a HG in my Vette. And my motor moves a lot more air than your motor, I never saw water coming out of the tailpipe. Trust me, water out the tailpipe means nothing.

Steam out the tailpipe once the motor is warm might, however.

[enkeivette]

You're noticing the water now because of the other issues, and you're paranoid about having a blown HG.

It's like hearing the hiss from the brake booster after you replace it. It was always there, people just freak out when they have a reason to.

Not saying your HG isn't blown btw.

[BlacknBoostn]

You're noticing the water now because of the other issues, and you're paranoid about having a blown HG.

It's like hearing the hiss from the brake booster after you replace it. It was always there, people just freak out when they have a reason to.

Not saying your HG isn't blown btw.

ok point taken, i'll chill till i can better diagnose it. just never seen it like that before lol i'm pretty observant about my car lol. Doin the comp test tomorrow probably the am.

[enkeivette]

ok point taken, i'll chill till i can better diagnose it. just never seen it like that before lol i'm pretty observant about my car lol. Doin the comp test tomorrow probably the am.

Should all be within 10psi, but for a newer motor like yours I'd be surprised if they were out by more than 5psi. Have someone stand on the gas as you crank it to keep the throttle open. Crank it till the guage maxes out.

[Vettezuki]

Should all be within 10psi, but for a newer motor like yours I'd be surprised if they were out by more than 5psi. Have someone stand on the gas as you crank it to keep the throttle open. Crank it till the guage maxes out.

Is it a mechanical throttle? If it's fly by wire, like most modern cars, I don't think the plate will be open all the way even if you stand on the gas.

[enkeivette]

Is it a mechanical throttle? If it's fly by wire, like most modern cars, I don't think the plate will be open all the way even if you stand on the gas.

It's a mechanical throttle. Like most modern cars.

[BlacknBoostn]

It's a mechanical throttle. Like most modern cars.

ummm.. by mechanical you mean i'd physically be able to hold the throttle cable with my finger from the bay right?

if so then yah, it's electrical. Thats one of the things i had to rewire a few months ago...

ok... results

ok ran a compression test... all cylinders were consistent w/n 5psi for each test.

cylinder 1-4 was at about 110 for 3 tests of 5-7 revolutions.

on each test it was a low or a high spike (not more than a 5 psi variance) on initial crank for only 1 or two revolutions, after that the remaining revolutions were consistent so i think those can be excused. call it 110 across the board i think.

Problem is getting a misfire code for c#4, and a camshaft position sensor code.

at this point i'm thinking my piston rings are prob. ok, and i should be more concerned about the head gasket.

input?

I don't know if this is "low" compression for my car, i'm trying to figure that out.

Enkei, pulled off the oil cap and on the cap itself there appeared to be a silver milky substance. couldn't see any of that ANYWHERE else tho, even on the metal below the cap.

U were right about the oil/water i think. happened on start up for a few minutes, then got to operating temperature and stopped smoking and dripping.

my buddy will be here a little later to help me troubleshoot.

[Vettezuki]

ummm.. by mechanical you mean i'd physically be able to hold the throttle cable with my finger from the bay right?

if so then yah, it's electrical. Thats one of the things i had to rewire a few months ago...



Yeah, thought so. Your throttle has a position sensor which is read by the computer and delivers a signal for appropriate throttle opening regardless of position. Some systems use this for traction control (throttle cut out). Mine doesn't have it it's mechanical. Pedal down means throttle open. enkei's uses a piece of bailing wire taped to a ball of rubber bands I think.


Problem is getting a misfire code for c#4, and a camshaft position sensor code.

Wonder if you simply have a bad camshaft sensor. :huh: Also, is there a learn sequence to reset it? I know on the LSx motors, there is a learn sequence at least for the crank position sensor.

[enkeivette]

Yeah, thought so. Your throttle has a position sensor which is read by the computer and delivers a signal for appropriate throttle opening regardless of position. Some systems use this for traction control (throttle cut out). Mine doesn't have it it's mechanical. Pedal down means throttle open. enkei's uses a piece of bailing wire taped to a ball of rubber bands I think.




Wonder if you simply have a bad camshaft sensor. :huh: Also, is there a learn sequence to reset it? I know on the LSx motors, there is a learn sequence at least for the crank position sensor.

Explain this to me.

http://www.ndperformance.com/how_to/srt4_cc_install/tb_cables.jpg

http://www.ndperformance.com/how_to/srt4_cc_install/base.html

And explain this to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390096845482&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=22237ffa1260a02653166ff6ffd94bac&rvr_id=&ua=WVI7&itemid=390096845482

Thank you in advance. PS. Enkei runs a flimsy Spectre mount that he bought from Autozone and modified it to be stronger than yours.



Boostn, sure you're not thinking of the throttle position sensor? Also, milkshake under the cap. No bueno. Could be condensation. But mayyybe not, what does the dipstick oil look like?

[Vettezuki]

Explain this to me.

http://www.ndperformance.com/how_to/srt4_cc_install/tb_cables.jpg

http://www.ndperformance.com/how_to/srt4_cc_install/base.html

And explain this to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390096845482&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=22237ffa1260a02653166ff6ffd94bac&rvr_id=&ua=WVI7&itemid=390096845482

Thank you in advance.

I stand corrected. That's pretty clearly a mechanical throttle linkage.

PS. Enkei runs a flimsy Spectre mount that he bought from Autozone and modified it to be stronger than yours.

Prove it. :p

[BRIAN]

Could be condensation.
That would be no bueno if it was also, oil isn't doing it's job.

[enkeivette]

Prove it. :p

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/7232/cap00769oy.png

Drilled through it and bolted it to the intake manifold to keep it from moving back, which is the problem with all aftermarket Holley carb throttle cable brackets. Solid as a rock. Actually, solid as a 5/16 bolt.

[enkeivette]

That would be no bueno if it was also, oil isn't doing it's job.

True, oil should be getting hot enough to evaporate all of the water. How long had the car been sitting? Let it get to operating temp, check it again. Also look in the radiator for oil.

[BlacknBoostn]

Explain this to me.

http://www.ndperformance.com/how_to/srt4_cc_install/tb_cables.jpg

http://www.ndperformance.com/how_to/srt4_cc_install/base.html

And explain this to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390096845482&crlp=1_263602_263622&ff4=263602_263622&viewitem=&guid=22237ffa1260a02653166ff6ffd94bac&rvr_id=&ua=WVI7&itemid=390096845482

Thank you in advance. PS. Enkei runs a flimsy Spectre mount that he bought from Autozone and modified it to be stronger than yours.



Boostn, sure you're not thinking of the throttle position sensor? Also, milkshake under the cap. No bueno. Could be condensation. But mayyybe not, what does the dipstick oil look like?

It could be the throttle position sensor, but the code I'm getting is for the camshaft position sensor. After warming up the car and checking the oil cap and dipstick again all appeared to be fine, couldn't see anything weird in my block other than maybe needing a good cleaning lol. Seafoam perhaps...

Gonna buy a camshaft position sensor and see if that solves the problem. If not then back to trouble shooting.

[enkeivette]

It could be the throttle position sensor, but the code I'm getting is for the camshaft position sensor. After warming up the car and checking the oil cap and dipstick again all appeared to be fine, couldn't see anything weird in my block other than maybe needing a good cleaning lol. Seafoam perhaps...

Gonna buy a camshaft position sensor and see if that solves the problem. If not then back to trouble shooting.

I meant the thing that you replaced before, that led you to believe your throttle was electronically actuated.

Yes, change your cam sensor.

[kdracer73]

I did some checking on the code p0340 and most common repair is the cam sensor. I also found a TSB ( TSB 18-024-04 ) for missfires. Dodge says replace the plug wire and plug and have a ECM re-calibration. Printed it but have no way to copy and paste it. Our program at the shop won't allow it. I will be doing some work at my friends shop in MV tonight , if you want to grab it on your way home.

[BlacknBoostn]

I meant the thing that you replaced before, that led you to believe your throttle was electronically actuated.

Yes, change your cam sensor.

ok, yeah ordering that particular part today.

[enkeivette]

I did some checking on the code p0340 and most common repair is the cam sensor. I also found a TSB ( TSB 18-024-04 ) for missfires. Dodge says replace the plug wire and plug and have a ECM re-calibration. Printed it but have no way to copy and paste it. Our program at the shop won't allow it. I will be doing some work at my friends shop in MV tonight , if you want to grab it on your way home.

I can believe that. A few of the plug wires were arcing in my Neon when I first got it.

[BlacknBoostn]

I did some checking on the code p0340 and most common repair is the cam sensor. I also found a TSB ( TSB 18-024-04 ) for missfires. Dodge says replace the plug wire and plug and have a ECM re-calibration. Printed it but have no way to copy and paste it. Our program at the shop won't allow it. I will be doing some work at my friends shop in MV tonight , if you want to grab it on your way home.

yeah i was doing some digging and saw that the plug wires is a common problem for that misfire too, but don't know anything about the ecm recalibration. i don't have a ride back yet today so i'll let you know haha. i need to return your compression tester as well but it's at home.. (didn't want to bring it into work). do you have a way to fax that paper? if not then i'll swing by and grab it asap.

[BlacknBoostn]

if the new cam sensor doesn't fix the misfire then i'll be getting some nice new plugs. mopar ones are more expensive then aftermarket ones anyway...

what was weird is i don't think it was misfiring the other night, only sounds bad on idle (not like a misfire tho, more like i'm running some big cams haha). on throttle (gave it just a little bit of gas to hear if anything else was happening) it sounds PERFECT. no knocking, popping, misses, fuel cut or anything.

[BRIAN]

if the new cam sensor doesn't fix the misfire then i'll be getting some nice new plugs.

There are simple procedures for testing all these components if you want to give it a shot. If you have the repair manual from Dodge or possibly the ones found at auto parts stores, they should describe what to look for when testing with a multimeter or the like. It saves having to throw parts at your car. ;)

[BlacknBoostn]

There are simple procedures for testing all these components if you want to give it a shot. If you have the repair manual from Dodge or possibly the ones found at auto parts stores, they should describe what to look for when testing with a multimeter or the like. It saves having to throw parts at your car. ;)

What's a multimeter? Never heard of it... Is it expensive?

[enkeivette]

What's a multimeter? Never heard of it... Is it expensive?

You can prob pick up one at Sears for like $10, but the nice ones are several hundred. I have one you can borrow if you're that cheap. :)

You can't test the spark plug wires with a multimeter. The wire may be intact and show normal resistance, but that doesn't mean they're not arcing. No way to test insulation with a multimeter. Have your fiance rev the motor while you look at the engine in the dark, if you see sparks, bingo.

[Vettezuki]

You can prob pick up one at Sears for like $10, but the nice ones are several hundred. I have one you can borrow if you're that cheap. :)

You can't test the spark plug wires with a multimeter. The wire may be intact and show normal resistance, but that doesn't mean they're not arcing. No way to test insulation with a multimeter. Have your fiance rev the motor while you look at the engine in the dark, if you see sparks, bingo.

Fill a water bottle with some water and a lil' bit of dish soap. While the engine is running spray a light mist over the engine. You'll see it clear as a bell if it's arcing. Why soap? Because it slows the rate of evaportion and makes the arc last a little longer. If it were just water finely misted it could be instantaneously vaporized by the discharge. Learned this from Tim or Glenn, can't remember.

This is what a multi-meter looks like. As enkei says, starts at about $10 and goes up to whatever you feel like spending.

http://rileyhamilton.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/yellow_multimeter1.gif

[BRUTAL64]

Fill a water bottle with some water and a lil' bit of dish soap. While the engine is running spray a light mist over the engine. You'll see it clear as a bell if it's arcing. Why soap? Because it slows the rate of evaportion and makes the arc last a little longer. If it were just water finely misted it could be instantaneously vaporized by the discharge. Learned this from Tim or Glenn, can't remember.

This is what a multi-meter looks like. As enkei says, starts at about $10 and goes up to whatever you feel like spending.

http://rileyhamilton.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/yellow_multimeter1.gif

You got that from Tim.

The meter shown is $2.99 on sale and about $5.99 when it's not at HB. I've got 4. Can only find 1.

[BlacknBoostn]

Fill a water bottle with some water and a lil' bit of dish soap. While the engine is running spray a light mist over the engine. You'll see it clear as a bell if it's arcing. Why soap? Because it slows the rate of evaportion and makes the arc last a little longer. If it were just water finely misted it could be instantaneously vaporized by the discharge. Learned this from Tim or Glenn, can't remember.

This is what a multi-meter looks like. As enkei says, starts at about $10 and goes up to whatever you feel like spending.

http://rileyhamilton.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/yellow_multimeter1.gif

hmmm I'll have to try that!

OK, i thought that was a volt meter i guess or something, I've seen those. Theres an electrical repair kit I'm going to pick up that has one of those with it. Anyone know where to buy crimps and 8 gauge copper insulated wire? audio grade at least (redoin the grounds)

[kdracer73]

There are simple procedures for testing all these components if you want to give it a shot. If you have the repair manual from Dodge or possibly the ones found at auto parts stores, they should describe what to look for when testing with a multimeter or the like. It saves having to throw parts at your car. ;)

I printed the diagnostic chart for P0340. It is seven pages of voltage , resistance and scan tool, W/ lab scope, specific tests. I will give this to boostn and will loan him my multi meter if he wants it.

[BlacknBoostn]

I printed the diagnostic chart for P0340. It is seven pages of voltage , resistance and scan tool, W/ lab scope, specific tests. I will give this to boostn and will loan him my multi meter if he wants it.

Thatd be great! I'll try to drop off ur tester tonight after work! :)

[enkeivette]

hmmm I'll have to try that!

OK, i thought that was a volt meter i guess or something, I've seen those. Theres an electrical repair kit I'm going to pick up that has one of those with it. Anyone know where to buy crimps and 8 gauge copper insulated wire? audio grade at least (redoin the grounds)

Home Depot, lighting wire. Any guage you want any color. Cheap and by the foot. I don't know about audio grade, but I'm pretty sure copper wire is the same as copper wire. If you want bring it over to my house and we can print out a nice MONSTER label for it and you can give me the extra money you would have spent elsewhere.

[BlacknBoostn]

Home Depot, lighting wire. Any guage you want any color. Cheap and by the foot. I don't know about audio grade, but I'm pretty sure copper wire is the same as copper wire. If you want bring it over to my house and we can print out a nice MONSTER label for it and you can give me the extra money you would have spent elsewhere.

Will that withstand engine temps?

[BlacknBoostn]

Oh and the sensor didn't fix the idle, so I'm onto coil pack and wires :)

[Vettezuki]

Oh and the sensor didn't fix the idle, so I'm onto coil pack and wires :)

Did the senor code go away? Again there may be a learn cycle you have to put it through. :huh:

[BlacknBoostn]

good news folks.. the intake manifold gasket blew out on C4. replacing asap. That explains the idling issue. low vac.

[BRIAN]

That explains the idling issue. low vac.
I think you mean too much vac, the intake sucks in air not blow out at idle ;) Too much air upset the mixture, different story with boost though.

[enkeivette]

I think you mean too much vac, the intake sucks in air not blow out at idle ;) Too much air upset the mixture, different story with boost though.

Nope, intake manifold leak would cause low vacuum. As your piston goes down it draws air in, thus vacuum (negative suction pressure). If you have a leak somewhere, there will be less negative pressure in the intake.

Boosted motors are in the vacuum unless the turbo pushes more air than the motor can suck, but this won't happen at idle. You need to be WOT, or nearly.

[enkeivette]

good news folks.. the intake manifold gasket blew out on C4. replacing asap. That explains the idling issue. low vac.

Clean off both surfaces with a 3M pad, brake clean them with a paper towel, then use gasgacinch on every mating surface including the gasket.

[enkeivette]

Will that withstand engine temps?

As well as speaker wire, sure. Don't lay it over your turbo manifold. :nuts:

[BRIAN]

Nope, intake manifold leak would cause low vacuum. As your piston goes down it draws air in, thus vacuum (negative suction pressure). If you have a leak somewhere, there will be less negative pressure in the intake.

Boosted motors are in the vacuum unless the turbo pushes more air than the motor can suck, but this won't happen at idle. You need to be WOT, or nearly.

Your completely right!!! Brain fart, my head is on many different subjects this evening. :surrender:

Just finished mocking up cameras on my car for the next cruise. Throw me one of those Monsters everyone's drinking lol.

[BRUTAL64]

Clean off both surfaces with a 3M pad, brake clean them with a paper towel, then use gasgacinch on every mating surface including the gasket.

Are you saying to use a sealer 0n the intake gasket fo the ports????:rolleyes2:

[BlacknBoostn]

Are you saying to use a sealer 0n the intake gasket fo the ports????:rolleyes2:

nothing i have supports this needing to be done... may i get some addition feedback regarding the sealer???

and whats a 3m pad? its not just a "pad" it's gotta be something specific hahaha

Enkei, the wiring will be used for grounding. so i don't know about bolting it to the turbo manifold, but it'll be bolted to the block for sure!

where would be the cheapest (this is directed at enkei) place to pick up di-electric grease??

[BlacknBoostn]

fixed. no gasket on intake port #4

[kdracer73]

Awesome !!:)

[enkeivette]

nothing i have supports this needing to be done... may i get some addition feedback regarding the sealer???

and whats a 3m pad? its not just a "pad" it's gotta be something specific hahaha

Enkei, the wiring will be used for grounding. so i don't know about bolting it to the turbo manifold, but it'll be bolted to the block for sure!

where would be the cheapest (this is directed at enkei) place to pick up di-electric grease??

Brutal, yes.

Boostn, the fact that you blew out a gasket already supports this needing to be done. Old school guys like Brutal who drive behind NA V8s and don't have to deal with boost like us don't understand. Their motors suck, ours blow. If you motor is always sucking you're not going to blow an intake gasket out, so you can put it on dry.

I did it when I replaced the intake on my friends turbo 4, per his recommendation. (He is a Mercedes tech) And it was the best thing until I discovered silicone when I kept blowing my intake gasket out after I put the blower on. You don't need to go crazy with silicone like I did because inline motor's intakes seal much better.

No you don't need it, yes it will seal better.

A 3m pad is a scotch brite pad, like the back of a dish sponge. Typical for cleaning off a deck surface, it will make your metal shiny and clean without wearing it down really.

I was joking about the wire on your turbo manifold, because you were asking about temp ratings of the wire from Home Depot.

Dialectric grease, Autozone or Kragen. It's a couple bucks, don't cry.

[BRUTAL64]

Brutal, yes.

Boostn, the fact that you blew out a gasket already supports this needing to be done. Old school guys like Brutal who drive behind NA V8s and don't have to deal with boost like us don't understand. Their motors suck, ours blow. If you motor is always sucking you're not going to blow an intake gasket out, so you can put it on dry.

I did it when I replaced the intake on my friends turbo 4, per his recommendation. (He is a Mercedes tech) And it was the best thing until I discovered silicone when I kept blowing my intake gasket out after I put the blower on. You don't need to go crazy with silicone like I did because inline motor's intakes seal much better.

No you don't need it, yes it will seal better.

A 3m pad is a scotch brite pad, like the back of a dish sponge. Typical for cleaning off a deck surface, it will make your metal shiny and clean without wearing it down really.

I was joking about the wire on your turbo manifold, because you were asking about temp ratings of the wire from Home Depot.

Dialectric grease, Autozone or Kragen. It's a couple bucks, don't cry.

I have built engines with Root type blowers. I did not use sealer on the intake port. I have gone as high as 12 lbs (if I remember correctly) without sealer. Not saying you shouldn't just as a rule we didn't use sealer.:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

[enkeivette]

I have built engines with Root type blowers. I did not use sealer on the intake port. I have gone as high as 12 lbs (if I remember correctly) without sealer. Not saying you shouldn't just as a rule we didn't use sealer.:bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup::bigthumbsup:

I'm sure as you sent those engines that you built on their merry way they drove away issue free. My engine ran for many trouble free miles. Took time to develop the leaks. And they're not very noticeable. I had at least one port leaking on DC dyno day. Never knew till I took off the intake manifold and saw it sagging into the lifter valley.

[BlacknBoostn]

well im going to be dissassembling the intake manifold to paint it along with my valvecover, ill pick up a brand new gasket and some high temp rtv sealant.

[kdracer73]

http://www.gasgacinch.com/


This stuff is sticky-tacky and will hold the gasket in place better than rtv.

[BRUTAL64]

http://www.gasgacinch.com/


This stuff is sticky-tacky and will hold the gasket in place better than rtv.

Yep, that is much better. You'll find any excess RTV will also be pulled (also be pushed out under boost) into the intake runner.

[enkeivette]

I use Mopar silicone adhesive, and spread it out paper thin over all surfaces. It doesn't push out.

But gasgacinch would work best for you, Boostn.

[BlacknBoostn]

Would I have to order that do u think?? Enkei do u know a cheap ass way of making a catch can lol

[enkeivette]

Would I have to order that do u think?? Enkei do u know a cheap ass way of making a catch can lol

No, try Napa.

Catch can?

I know a cool way to make an oil separator. Wind thin tubing in an empty plastic peanut butter jar by hand, send one end out the top, the other end stays at the bottom. Then poke another hole in the top for the outlet. Boom, cheap oil separator. Condensation finally does something for mankind.

[BlacknBoostn]

No, try Napa.

Catch can?

I know a cool way to make an oil separator. Wind thin tubing in an empty plastic peanut butter jar by hand, send one end out the top, the other end stays at the bottom. Then poke another hole in the top for the outlet. Boom, cheap oil separator. Condensation finally does something for mankind.

Lol had to ask... Where or what is napa? Frick I haven't heard of most of these places!!!

[Vettezuki]

Lol had to ask... Where or what is napa? Frick I haven't heard of most of these places!!!

NAPA Auto Parts (http://www.napaonline.com/). Probably the most professional of the auto parts stores. They tend to have older more knowledgeable sales staff, and some locations have fairly functional machine shops, etc. They tend to service auto repair shops.

[kdracer73]

Baums auto supply on Marguerite , near La Paz will most likely have it. They are across from the library

[kdracer73]

NAPA Auto Parts (http://www.napaonline.com/). Probably the most professional of the auto parts stores. They tend to have older more knowledgeable sales staff, and some locations have fairly functional machine shops, etc. They tend to service auto repair shops.

None in South OC.:laugh: Closest one is Santa Ana.

[BRIAN]

Agreed, NAPA employees for the most part know more than just working the register. At least the one I go to in Los Almitos do. They also carry a good selection of parts and fluids, if not they can get same day. I know the guys there pretty well and sometimes they go ahead and deliver to my house LOL.

[kdracer73]

I have a can for you.!! had to make a parts run at lunch. Pep Boys and Autozone didn't have it. Quigleys on Jeronimo had it. 6 bucks a can ( 4 flippin oz ! ) I will be at the shop in MV off Jeronimo tonight. You can grab it on your way home.

[enkeivette]

There's one in Brea.

[BlacknBoostn]

I have a can for you.!! had to make a parts run at lunch. Pep Boys and Autozone didn't have it. Quigleys on Jeronimo had it. 6 bucks a can ( 4 flippin oz ! ) I will be at the shop in MV off Jeronimo tonight. You can grab it on your way home.

Off today but I'm leavin to go run some errands so send me the address or directions or cross streets and name and I'll swing by!!! Got ur tester too :)

[axotlprogeny]

I don't know if you have fixed it yet, but I do know that on my buddies SRT-4, we have replaced that damn Crank position sensor 3 times since he bought it. Every time, the car runs like shit and then goes in to Limp Home mode with a Cylinder Misfire. Replacing the sensor is ridiculously easy. On a side note, I had a mid 90s Grand Cherokee with the 4.0L that had EXACTLY the same problem. I replaced that damn sensor 4 times before I sold it.

-Jon

[BlacknBoostn]

yeah its all fixed, camshaft position sensor and intake manifold gasket. the crankshaft sensor is actually cheaper and should be replaced fairly soon probably lol. I really want to get a voltmeter and check all the wiring, the plugs, coilpack, connections, grounds etc etc etc.